Car keeps running...

[Crimson Thunder]

What is that hard line that runs along the valve cover? It looks like the fuel line comes up from the pump, runs along the intake, and then makes a 180 degree turn into the backward installed fuel inlet.

 

[Rod75]

Please let me understand the statement choke horn ground off

On the primary side (front) of carb is where an elevated rectangular housing exists with a choke blade. Such as this: http://www.holley.com/data/types/pictures/DblPmprCarbs_IntoZOOM.jpg
Some people remove the choke horn on their Holley's for improved air flow/performance. Sometimes grinding it off. The first pic showed silhouette of this, new pic shows this could be factory, as it's real clean and smooth with bowl bent not hacked up. Link to Holley with choke horn for compare: http://www.holley.com/data/types/pictures/DblPmprCarbs_IntoZOOM.jpg

fuel inlet line facing the rear. So normally they face the front of the car? does this impede fuel flow? I will look for the filter tonight. Thanks for the help!!!!

Attached pic will show normal. Note the inline fuel gauge. Nice touch.
I see 2 disadvantages to what you have now:
1. Fuel line running along valve cover could allow excessive heating of fuel. Best to have coolest fuel possible.
2. Rubber hose joining the two. I see that as a weak link in the 'chain'. I don't use rubber hose on the pressure side of the pump. Others argue this, but I've seen too many engine fires due to this. That's MY rule.
i also see the bend in that hose as a possible restriction, and another heat soaker.
The fuel pump's in the front, carb's in the middle. Good sense to create shortest route between the two.
Some guys use braided fuel line. I see that as a better choice over plain rubber hose. But (some call it 'old-school') I like my hard steel lines.

A fellow forum member here has written a good paper on creating custom fuel line. http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/fuel & intake/How to Build a Fuel Line.pdf
Here's to Lars for teaching/sharing that!

And yet another read FYI: http://www.stl-vettes.com/65vette/fuel_line/fuel_line.htm

 

[Red73BB]

Rod,
thanks for the info, I have much to learn on this car (and in general).

If I remove the fuel intake line, if doesn't appear that I could just turn it upside down and re-install. If I did that the line would be elevated and maybe too long. I guessing that I could buy the correct part from Holley? Is that what you would suggest?

Does the fuel meter measures the pressure to keep within a certain range?

Again all help is apprecated.

Gary

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Gary,

Rod75 has given you good advice on setting up a clean looking and safe fuel inlet line. The gauge simply measures inlet pressure and does not regulate it.

For your run-on problem, I asked a question above. Does your engine have the distributor vacuum advance connected (see Rod75's pic). If so, where is the other end of the hose attached.

 

[Red73BB]

Mikey,

I'm sorry I got caught up in the Holley discussion. I need to get back to you on the vacuum line. I will check it out tonight and report back.

Gary

 

[Rod75]

Rod,
thanks for the info, I have much to learn on this car (and in general).
If I remove the fuel intake line, if doesn't appear that I could just turn it upside down and re-install. If I did that the line would be elevated and maybe too long. I guessing that I could buy the correct part from Holley? Is that what you would suggest?
Does the fuel meter measures the pressure to keep within a certain range?
Again all help is apprecated. Gary

Gary-
You could reverse the carb dual inlet fuel line, but the naked end finish would still require a rubber hose to connect. If you do, make sure it at least has a hose barb.
There's tons of selection & parts vendors for a new one.
- The vendors here on this site
- Summit, Jegs, Rockauto, Ebay, etc...
Many different end connects are made, rubber hose nipple, AN fittings, threaded flair, etc...
Measure yours also to get correct replacement.

If you do reverse it, the pump to dual inlet line will also need to be reformed/replaced. I doubt you'll find an exact replacement for this. Custom made by you would be the ticket.

