Chances

[Havachat9]

My Airconditoner doesn't work cause its not wired. I do have a wire or two hanging around but I don't know if their for the airconditioner or what their for. Whats the chances of getting some detailed information or evn a diagram or pictures.

Cheers.

 

[6880 Mike]

Do you have the assembly instruction manual (AIM) for your year? The AIM illustrations usually show the wiring connections for options.

 

[srs244]

Do you have the assembly instruction manual (AIM) for your year? The AIM illustrations usually show the wiring connections for options.

i agree with mike, but would add if you don't have one, you need to get one. it is invaluable at the least! a good source is ebay, just look around at all the auctions to get a feel for the appropriate pricing for the one you need.

steve

 

[bmotojoe]

If you have a DC voltage tester or even a 12 volt test light you could use this for testing the connector. There should be a flat rectangle connector with two connections there. One will go to ground and that should be a black wire terminating at the bolt that is used to brace compressor to intake manifold. The other would be the switch leg from the heater control circuit. Connect the test light to the switch circuit wire and ground the other side of test light. Then slide you heater control to MAX AC and turn your fan switch to high. You may have a friend help with this so you can be near the test light. If the refrigerant level is to low the low pressure switch may not pull in the clutch coil so you may have to pull the plug that connects to that switch and make a jumper wire to bypass the switch. Just a #12 insulated wire with flat spade connectors will work. Also, I would purchase a assembly manual and electrical troubleshooting manual.
Hope this helps,
Brian

 

[Havachat9]

K, the ground is connected (black) Now I have 2 green wires coming out of a connection. 1 goes to the pressure switch, and the other goes to the heater control circuit. Does all this sound right?

Cheers.

 

[bmotojoe]

This drawing is from a 1977 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual and should be close if not the same for Early 1977 and later. If the connection your talking about is a black rubber plug type that is connected to the low pressure cutout switch. The low pressure cutout switch would be normally open (OFF) and once the pressure has gone above 32psig it closes and power then would continue to the compressor through the other green wire attaching to the compressor. There are actually two safety’s in the circuit the first being the thermostatic switch on top of the Evaporator housing and then the low pressure cutout switch. Once both of these conditions have been met and A/C controls are on you should have power to the green wire to Compressor.
Brian
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=13286101&uid=6874872&members=1

 

[Havachat9]

Thanks buddy, that was a great help......cheers

 

[Evolution1980]

Havachat9,

(Getting ahead of myself here, but...) Do you have access to R12 (Freon) over there? Over here, it's getting very hard to come by, thus quite expensive. Are you doing a retrofit to R134a? Depending how long your A/C has been out of commission, I wouldn't exactly plan on getting any cold air from the system without a recharge or retrofit. Unfortunately, one of the drawbacks to R134a is that it's a smaller molecule than R12, thus any small leaks in the current system will be even bigger leaks for R134a.

 

[bmotojoe]

One of the biggest problems with a R12 system that has been sitting idle for any period of time is moister in the system. Most manufactures recommend running you’re A/C system most of the time no matter what the climate conditions are. The discharge temp and pressure most likely will boil off any moisture in the system when the system is running.
Once you get the compressor running, I recommend installing a new accumulator and orifice tube once the system has been completely evacuated. If your changing to 134a the correct compressor oil will have to be added and 134a o-rings installed throughout your system because there not compatible with R12. After the system has been evacuated put the vacuum pump into a hold cycle and walk away. Come back in 15 minutes and check vacuum pressure. If the gauge has dropped on the suction side you have a leek and it will pull air into the system causing high head pressure and poor cooling performance. Now pressurize the discharge side 150 to 200 psig and take some liquid dish soap and put it into a spray bottle with a little water and check all connections for leeks looking for bubbles.
Now you have checked both suction and discharge sides for leeks. If everything is OK recharge the system with whatever refrigerant you’re going to use.
Brian