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clutch problems

chuckhinva

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 18, 2005
Messages
73
Location
Annandale, VA
Corvette
1996 LT4 Coupe
Just bought a 1996 LT 4 with 26k miles. When I test drove it, the clutch would engage right at the floor with not much travel. Then it went completely out. The dealer fixed it and everything was o.k. for the second test drive (he said they reconnected the clutch cable; there isn't one that i know of). Now the problem seems to be back. The clutch doesn't engage/disengage until right before the bottom. I was thinking maybe a hydraulic leak but the master cylinder is full and there is no sign of leakage. With only 26k miles i wouldn't think it is the pressure plate and it isn't slipping. Any thoughts? The dealer gave me a 30 day warranty on the power train but I want to know what I'm talking about before I take it in - not that I don't trust him of course. Thanks
 
If there is no problem with the clutch hydraulics and no problem with the clutch pushrods (one on the master and a second on the slave, the clutch fork or the pedal assembly, the clutch is bad.

The problem will be, because of the cost of parts and labor, getting the used car dealer to stand behind it.

As for the "clutch cable", there is no clutch cable so that dealer is blowing smoke up your you-know-what. Be careful in future discussions with them.

Good luck.
 
Just bought a 1996 LT 4 with 26k miles. When I test drove it, the clutch would engage right at the floor with not much travel. Then it went completely out. The dealer fixed it and everything was o.k. for the second test drive (he said they reconnected the clutch cable; there isn't one that i know of). Now the problem seems to be back. The clutch doesn't engage/disengage until right before the bottom. I was thinking maybe a hydraulic leak but the master cylinder is full and there is no sign of leakage. With only 26k miles i wouldn't think it is the pressure plate and it isn't slipping. Any thoughts? The dealer gave me a 30 day warranty on the power train but I want to know what I'm talking about before I take it in - not that I don't trust him of course. Thanks


The problem that you are describing sounds like it is probably a bad clutch master or slave cylinder. A bad clutch disc is usually associated with a clutch pedal engagement at the top of the clutch pedal throw, not the bottom but you never know, stranger things have happened. I would suggest to the dealer that they replace both the clutch master and slave cylinder and see how the clutch works after the replacement. Good luck with it. :)
 
The problem that you are describing sounds like it is probably a bad clutch master or slave cylinder. A bad clutch disc is usually associated with a clutch pedal engagement at the top of the clutch pedal throw, not the bottom but you never know, stranger things have happened. I would suggest to the dealer that they replace both the clutch master and slave cylinder and see how the clutch works after the replacement. Good luck with it. :)
That is not the case with all due respect i have been fitting clutches since 1978 and i own a clutch fitting centre in london uk. Watford Brake and Clutch. if as mentioned by Hib, if the parts he was refering to was all working properly then the problem will be in the pressure plate , clutch , correctly diagnosed, some times the diaphram goes weak in a spot as apposed to the whole diaphram and then the plate is depressed unevenly so the centre plate does not stop turning completely so it becomes difficult to go into 1st or reverse but in your case it sound more like its going to be the whole diaphram in the pressure plate that is at fault . If the hydraulics were faulty then if you were to sit in the car with the engine running and put the car in first gear , dont lift the clutch just sit there and wait with the pedal depressed and if the car eventualy starts to creep forward then it is hydraulic if not then it is the clutch . Also you may want to look at the pedal box and see if there is any wear on the pedal or rod it rocks backwards and forwards on just incase sometimes there can be enough wear to cause that problem the tollerances are tiny , just check just incase. Qusetion does it do this always , just when cold , or when car is hot ?
 
The problem that you are describing sounds like it is probably a bad clutch master or slave cylinder.

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No Visible leaks,Master or Slave is sucking air through the seals,probly corrosion in a cylinder barrel from setting around!:thumb

Replace the Metal/Rubber clutch line too!~!!
:thumb:thumb
The rubber deteriorates inside the line and causes all sorts of havoc!~!!
:hb

I change out about 5-6 C4 Masters,Slaves and Lines a year on Low mileage cars!~!! :D
 
you say the master cylinder is full ,(brakes?), are you referring to the reservoir for the hydraulic clutch? mine is a 92 coupe and you have to remove the ECM and bracket to get to it.
 

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