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Cold Oil.................Something To Think About

Joined
Mar 9, 2009
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Location
Yemen
Have you ever put a quart of 10W30 oil into your freezer all night then tried to pour it the next morning? The full synthetic oils will pour a lot faster than the conventional oils but nowhere near as fast as oil at full operating temperature. I always drive my cars at least 30 minutes prior to giving them a heavy throttle to give the oil time to get thinner and circulate easier.
 
Have you ever put a quart of 10W30 oil into your freezer all night then tried to pour it the next morning? The full synthetic oils will pour a lot faster than the conventional oils but nowhere near as fast as oil at full operating temperature. I always drive my cars at least 30 minutes prior to giving them a heavy throttle to give the oil time to get thinner and circulate easier.
"Engine warm up"
Now theres a concept!

And how much of that cold oil do you think gets filtered?

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Only Get Lubed During 180 Degrees Of 360 Degree Rotation

As the rod bearings in a C3 only get lubed during 180 degrees of the crankshaft's 360 degree rotation I have always been leery of winding an engine up when it's oil is cold. So I put at least 30 minutes of driving time on my engines before running them hard. It just makes sense to wait until the oil thins enough to circulate easier.
 
Have you ever put a quart of 10W30 oil into your freezer all night then tried to pour it the next morning?

You guys in Saudi Arabia sure do weird stuff.

Us normal people put the oil in the crankcase, start and run the engines even in the dead of winter and then overhaul them every few hundred thousand miles, as required.

Fridges are for beer, freezers are for ice cream.
 
Oil Temperature

I have often read it takes at least 20 miles to bring oil up to a full operating temperature. The coolant temperature gets to full operating temperature in about half the time as the oil does so you can't rely on the coolant temperature to tell you when you can beat on your engine..
 
More useless information!!!!
What dumb ideas

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It's recommended to drive a minimum of 10 miles every time one starts an engine. By then the engine temperature has equalized and any combustion gases from blow-by during start up are burned off. And when you shut the engine off the exhaust system is hot enough to evaporate left over water.

Someone here said that they won't go full throttle until the engine oil temp is past 150deg, not a bad school of thought!

There is a reason they make muliviscosity oil, the colder the temp the lower the viscosity.
But TBTR knew that

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I'm running a centrifugal supercharger and the advice is let it reach operating temperature before applying heavy foot to light peddle.
As I have followed that rule with naturally aspirated, turbocharged, and supercharged engines since the 1960s; I didn't see any reason to change with a centrifugal.
 
0W40 Synthetic Oil

I have recently noticed the 0W40 synthetic oils are getting very popular for obvious reasons; having the ability to flow at low temperatures as well as providing added protection at operating temperatures. I may buy some the next time I stock up. I have been buying "Parts Master" 10W30 synthetic oil from my local parts store/machine shop for the last several years and so far have no complaints with it. It's made by Ashland just as Valvoline is so it might be the same oil but packaged under a different name.
 
Have you ever put a quart of 10W30 oil into your freezer all night then tried to pour it the next morning? The full synthetic oils will pour a lot faster than the conventional oils but nowhere near as fast as oil at full operating temperature. I always drive my cars at least 30 minutes prior to giving them a heavy throttle to give the oil time to get thinner and circulate easier.




Why don't you just put your whole car in the freezer and see if it starts the next morning?
 
Ice Cold 30 Weight Oil

If you want to see something amazing put a quart of conventional 30 weight oil into your freezer all night then TRY to pour it the next morning. It'll pour out like honey because it's so darned thick. Now imagine revving an ice cold engine on a frosty winter morning. After seeing how poorly cold 30 weight oil pours you can certainly understand why the multi-viscosity oils were invented many years ago.
 
If you want to see something amazing put a quart of conventional 30 weight oil into your freezer all night then TRY to pour it the next morning. It'll pour out like honey because it's so darned thick. Now imagine revving an ice cold engine on a frosty winter morning. After seeing how poorly cold 30 weight oil pours you can certainly understand why the multi-viscosity oils were invented many years ago.
Its again obvious that you don't understand oil classifications

Without the W it's not going to pour when cold

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Ice Cold 30 Weight Oil

After seeing how ice cold 30 weight oil flows it's easy to understand why most engine wear occurs in the first few minutes of operation. For engines operating in severe winter conditions it's recommended they use a block and oil pan heater to aid starting and reduce wear.
 
AGAIN!!!
YOU DON'T USE STRAIGHT 30 WEIGHT IN COLD CLIMATES...........



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After seeing how ice cold 30 weight oil flows it's easy to understand why most engine wear occurs in the first few minutes of operation. For engines operating in severe winter conditions it's recommended they use a block and oil pan heater to aid starting and reduce wear.
"Most engine wear occurs in the first few minutes of operation"
In EVERY engine EVER made anywhere in the history of the world

And dumb-asses who use the wrong oil expedite that process!

I'd be willing to bet that our northern members can fill us in a whole lot better

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Why don't you just put your whole car in the freezer and see if it starts the next morning?

Essentially, that's life up here in the winter. It's not unusual to see overnight temps of -30*C/22 below F or colder. Given a fresh battery we expect our cars to crank and fire up not much differently than if it was a hot day in summer.

Our lost in the desert friend TBTR seems to be discovering things just now that the rest of the world has known for at least 40 years.
 
120 Volt Block Heaters

As the morning lows in my area often hit the teens during the winter I have considered installing a 120-volt block heater. But as I'm on generator power it would be difficult to use one because of how long ahead of time I would have to start my generator to get my engine warm enough for it's heater to work. And then there's the matter of dealing with the electrical connection to the block heater.

I'm toying with the idea of switching to a 0W30 synthetic oil to further help the flow of ice cold oil. A lot of people are now using 0W40 synthetic oils because of their ability to flow under really cold conditions as well as protecting their engines under really hot conditions.
 
Here is a chart for the non-engineers
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Early Multi-Grade Oils

I can remember a time in which the multi-grade oils had problems like absorbing water and returning to their base weight in a fairly short time. But that was in the early 70's and since then oils have improved a lot. I can foresee a day in which the conventional straight grade oils become obsolete as the multi-grade synthetics are so much better and getting cheaper with each passing year. I have noticed the 0W40 synthetics have become extremely popular as they flow so well in bitter cold weather and protect so well in brutally hot weather. I'm gong to buy a couple of cases the next time I buy oil and see how well it performs. But rather than 0W40 I'll try 0W30 because I feel a 40 weight oil is a bit too thick for the temperatures I drive in. The thicker an oil is the harder it is to scrape off the cylinder walls so oil can be TOO thick. If I lived in certain areas of California, Arizona, or Texas I would use the heavier 0W40.

Did you know the NASCAR engines use 0W5 oils? Something I wasn't aware of until just recently when I read several technical articles on NASCAR engines. I suspect the reason is those engines never see low rpm lugging conditions but rather 8000+ rpm conditions in which thinner oil is needed to greatly reduce frictional drag.
 

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