Carburetor replacement recommendation?

[SwaveDave]

Stallion,

The idle can be adjusted to suit your particular motor setup and preference - both when the choke is on , and off. ; its a matter of preference on the auto or manual choke selection . I prefer no choke cause i need a deep drop base with my typical L88 hood w/fresh air setup . The great majority of people would most likely prefer the convenience of an automatic choke...especially if it were a daily driver and driven in varying temperature conditions thruout the entire year. However, if you use a manual choke in a certain way, you could end up saving a bit on gas mileage i suppose .

Dave

 

[resto75]

Swavedave
Is that 800 cfm carb a Qjet or a performer carb ???

 

[Stallion]

Stallion,

The idle can be adjusted to suit your particular motor setup and preference - both when the choke is on , and off. ; its a matter of preference on the auto or manual choke selection . I prefer no choke cause i need a deep drop base with my typical L88 hood w/fresh air setup . The great majority of people would most likely prefer the convenience of an automatic choke...especially if it were a daily driver and driven in varying temperature conditions thruout the entire year. However, if you use a manual choke in a certain way, you could end up saving a bit on gas mileage i suppose .

Dave

I'm not sure I understand why you want no choke at all, instead of one with just customed choke settings. Can you explain why exactly your L88 hood affects your want of a choke? I know what they look like, and the drop cowl that you're talking about, but how does that affect and tie into the choke on the carb? :confused

Thanks, Dave!!

 

[SwaveDave]

Resto,

I have the EPS800 carb which is The Performer. ITs calibrated for performance rather than economy.

Stallion,

With the deep carb drop base i have (which the air cleaner sits on once the hood is closed, cause the air filter is actually in the hood cavity)...i needed to go with either a manual choke or no choke , for clearance. With no choke , the motor purrs just fine when its first started and doesnt cut out.

 

[Stallion]

Resto,

I have the EPS800 carb which is The Performer. ITs calibrated for performance rather than economy.

Stallion,

With the deep carb drop base i have (which the air cleaner sits on once the hood is closed, cause the air filter is actually in the hood cavity)...i needed to go with either a manual choke or no choke , for clearance. With no choke , the motor purrs just fine when its first started and doesnt cut out.

Okay, I think I see. So you just didn't have any room for an automatic choke, then? You had no choice at all?

 

[SwaveDave]

I could have used a manual choke and the drop base would have cleared it...but, the auto choke would not have cleared. I decided to just take out the manual choke butterfly and associated rods in order to get a bit more air thru it .

 

[SR7D1]

It seems the Edelbrock 1901 is no longer available. I checked Summit and Jegs with no luck. They do offer the remanufactured 1901 (part # 9971) for $369. Rather high for a rebuilt carb, if you ask me.

Are the rebuilt ones from Ecklers for $265 a good product? I have heard of Ecklers but have not had any experience with their re-built carbs.

I am keeping the car stock. (for now).

71 UK Vette:
I recommend staying with a Qjet. If repairing yours is not feasible or a rebuilt/good used Qjet is not readily available ... you DO have another Qjet option. Weber/Magneti Marelli is the current licensee for Qjet and manufactures NEW ones ... Edelbrock markets the NEW Qjet that's made by Weber/Magneti Marelli. It is a true clone of the original Qjet.

Please note Edelbrock markets TWO entirely different carbs for chevys ... one is a clone of the Carter AFB carb and it is series 14xx. This is NOT a Qjet.

Your original Qjet probably flows about 750 cfm.

The series you'll be interested in for Qjet replacement is Edelbrock 19xx. These ARE clones of the Qjet. There are bascially three Qjets within the 19xx series. The 4MV flows about 750 cfm ... the M4M flows about 795 cfm ... the RPM (a hi-po version) flows about 850 cfm. The Edelbrock part number you'll probably need for direct replacement is 1901. The 1901 has a choke on it just like what came on your 1971 vette ... it is NOT an electric choke. The 1901 is aka 4MV but is pn 1901. There are other Edelbrock Qjets that do have electric choke ... the M4M pn’s 1904 and 1906 have electric chokes but their throttle linkages are newer style & different from that on your 1971 vette. Finally the RPM (hi-po 850 cfm) pn 1910 has throttle linkage like what is on your 1971 but does have an electric choke.

With ANY of these ... you may or may not need to rejet/tune.

So ... it seems if you want to stay with original style choke the 4MV 1901 is for you. But if you choose to go electric the RPM 1910 is indicated.

JACK:gap

 

[MMM]

71 UK,

This is a little late, but I recommend you rebuild or get the Q-Jet rebuilt. Throttle shaft bushing kits for Q-jets can be purchased over the net; try Jet Performance products, I know they used to sell bushings and the tools to install.
One hint, whoever installs the bushings, make sure the bushings are driven to the furtherest edge of the throttle plate bore. This means that you will have to file to fit the bushing to the bore. If you do not do this, air will bypass around the throttle plates and you will never get a good idle. I wish I could make a drawing to better explain this point. I have seen bushings incorrectly installed as often as I have seen them installed correctly.
Last but not least, not to take issue with anybody and maybe it has been dumb luck, but in the more than 150 Q-jets I have rebuilt over the last 30 years, I have only seen two that actually leaked or showed signs of leakage out of the primary jet wells. And these were both early versions that sealed the wells with brass plugs. I have never found signs of leakage in a "spun plug" carb. Epoxying the plugs will not hurt and is probably good advice. I have just never seen this to be the problem others have.
What I have seen is Holleys' leak. From about every joint on the carb. And I have seen more engine fires caused by leaking Holley carbs than with any other type of carb. Q-jets may not have the visual impression of a Holley, but in all but pure racing applications they are hard to beat.
Mike

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

This thread was dormant for over two years. Somebody just woke up? :L

 

[SR7D1]

This thread was dormant for over two years. Somebody just woke up? :L

Or somebody just bought their first Corvette. And used the search feature instead of creating a new topic.

 

[81 Corvette]

creating topics and hijacking em is half the fun.

btw, i've got a demon and like it so thats my 2 cents on the topic

 

[Larry Langley]

If you must replace your carb, here is a place that specializes in remanufactured/rebuilt OEM Carbs and alternators. I wanted to replace the non matching # Q-Jet (manufactured by Carter for Rochester stamped on the carb body in 1972) on mine after I got the car and lo and behold, this place had the carb I needed. Not cheap though - but guaranteed. The owner will call you in order to verify your model and other information about your car before he sends the carb.
www.blake.com/oemcarbs/index.htm

 

[SR7D1]

Thanks Larry!

I will check it out. I will have a busy weekend ahead.

Happy Easter Everyone!

If you must replace your carb, here is a place that specializes in remanufactured/rebuilt OEM Carbs and alternators. I wanted to replace the non matching # Q-Jet (manufactured by Carter for Rochester stamped on the carb body in 1972) on mine after I got the car and lo and behold, this place had the carb I needed. Not cheap though - but guaranteed. The owner will call you in order to verify your model and other information about your car before he sends the carb.
www.blake.com/oemcarbs/index.htm