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cabin heat...finally gone!

LanceB

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2003
Messages
455
Location
Louisville
Corvette
1981
Well I just disconnected my heater core. I connected the two hoses together with a reducing coupler and got it on the road. There was actually COLD air coming out of the bottom vents. After all of these years of driving in crazy, outrageous, sweating h**l, I spent 15 minutes and it is all gone. I know it isn't exactly originally correct and I am sure the heater core will dry rot over time, but I will tell you to actually drive my dream car in comfort makes it all worth it. I never drive it in the winter anyway. I plan on connecting valves in the hoses to be able to turn the heater on eventually (if necessary), but for now I will drive on and even possibly talk my wife into getting back in it. :D
 
Yeah, I changed the heater core on my 79 coupe, it's a project, if I had it to do over, I would have just by-passed it since the car only saw nice weather, in the cooler fall months you get enough heat from the engine comp./exhuast to be comfortable..............
 
Adding a shutoff valve in either one of the hoses also works very well. I have a vacuum actuated valve on mine, taps into the line that supplies vacuum to the Astro Ventilation system.
 
I like the idea of a shut off valve can someone give me more details? I assume the valve goes in the eng compartment, does it matter which one of the hoses I put the valve in. I am going to replace both hoses so now would be a good time. Does the valve have to be metal or can I put a plastic one, again I assuming it would be just a manual twist to open twist to shut valve correct?
 
I like the idea of a shut off valve can someone give me more details? I assume the valve goes in the eng compartment, does it matter which one of the hoses I put the valve in. I am going to replace both hoses so now would be a good time. Does the valve have to be metal or can I put a plastic one, again I assuming it would be just a manual twist to open twist to shut valve correct?

Put it in the 5/8" hose from the intake manifold outlet to the heater core inlet; that's where the factory put it on A/C cars. :)
 
If your mind is made up to install a non automotive valve to close off the hot water flow to the heater core I would defiantly use a solid brass or stainless steel ball or gate valve. There is an alternative repair for this using automotive parts. Purchase the correct style of vacuum operated hot water shutoff valve, 10’ of vacuum hose, 1 tee and a rubber cap to plug off tee when hot water is needed to heater core. Tap into vacuum source line and install tee as per diagram. Install your new vacuum operated hot water shutoff valve down out of the way just below where the actuator for the heat riser valve is. Run new vacuum hose from tee in source vacuum line across the firewall tucking in the brackets holding electrical harness wires connecting it to the new inline hot water valve. When you need heat to the heater core simply disconnect the vacuum line from the tee and put the rubber cap on the tee. The new vacuum operated hot water valve is normally open so when vacuum is applied the valve closes.
IMO this looks a lot better then a non automotive valve in a Corvette engine compartment.

Brian
 
heater valves

Here are the heater shut-off valves I installed on my car.
 
Did mine just like Dave L. Works great for me. On cool mornings or evenings with the top down, I just open my hood and open the valves. Pretty simple.
 
Isolating the heater core did nothing for me. Still have cabin heat.
 
The C3 had a lot of heat sources so there is no 1 majic bullet to cool it off.
1 You have to fix the ac system including sealing the ducts so they do not leak
2 Make sure all the ac doors work as they are supposed to
3 Use some type of heat shielding on the floor: Nuprene, Dynomat, Reflectix, Lizard Skin, Home Made Lizard Skin...there are a bunch of products for this
4 Same thing for the firewall
5 same thing for the evaporator box
6 Exhaust wrap and ceramic headers
 

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