CAC members HELP ( rear end issues 64)

[vigman]

Please look @ my last post in the Help I need a midyear..posting.


HEEELLLLPPPPPPP!


Vig~

 

[Mikey1]

What do you need ?

I´ve ssen that you had probs putting the diff in.....

....anyhow.....I do not understand the question exactly. Please define.

 

[midyear]

If you are wondering if your 75 chunk will fit, it will. half shaft u-joints are the same, use the appropriate u-bolts/caps/straps for the side yokes you have and the driveshaft problem can be overcome with a cross joint. a cross joint is a u-joint with 2 different sizes and enables you to mate the driveshaft with the diff. go to a parts store that has catalogs as they will have to find it in the back of the catalog by checking specs on both the 64 and the 75 u-joints. the part number that comes to mind is a precision #372, but I am just guessing, so try and look it up, but if all you find are idiots behind the parts counter, try that number. BOL. Dennis

 

[JohnZ]

Yup, you need a "conversion" U-joint; the '63-'64 pinions have 17 splines and the "small" companion flange, and '65-up have a 30-spline pinion with the "large" companion flange.

Hang in there - just another "bump in the road" :duh

 

[vigman]

But here's the problem

I do not have enough room in the tunnel to spin that 4.25 inch yoke with ANY kind of margin.. and a mixed size U joint...Hmmm I'll save that for a last resort

... Here's a trick I'm working on.. my local parts guy.. and he's GOOD at this kinda stuff.. states an early 70's yoke is a fine spline 3.5 input yoke.. for Chevelle's, Nova's & big station wagons...

He will double check tomorrow and get a price.

Vig~

 

[magicv8]

My car came with the larger flange. I removed it and put in a stock flange. Check the pinion splines, they may be the same.

Use a new crush sleeve when you switch flanges.

 

[vigman]

Ok the following facts

1) the crush sleeve will not come out unless you remove the foward race.

2) According to the holy book of wisdom when you re crush the yolk.. torque it down so you need an additional 5 inch lbs to rotate the diff

(This implys that you measured it before!)

Which I did... my diff took 38 inch lbs to turn
(on the bench) So I cranked it up to 45 and there is no slop and she runs nice...

So I didn't replace the crush sleeve.. but I did replace the front seal.


Vig~

 

[magicv8]

You got it. The other way of checking is to make sure the yoke you inset goes in at least as deep as the yoke that you remove. it requires a measurement off the housing before you remove the yoke - as well as measurements on the yokes - to make sure the new one also seats as deep as the old.