Clutch Slave?

[Paddywhack]

Hey all, I'm starting to notice if I'm at an extended red light with the clutch engaged for a few minutes, the rpm's start to drop and the car wants to go, or occasionally stall. The clutch/pp/flywheel are new or fairly new. I dont seem to be losing any fluid. I do remember once or twice before the engine rebuild, i'd go and push the clutch in, only to find no resistance..double clutched and all was well. Overdrive seems to be working just fine. Is this leading me to the slave unit? If so, I also notice a wide variety of prices out there on new slave units. Any input? ;help

 

[BADDUCK]

Usually if the clutch slave is going bad you can see fluid leakage around the unit. It sounds like you have air in your lines but could have other issues as well. Time to jack it up and check it out. When the slave goes you are looking at a tow.

 

[Rex S]

Could be either the master or slave (look for leaks first though) as both can act the same way.

 

[vetteoz]

I also notice a wide variety of prices out there on new slave units. Any input? ;help

Rockauto have some of the best pricing on parts
RockAuto Auto Parts

 

[JohnnyC]

my clutch pedal is mushy, but the reservoir is full. if i gently push the clutch pedal it goes all the way to the floor. but if i push hard and give it a little pump it acts fairly normally. i dont see any leaks. any ideas? replace master or slave?

 

[LLC5]

With a 14 year old vehicle doing both at the same is a good idea as they have both been used the same amout of time and are of the same age. If you are going to do one at a time I would start with the easiest and least expensive, which is usually the slave cylinder as long as it is external to the transmission.

 

[Paddywhack]

Yeah, took it on a quick trip to home depot two days ago, leaving the depot, pretty much lost the clutch all together, all at once the fluid came out of the sleeve and onto the header! Limped home on a bottle of convenience store DOT3. Got the new slave unit from Auto Zone..$44 plus shipping, as it is not stocked on the shelf. Will install this week.

 

[Paddywhack]

OK, I know the FSM says to remove the mounting bolts on the slave unit, rotate 45degrees and bleed....installed the new slave unit, bled it in place...still wasnt right. removed the mounting bolts, had someone push the clutch in while i held the unit at 45 degreesno air, no fluid came out...the piston moved and stayed put..tried it again, no air, no fluid, piston came to a stop on the retaining ring. At which 45 degrees angle is this supposed to be and is the pushrod supposed to stay in place? I'm all confused!

 

[Paddywhack]

Also noticed the rubber was cracked in a couple of locations on the hose and damp...so I ordered a new one....Sat down, had a beer and said WTF and ordered a new master cylinder for the clutch. Like Schrade once mentioned, when in doubt, throw the F.L.A.W. (Fully Loaded Assault Wallet) at it! Still pondering the 45 degree angle. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[G Winter]

Bleeder end up.

Glenn

 

[So Bay Vetter]

Okay, I've done both master and slave twice. Here's my take on the bleed; the tech writers for the FSM wrote that 45 degree crap after a 3 pitcher lunch at a strip club. Put the slave on a bench and fill it before you crawl under the car with it. After all is back in place and reservoir is topped , if you take several slow 3/4 strokes on the pedal, the remaining air will come up in the reservoir. Learned that from Dick Guldstrand; Damn if it dosen't work!

Three pitchers at the strip club isn't a bad idea either

 

[Paddywhack]

That sounds relatively simple. Filling the slave and master, then working the peddle, that is. The way I figured it, I have the front end of the car raised so high just to get my ample arse under it, the slave must be close to a 45 degree angle already. Will try that when the parts get here. If no luck, i'll be the one with three pitchers in the front row at the Foxy Lady!

 

[helphos]

Slave to my clutch

Where you are now, I once was; Where I am now, you will become!

Just another way of saying I had the same prollem. I filled and bled the slave on the bench, and when I installed it, it bled the rest of the air itself by pushing the clutch several times. Don't overthink the operation. Normal driving once you have your new clutch slave installed will keep it void of air. Shifting becomes a joy again.

Trivia question- does anybody know why they put a 'top hat' in the clutch reservoir?? I took it out when my clutch was leaking badly, and now that it's fixed I see no reason to put it back in. It just displaces fluid. Buy Why??
:confused

 

[sstearns2]

Where you are now, I once was; Where I am now, you will become!

Just another way of saying I had the same prollem. I filled and bled the slave on the bench, and when I installed it, it bled the rest of the air itself by pushing the clutch several times. Don't overthink the operation. Normal driving once you have your new clutch slave installed will keep it void of air. Shifting becomes a joy again.

Trivia question- does anybody know why they put a 'top hat' in the clutch reservoir?? I took it out when my clutch was leaking badly, and now that it's fixed I see no reason to put it back in. It just displaces fluid. Buy Why??
:confused

I'd say if you don't understand why something is there then put it back together the way the factory did. If you understand why it's there and can make an educated descision to not use it then that's different.

Cheers,
Scott

 

[So Bay Vetter]

Trivia question- does anybody know why they put a 'top hat' in the clutch reservoir?? I took it out when my clutch was leaking badly, and now that it's fixed I see no reason to put it back in. It just displaces fluid. Buy Why??
:confused

The "top hat" is there to keep an air pocket, and moisture from developing in the reservoir.

BE SURE!!! to use clutch fluid!!! Brake fluid will eat up seals in both master and slave hb

 

[Paddywhack]

OK, any tricks to getting to the connection of the master cylinder to the pedal? Like I said before, I'm dang near 6' 6" and 400 lbs (conservative estimate). I tried every position possible, and then some that probably should be in that karma sutra thing, to get to that connection..no freakin way!...Any tricks or shortcuts would be appreciated!

 

[So Bay Vetter]

I've done it 3 times and it still takes me at least half an hour to get the clip back on. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the driver's side hush panel. You have to sit down by the frame rail and look up at the pedal connection. I've used an exrta long set of needle nose pliers to hold the clip while putting it in place. I've also used needle nosed vice grips. It doesn't matter; the damn clip pops out either way but, eventually, it pops right on and you wonder WTF!!why the hell did it take this long!??

 

[Paddywhack]

"It doesn't matter; the damn clip pops out either way but, eventually, it pops right on and you wonder WTF!!why the hell did it take this long!?? "

Exactly what happened...comming apart and going back together...a dozen tries and nothing but sweat and swears...13th try and pop there it goes!
Thanks!...Now back to bleeding

 

[Paddywhack]

how much travel should be in the slave unit? Ive bled and bled, and the best I can get is a clutch that grabs with the pedal barely off the floor. I noticed with the new slave and old master cylinder, it took three pumps of the pedal to max out the slave. Havent checked the travel with the new master now in, but I bet it hasnt changed. Possibly bad slave off of the shelf? Thanks

 

[helphos]

Slave travel

I bench bled my slave, but even if you dont, it should bleed itself because its at the lowest part of the system, and numerous pumps of the clutch should make any air travel up to the master, where it will go into the reservoir.

When I put the slave in, it solved my clutch problems immediately. If there's something wrong with your slave, I would think it would be leaking.
Could your master cylinder be at fault???