can't decide between two cams. HELP!

[mvvette97]

I'm going to get one of these two. They are both Comp. Cams..........228/230 @.050 571/573 lift 112LSA PT# 54-428-11 or this one....224/228 @.050 534/537 lift 112LSA PT# 54-418-11.......... Will the smaller cam have the lope that we all like? I figured you guys have heard about all the cams out there so what do you think. I have an M6 so I don't have to worry about a stall.

 

[Mr. Lucky]

Either cam will lope nicely in a stock cube LS1. I don't know if it is a concern for you, but I don't believe the 228/230 will pass an emissions sniffer test.

 

[mvvette97]

Either cam will lope nicely in a stock cube LS1. I don't know if it is a concern for you, but I don't believe the 228/230 will pass an emissions sniffer test.

not worried about the sniffer. Can I use the stock length pushrods?

 

[Mr. Lucky]

If the base circle of the proposed cam is the same as stock, and you are retaining the stock rockers, then I don't see why you couldn't also use stock length pushrods. However, I would not keep the actual stock pushrods (or springs), as they would be the weak link in your valvetrain.

 

[mvvette97]

If the base circle of the proposed cam is the same as stock, and you are retaining the stock rockers, then I don't see why you couldn't also use stock length pushrods. However, I would not keep the actual stock pushrods (or springs), as they would be the weak link in your valvetrain.

i just called Comp and they told me I could use the stock length. He said I could even use the stock pushrods as long as I don't rev it past 6500. I have my stock rev limit so I shouldn't have to worry about that. he did say I had to use the 918 springs though.

 

[daffycats]

I just installed a 224/230 567/578 on a 114 LSA with an M6. I was having some idle issues and did not really drive until I could get it on the dyno and make the adjustments needed. The springs are a must as comp has informed you of, for the 100/200 change the pushrods to harderend. The only thing I dont like about it is the new valve train noise inside the cabin, I went with 921 spring kit for extra protection. I tried all the idle relearn stuff and none of that stuff worked for me. I think you may have some idle issues other than that you will be fine. Be ready for some increased valve chatter in the cabin. I hate that part.

 

[mvvette97]

I just installed a 224/230 567/578 on a 114 LSA with an M6. I was having some idle issues and did not really drive until I could get it on the dyno and make the adjustments needed. The springs are a must as comp has informed you of, for the 100/200 change the pushrods to harderend. The only thing I dont like about it is the new valve train noise inside the cabin, I went with 921 spring kit for extra protection. I tried all the idle relearn stuff and none of that stuff worked for me. I think you may have some idle issues other than that you will be fine. Be ready for some increased valve chatter in the cabin. I hate that part.

Yea I was told to use longer pushrods since the basecircle is smaller on the performance cam. I am going to use the comp 7.425. Everybody tells me that will take care of the chatter including Comp Cams

 

[daffycats]

Yea I was told to use longer pushrods since the basecircle is smaller on the performance cam. I am going to use the comp 7.425. Everybody tells me that will take care of the chatter including Comp Cams

I was a bit lazy about push rod lenth and checked with comp cams and a couple knowledgible engine builders about the the lenth of the pushrods and they recomended the standard 7.4. This winter gonna buy myself a pushrod lenth checker and make sure, gonna be switching to AFR 205 heads.

Are you doing the work yourself? Moving the rack isn`t to bad but working on the 4 powersteering bracket bolts and the power steering lines is a real pain in the can. It is a bit of a fight with the AC condensor in front of the radiator your gonna need somebody to help manhandle it gently to get the cam out and new cam in. Take your time and dont lose any lifters!!!!!!!

 

[mvvette97]

I was a bit lazy about push rod lenth and checked with comp cams and a couple knowledgible engine builders about the the lenth of the pushrods and they recomended the standard 7.4. This winter gonna buy myself a pushrod lenth checker and make sure, gonna be switching to AFR 205 heads.

Are you doing the work yourself? Moving the rack isn`t to bad but working on the 4 powersteering bracket bolts and the power steering lines is a real pain in the can. It is a bit of a fight with the AC condensor in front of the radiator your gonna need somebody to help manhandle it gently to get the cam out and new cam in. Take your time and dont lose any lifters!!!!!!!

well I was going to do this to my vette but I decided to cam the WS6 for now because it has an M6. And it will be alot easier to do. If it runs good I think i will get one for my vette.

 

[daffycats]

I will recomend a site for you try LS1howto.com they have some great write ups on C5 and F-Body modifications gives some great insight on what your gonna be looking at.

 

[mvvette97]

I will recomend a site for you try LS1howto.com they have some great write ups on C5 and F-Body modifications gives some great insight on what your gonna be looking at.

I'll check that out. The guys on LS1tech told me I can make some rods for holding the lifters up rather then spending 80 bucks for the tool. Some guys use wood dowells that are 5/16 but I think I will try to find some metal rods that size. I don't like the idea of putting wood in my engine

 

[daffycats]

I would watch that LS1 tech site they are a bit horse-power crazy over there. Before you know it people will tell you its okay to put a 200 shot of nitrous down a stock motor. If your looking for big power some of those guys make huge power for street use.

I used the magnet trick to hold the lifters in place. Went to ebay and grabbed some 3/8 rare earth magnets (Neohydrione,something along those lines) and cut allthread rod 3/8 to 8" lenths and put nuts and fender washers on the rods to overlap the head. Pulled up the lifter set the nut and washer done. I also used epoxy on the 3/8 allthread to make sure the magnet did not stay on the lifter when removing the rod. The lifter is not flat on the pushrod end so they came right off. I think the ebay seller I got the magnets from was sedona2 not sure though. I think the magnets costed me like 16bucks and when I was done the kids had a blast with the magnets. Good Luck