Clutch Slave?

[So Bay Vetter]

Feel the inside firewall insulation (below where the master linkage comes thru the wall) to see if it's damp with fluid. Also, if memory serves me, there is a spacer between the master and the firewall (engine side). Is that in place?

 

[Paddywhack]

Spacer is in place and not losing any fluid, replaced the master, no difference. I'll take it out today and run it for awhile, see if it self bleeds.

 

[helphos]

Take out your floor mat!

When I replaced my floormats, a few days after replacng the slave cylinder, My clutch release degraded. When I pulled the floor mat out, I noticed it had a groove in the top from the clutch pedal (actually the arm) pressing against it. By leaving the mat out, the clutch started to behave better. I plan to cut a notch in my floor mat before reinstalling it.

Maybe it will help you???
Good luck
:confused

 

[Paddywhack]

I'll give it a check! Try anything right about now!

 

[Paddywhack]

Drove it about three hours today, hi way, country roads, still have a clutch that grabs less than an inch off of the floor. Stop by local garage to B.S. awhile, told them about the situation and one of them has a buddy who owns a tranny shop....called him and his suggestion was to bleed it, bleed it again, then bleed it again!..He said he has bled these transmissions sometimes 25 times before the air bubble broke out. Is it possible????

 

[Rex S]

Never counted how many times but have spent quite a while trying to bleed it. If you know anyone with a vacuum bleeder it might help.

 

[helphos]

Bleeding the slave cylinder

I'm a little puzzled by the mechanic;s statement. The bleed valve is on the bottom, which made me decide to bench bleed, and carefully maneuver the slave into position so that there was just a minimal amount of air at the hose connector.

Gentle pumping of the clutch pedal got the air to go up the hose into the reservoir.

Now that it's on the car, I'd try to get the car facing downhill on a steep slope so the air bubble will make its way up to the hose and into the reservoir (with some gentle pumping). (Someone else suggested facing uphill, but I disagree)

Maybe he has a device that will 'grab' onto the bleeder nipple and pressure bleed it. but Why it would take 20+ times is a mystery to me.

 

[Paddywhack]

bleeder on the bottom? Maybe the '93 is different. On mine, the bleeder is on the top.

 

[G Winter]

My 90 has the bleeder on the top. Manual states to break it off after bleeding so it don't rub the body . Ya right like I'm gonna do that ,,, little body mod takes care of that.
I think the bleeder and the hose port have the same thread and size.

Glenn

 

[helphos]

Bleeder on the top or bottom

My 90 has the bleeder on the top. Manual states to break it off after bleeding so it don't rub the body . Ya right like I'm gonna do that ,,, little body mod takes care of that.
I think the bleeder and the hose port have the same thread and size.

Glenn

I think you're right about the ports. I was tempted to switch the bleeder to the other side so it would be on top. (The one I took off was configured the same way) But I left it alone, and having the hydraulic line on top meant that the small amount of air left from bench-bleeding would run up the vacuum line to the reservoir.

Which reminds me... I remember seeing someone say 'use GM clutch fluid- never use brake fluid.' I'm using Valvoline synthetic DOT3 brake fluid. Isn't that what's recommended by the ZF Doc?

 

[So Bay Vetter]

I'm using Valvoline synthetic DOT3 brake fluid. Isn't that what's recommended by the ZF Doc?

Brake fluid will eat the seals!! Get that stuff outta there! That got me to thinkin' . . . If the fluid has been sitting in an opened bottle for any length of time, and moisture has gotten to it, would that appear as a bleeding problem?