The fuel gauge would show incoming pressure.
Good Luck -

 

[Red73BB]

two pix of engine

Mikey,

both picture shows that I do not have a distributor vacuum advance connection as shown in the above pictures supplied by Rod. Only two hoses leave the Holley, one goes to the PCV valve and the other goes to the vacuum distribution block ( I know, it's not the technical name)

 

[Rod75]

Gary-
Your (carb) throttle return spring (on the left side in the pic posted) doesn't look too healthy. I suggest a replacement that seats deeper in the holes. Try and find one that's longer than what you have. They shouldn't be stretched out like that.
I like the dual springs that are light enough so the throttle doesn't feel like lead. One spring is slipped over the other (2 diff diameters) so they're 2-in-1. Just gives me peace of mind in case one falters.

 

[Red73BB]

Rod, Good info

Do you know maunufacture and part number to order this spring(s)? a online reference would be fantistic

Gary

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

I see no vacuum advance, too bad somebody put a 'bling' aftermarket unit that deleted this valuable feature. Go back to post 10 by Lars and look into ignition timing and the mechanical advance curve.

 

[Red73BB]

Mikey,

Ok, I have a mechanical advance instead of a vacuum - Does this make a big difference? is the vacuum advance a better setup? or should I leave it alone? does the old saying fit "if it aint broke don't fix it" work here?

Gary

 

[Rod75]

Rod, Good info
Do you know maunufacture and part number to order this spring(s)? a online reference would be fantistic
Gary

Being this is not a stock factory app. I would measure from hole to hole with throttle closed. Head to local auto parts and have them size you up from there. I would first choose one that's about 3/4 - 1 inch shorter. You may have to try several to find one that fits the feel and duty. Try it out underhood & behind the wheel first, before driving. Make sure it CLOSES the throttle!

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Mikey,

Ok, I have a mechanical advance instead of a vacuum - Does this make a big difference? is the vacuum advance a better setup? or should I leave it alone? does the old saying fit "if it aint broke don't fix it" work here?

Gary

It's not 'broken' but the lack of vacuum advance doesn't help your dieseling problem that started this thread. Having said that some HP Corvettes came with no vacuum advance and did not suffer this problem. Try the timing suggestions given by Lars, that alone might do the trick.

 

[Crimson Thunder]

I'm in the same boat. My PO installed a Mallory Unilite without vacuum advance. Try running your initial timing at 24 and your total at 36 (thanks to Lars for this tip). You will gain better throttle response and better gas mileage with a dist with vac advance.

 

[JohnZ]

Read this to understand more about ignition timing, centrifugal and vacuum advance (and to dispel the myths and Internet misinformation on the subject):

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/timing & vacuum advance/Timing101Article.pdf

 

[Rod75]

Timing 101

A hardy 'Thanks' to JohnZ for sharing his expertise and hard work with everyone!

 

[lars]

The lack of vacuum advance will require that you run a larger throttle opening at idle to maintain idle speed, thus contributing to the run-on problem. By running a vacuum advance you will be able to close the throttle blades down quite a bit and actually produce a smoother idle with less "forced idle." You also want to make sure you have set up your secondary idle speed on that Holley and balanced the primary versus secondary idle speeds - this has a huge effect on idle and off-idle performance, as well as on the run-on issue due to transition slot exposure. You can obtain instruction on setting this up by requesting my Holley and/or BG carb setup papers. You might also want to request my timing and vacuum advance papers, which John Hinckley ("JohnZ") is a co-author on. Papers are available from me via e-mail request only (I don't post any of my papers - do not download any of my papers from Internet sources as they are obsolete and often altered). I'm in Detroit for the Woodward Dream Cruise right now, but I'll take care of all requests for tech papers once I return to the office in a week. E-mail requests to:
V8FastCars@msn.com

Lars

 

[Red73BB]

I want to thank everyone for their contribution, there are a lot of things to consider. For safety reasons I will definitely fix the spring issue ASAP. This winter I will straighting out the fuel line going to the carb.

It appears that in order to “go fast” the previous owner took short cuts and I will be fixing them. That is what happens, if you are like me when you buy a car w/o an expert with you. As long as I have this forum to set me straight, I will get there.