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Car won't start

Muttley95

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2003
Messages
18
Location
GA
Corvette
1995 White Coupe
Out of know where, without any warning signs, my Vette has been running fine, decides she doesn't want to start up the other night after dinner and I don't know why. She has a new optispark (& waterpump), new sparkplugs and wires - and the battery is fine. When I went to start her, she would turn over just fine and everything inside the car lit up like it was supposed to, but she wouldn't light. When I sprayed starter fluid into the throtle body she would fire up and then die as soon as it was all gone - acting like she wasn't getting gas. Does anybody have any ideas where I should begin looking and how to fix this problem? Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

1995 LT1
104k miles
 
Clogged fuel line or possible clogged fuel filter maybe?

There is gas in the car right?;)

Other than that, the real experts will be here soon.:confused

Jim
 
Sound's like your fuel pump died. I read some where that on c-4's you have to keep the pump covered all the time. I can't remember what damage letting the tank get low will do but I'm shure if you search C.A.C. you will find that post. Good Luck!
 
Fuel Pump

The fuel pump wants to be submerged in fuel so it can keep it's cool, not only on c-4's, but just about every newer car on the road since they all have submerged, electric, in-tank pumps that get hot when you continually run on empty.
 
No start '95

Yes, check the gas level.
And read the codes if you can. A Helms manual has lots of advice if you can follow the 'logic' of its organization and find things.
But try the easy stuff first.
PUMP DOESN’T RUN
When you turn the key to 'on' can you hear the fuel pump run?
If not, check the two fuses - or just check the fuses anyway. One is in the fuse panel just inside the passenger door at the end of the dash. It's labeled f.p.1 (I think) and is a 10amp fuse. The other is a 20 amp 'maxifuse' and is located in the 'underhood electrical center'. If either is blown and a new one blows when the ignition is turned on, the fuel pump is likely bad. If both fuses are good and the pump doesn't run, it's likely an open connection or bad pump.
If these fuses are OK and the pump isn't running, it could be the fuel pump relay (located in the relay module below the passenger side dash) or the security system (See UTD if you have a Helms manual). Unlocking a door with the key (you must put the round key in and turn it - even if the door is already open) or inserting the square key into the ignition is supposed to reset the security system so this probably isn't the no-start cause.
FUEL PRESENT AT REGULATOR
If the fuel pump runs and there's fuel and pressure at the regulator, it could be either or both of the injector fuses. I haven't been able to discover where they're located yet and have to run an errand for 'the boss'. Or either the IAC (idle air control) or EGR (exhaust gas recirculator) could be stuck open.
Or if there’s fuel present it could be the MAF or the regulator. Unplugging the MAF (easiest to try) will cause a default condition that should cause the engine to run (if the MAF is bad).
Check the fuel pressure at the regulator after turning the key on then off. Should read about 40psi. If the pressure is really low or drops fast, it's likely the regulator. A bad regulator may also leak. A bad regulator usually causes too low pressure by allowing all the fuel to go back to the tank via the return line. So if the regulator is bad, there will still be plenty of fuel – just low pressure.
NO FUEL AT REGULATOR
If the fuel pump runs when the key is on but there's no fuel, it could be the sock on the pump inlet or the fuel filter. A dirty pump sock or dirty filter will cause low pressure and flow but won’t cause the pressure to drop after the pump stops (like a bad regulator usually does). You can loosen a line to check for fuel but have a rag ready to catch it and don't start a fire.
Changing the filter is cheap but nasty and may have been done with your other maintenance.
Changing either the pump or inlet sock isn’t as bad as it sounds. Take off the gas filler lid and you can see how the inlet is fastened. The pump comes out with it. Be sure to disconnect the battery and avoid igniting the gas during fuel pump and line maintenance.
Good luck.
Seems windy but this is just the tip of the iceberg.
 
Check this

Along with the other suggestions you might want to look at this also:beer


Throttle Position Sensor

The scan tool displays throttle position in volts. The voltage should display between .23 - .59, with throttle closed and ignition “ON,” or at idle. Voltage should increase at a steady rate as throttle is moved toward Wide Open Throttle (WOT) about 4.6 volts.

The ECM has the ability to Auto-Zero the TP sensor voltage if it is between .23 and .59 volt. This means that any closed throttle voltage between .23 and .59 volt will be determined by the ECM to be 0% throttle angle, and should display 0% when the throttle is closed. A failure in the TP sensor circuit should (MY OPINION MAY NOT )set a DTC 21 or 23.

Copied from the service manual for a 93 model
 
Fuel Pump

Like everything else that goes goes wrong with finely tuned machines, it's a mystery wrapped in a enigma. Mechcanical ability is your greatest asset. Since we're all different, frustration occurs when you cause yourself more problems, that's why I love this site, you can throw it out there and someone will help, that's great.
 

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