Changed the rotors/pads. Did I miss anything?

[Vettelt193]

Brake bleeding is NOT necessary when replacing pads, unless you crack open the hydraulic system.

HOWEVER.... periodic fluid replacement should be performed, but this is a separate issue from normal brake pad replacement. SCCA race teams don't flush the brake systems when changing the pads at Sebring, for example (no time), but when the car is back in the shop, of course they replace the fluid. Same principle applies, unless you're a "drive it til it breaks" type of owner (yes, some Corvette owners are this way).

We are talking about a street car here, with ABS. everyone I've ever talked to says force the old fluid out of the caliper through the bleeder valve so you don't mess up the ABS sensors. doing that alone would require a bleed.

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

We are talking about a street car here, with ABS. everyone I've ever talked to says force the old fluid out of the caliper through the bleeder valve so you don't mess up the ABS sensors. doing that alone would require a bleed.

Yes, you are supposed to retract the caliper pistons in that manner, but only if you're mechanically inept would you actually need to bleed the system...

The procedure is: you crack open the bleeder, compress the caliper piston and close it before you release the pressure (no air gets in that way). I apologize if I didn't make things clear the first time. I sometimes am under the assumption that I'm speaking with my peers (in the auto repair business, not the Corvette community at large), and forget that laymen don't know what I take for granted.

FYI, the ABS sensors would not be affected, as they're on the wheels (oversimplified, yes) and are NOT part of the hydraulic system. The EHCU (or EBCM as it's also referred to) is another matter entirely. It can be affected by backflushing fluid (dirt can get trapped in the wrong place, etc.).

If you really want to be anal-retentive about it, I suppose you could bleed the system, and to properly bleed the system, you'll need a Tech 1 (or Tech II) scan tool to cycle the EHCU pistons to eliminate any source of air, (commonly referred to as a "force motor test"). But that's out of the reach of the typical hobbiest, who is NOT going to drop the serious coin needed for the PROPER scan tool (Japco code readers and aftermarket scanners are not equipped for bi-directional control).

To summarize: You don't really need to bleed the system when replacing pads only, unless you really want to create more work for yourself and/or spend extra money. It's not rocket science unless you want to make it so.

 

[87blackroxi]

It depends on a number of factors (brands, etc.), but not too overly bad in the grand scheme of things.

OT: was up your way on Saturday and hafta say Channelside is a pretty cool place (was at the IMAX), food, entertainment and most important: a good cigar store .

It definately is a cool place. They always have some crazy stuff happening. I was at the IMAX last year for the first time to see The Polar Express. It's pretty wild. You also have to check out Ybor too.

As far as the brake bleeding debate, don't worry fellas, I plan on bleeding the brakes when I get a chance. And if stainless steel brake lines only are $100 and change I think I will go with them.