Help! Clicking in rear end

[gmjunkie]

I think he is possible referring to item 11 in this blow up.otfl

That would be #48 in my illustration, GM calls it a washer but it's more like a spacer!! Never seen one that was anything but steel!

 

[John Robinson]

That would be #48 in my illustration, GM calls it a washer but it's more like a spacer!! Never seen one that was anything but steel!

That was my best guess. Unlike you I have never had one apart and I hope I never do.hnoes

 

[vetteoz]

GM calls it a washer but it's more like a spacer!! Never seen one that was anything but steel!

They are often refered to as being Teflon on the other C4 Forums but the ones on my '87 were steel

You ask for a Exploded view!! !

So you obviously worked out how to replace the non replacable bearings then?

 

[gmjunkie]

They are often refered to as being Teflon on the other C4 Forums but the ones on my '87 were steel


So you obviously worked out how to replace the non replacable bearings then?

No,I removed the axle nut and then removed the caliper so I could get the rotor off to access the 3 torx bolts with PB Blaster on the bearing housing before getting under the car! I grabbed the rotor and it all fell apart!!:L:L:L

 

[TedC]

Can someone explain what actually causes the clicking noise? Is it related to the teeth on the spindle?

 

[gmjunkie]

Can someone explain what actually causes the clicking noise? Is it related to the teeth on the spindle?

Usually!
Sometimes the Axle nut just wasn't torqued enough,But usually the it's the bearing warring and loosening allowing the axle to loosen up in the hub!!

 

[JOHNNYB]

They are often refered to as being Teflon on the other C4 Forums but the ones on my '87 were steel


So are the ones on my 89 steel too? and i cant find them at any parts stores around here is that something i would get from gm dealer?

 

[geekinavette]

Hey Junk that looks awfully familiar! My LR bearing did that too...just fell apart!

Here's another thread on the infamous "klinking" sound with some good info...

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...-89-rear-wheel-clicking-accleration-help.html

Fixing this issue and new u-joints does wonders for keeping that drive train quiet.

 

[TedC]

My understanding from this very informative thread is when changing the rear wheel hubs, install a new washer (GM sourced 14076924), new seal (NAPA sourced 21953), replace the half shaft u-joints, and clean and apply anti sieze to the splines.

 

[gmjunkie]

My understanding from this very informative thread is when changing the rear wheel hubs, install a new washer (GM sourced 14076924), new seal (NAPA sourced 21953), replace the half shaft u-joints, and clean and apply anti sieze to the splines.

I've never ever changed any of the washers ever that I can remember,I've changed the spindle nut a few times because I didn't like the way it looked!!
I've never had one come back,I suppose I've changed out at least 50 or probly more in my time!!

Anti-seize,164 Ft lb and let'er rip!!

I don't beat them,But I don't cutt'em no slack either!!

 

[TedC]

Junk, Which replacement hubs do you recommend? There are the $65 hubs on ebay, NAPA sells two different units (either proforma or NAPA bearings) at either $174 or $204, and then you have the GM replacement units that are pretty expensive. Can you replace the rear hubs leaving the half shafts connected. Loosen spindle bolt, remove tire, remove brakes, and unbolt and replace hub unit?

 

[geekinavette]

Yeah there is really no reason to replace that washer/shim if you already have it...its just that some of these earlier C4s didn't even have it to begin with.

A few years ago I would say when buying bearings avoid the Chinese made units...but hell any more you can't they're ALL made in China. Definitely look for the best warranty.

 

[TedC]

Found this in another post. Not a bad deal if they are really OEM parts. Corvette Recycling - High Quallity Used Corvette Parts C4-C6
I try and stick with manufacture branded replacements or name brands, but 3 years ago installed a set of made in china rotors on another car, and they still look like new. The original rotors rusted out and had to be replaced after 2 years. The new relays I purchased from GM for the vette are stamped "made in china" in bright white paint.

 

[geekinavette]

When I had my '02 Grand Am I went through several sets of Chinese rotors...cracked within like three months. Finally found a set of US made (same brand name ironically) and had no problems with them.

Just goes to show its SO "hit and miss" any more...you just never know what you're getting! Quite frustrating indeed.

 

[joshwilson3]

That washer is a teflon coated washer. And it is recommended that you replace it if you have it apart. It is only $7 at the dealer. The washer is to keep it from clicking and is a wear item. I do believe all years had this washer. The only difference is the early years also had a seal as they had that parking brake shoe.

Also, you'll want to use a brass brush to clean the splines and put antisieze on the splines. Some recommend putting antisieze on both sides of the teflon coated washer. This helps to get rid of the clicks.

I know the torque spec for the spindle nut is 164 ft/lbs. But I see it recommended to torque it to 185 ft/lbs. I believe the book says to torque down that spindle nut with the wheel off the ground. I plan on getting that torqued with my impact wrench.

I got a WBI hub from Summit Racing. Made in the USA with F A G bearings.

www.summitracing.com/parts/WBI-513020

I couldn't break the hub bolts loose. So I got a $30 Kobalt impact wrench and had them out in just a few minutes. Also you will need a 36mm axle socket to get the spindle nut off. You can rent this at the local auto parts store.

A good article on doing the hub. Pages 77-81.

Corvette*©2010*Amos Auto Enthusiast - Amos Publishing=

 

[geekinavette]

The "washer" I got when I did mine was just a piece of stamped steel, no coating. Its really just a spacer between the spindle and the hub assembly.

 

[joshwilson3]

The "washer" I got when I did mine was just a piece of stamped steel, no coating. Its really just a spacer between the spindle and the hub assembly.

I'm sure yours had the coating on them. Mine had a coating on them just like in this pic:

 

[geekinavette]

Nope mine didn't look like that at all. They "might" have had a clear zinc coating (been a while, but they were definitely silver), but unquestionably were not teflon coated.

A zinc coating would make sense to prevent oxidation...but teflon coating really wouldn't make any sense (yeah I know that doesn't mean much :L ). Maybe that's just a zinc coating and they used various colors depending on what was available? (not uncommon)

 

[joshwilson3]

Nope mine didn't look like that at all. They "might" have had a clear zinc coating (been a while, but they were definitely silver), but unquestionably were not teflon coated.

A zinc coating would make sense to prevent oxidation...but teflon coating really wouldn't make any sense (yeah I know that doesn't mean much :L ). Maybe that's just a zinc coating and they used various colors depending on what was available? (not uncommon)

The teflon is there to keep it from clicking. They say to replace it as the teflon can wear off causing a click.

 

[geekinavette]

I really hate "they say this, they say that" comments. Who says? What's "their" reasoning? Give me a basis and/or some theory behind "their" claims. "they" are the source of SO much internet mis-information.

Here's what I think...

Yes it is there to prevent the annoying "clicking"...which is caused by the splined spindle rotating inside the matching splined hub. Originally the spindle did not tighten up against the hub well enough to prevent the spindle from slightly rotating within the hub (there is a small amount of "play" in the splines). The washer takes up the small space originally left between the spindle and hub, allowing the spindle to now pull tightly up against the hub, and preventing the spindle from rotating inside the hub when the driver changes direction (reverse to drive for example). The "clicking" sound comes from the splines between spindle and hub making contact when the spindle rotates within the hub. The large hollow drive shaft makes a very nice resonant chamber, making for a rather loud and obnoxious "klinking" sound.

The washer is not a "wear part", as there is no movement between the two parts that it sits between, and should for no reason at all ever need replacing (unless like in the case of my car it just wasn't there!). Even if say the hub nut wasn't tightened to spec, the movement between spindle and hub is SO small...it would take years to wear that washer out.

Edit: Sorry really didn't mean to come off a-hole-ish with that first comment...I just like to have REASONS for claims.