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- #141
Construction equipment width
- Thread starter 67HEAVEN
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- #142
Thanks Jim,
I've been turning this over in my head and I think I'm going to make use of your suggestion.
When I excavate about 12" deep for the driveway (approximately 8' wide x 170' long or about 50 cu.yd. :eek) I'll have an awful lot of soil to haul away. Why not do what you suggested and use it for a berm.
I'll take the flood photos to the farmer and explain to him why I want to do some work on his property.
Thanks, Bob. The berm will only redirect the flow. Make sure you don't send it to your basement!
bossvette
Gone but not forgotten
Bob here is a view of the inlet side of the 8" tiles that run thru my property, when the pond was dug they leveled/raised the front property about a foot or so.
you can see where the kid my Wife let live here last fall drove over them when he moved out :eyerole
here is the exit behind the pond, you can see how the ground slopes to run off to a creek about 1/4 mile away
the water has backed up as far as about 6" up the walkout door; thank God for RTV
you can see where the kid my Wife let live here last fall drove over them when he moved out :eyerole
here is the exit behind the pond, you can see how the ground slopes to run off to a creek about 1/4 mile away
the water has backed up as far as about 6" up the walkout door; thank God for RTV
- Thread starter
- #145
Craig,
What is RTV?
What is RTV?
Rowdy1
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Be Prepared
Soil will wash away and a berm will only redirect the water. A precast basin or two properly placed with plastic smooth wall pipe will keep the water underground. Scenario, you get rain/snow, it starts to melt/thaw, you get a cold snap, what happens to the water above the ground? Hint, it makes the stuff we use to put in a mixed drink and you Canuck's skate on with sticks and a puck. I do drainage all the time to reduce flooding, water damage, mud, ice and erosion. Bossvette has the ticket in the pictures he posted. Unless of course, you want to be able to fish out the window of Heaven while you wash it or cut holes in the ice to fish after you put the studs in the rear tires of Heaven.
Soil will wash away and a berm will only redirect the water. A precast basin or two properly placed with plastic smooth wall pipe will keep the water underground. Scenario, you get rain/snow, it starts to melt/thaw, you get a cold snap, what happens to the water above the ground? Hint, it makes the stuff we use to put in a mixed drink and you Canuck's skate on with sticks and a puck. I do drainage all the time to reduce flooding, water damage, mud, ice and erosion. Bossvette has the ticket in the pictures he posted. Unless of course, you want to be able to fish out the window of Heaven while you wash it or cut holes in the ice to fish after you put the studs in the rear tires of Heaven.
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- #147
So Lou, since the water flows across the lowest part of my lot, and empties to a neighbour on the opposite side of me from the farm, where would I place these precast basins? How large are they? Are they intended to capture the water? If so, they'd have to be damn big.
If I understand how they are used, wouldn't I end up owning the water and the expense that goes with it, rather than trying to stop it from coming on to my land.
Please explain. Thanks.
:confused
If I understand how they are used, wouldn't I end up owning the water and the expense that goes with it, rather than trying to stop it from coming on to my land.
Please explain. Thanks.
:confused
bossvette
Gone but not forgotten
Silicone sealant, my Wife calls it my favorite fixit.
you can take the dirt from your excavation to build up your yard where the water enters funneling it to the pipes which run underground and empty it out on the other side of the yard. A concrete basin would be nice but may not be necessary.
Best ask the neighbor how often it floods to determine if you want concrete. Ours has been like that for 10 years and I have only seen a large lake on the neighbors side a few times, it drains out in no time.
Rowdy1
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Depends.........
The water runs through your property and exits to your neighbor, what does he think about this? Is he also content to let it run through his property and to the next? Water runs down hill obviously, in the picture Bossvette has of the inlet side of the pipes, the water enters there, and runs underground to a place where it can empty out, a pond etc. Picture the catch basin lids you see taking water on a road. Under that lid is either a man made basin using catch basin block and cement or a precast basin, both of which would have a pipe exiting out of it. The precast last longer, and can handle more than you think, "depending" on what size outlet pipe you use, especially if the inside is treated with a tar like chemical to prevent road salt and water abrasion from deteriorating the inside walls. You place the box where you know the water is coming from with enough pipe to make it go underground to it's next resting place or to continue it's journey off your property. The pipe comes in 20 foot lengths, from 6" to huge, more than you'd ever need. I've typically put in over 200' of 18" pipe in a day and that includes having to cut the blacktop, remove the dirt, lay the pipe which has a male female to interlock and back fill the trench. You have no blacktop, that drainage would be a piece of cake once you know where the water enters and where you would have it discharge. Me explaining this is not text book, but as I do it everyday, in my head I see it plain as day, kind of like Bud or Tammy trying to explain how I download a picture. I'll be back, my hands are cramping from old age, and I'll see if I can explain it better, but to answer your question above, no, you would not own that water, you'd be letting it pass through your property as you do now, only under the ground, not on top of it. "Life's messy, clean it up"
The water runs through your property and exits to your neighbor, what does he think about this? Is he also content to let it run through his property and to the next? Water runs down hill obviously, in the picture Bossvette has of the inlet side of the pipes, the water enters there, and runs underground to a place where it can empty out, a pond etc. Picture the catch basin lids you see taking water on a road. Under that lid is either a man made basin using catch basin block and cement or a precast basin, both of which would have a pipe exiting out of it. The precast last longer, and can handle more than you think, "depending" on what size outlet pipe you use, especially if the inside is treated with a tar like chemical to prevent road salt and water abrasion from deteriorating the inside walls. You place the box where you know the water is coming from with enough pipe to make it go underground to it's next resting place or to continue it's journey off your property. The pipe comes in 20 foot lengths, from 6" to huge, more than you'd ever need. I've typically put in over 200' of 18" pipe in a day and that includes having to cut the blacktop, remove the dirt, lay the pipe which has a male female to interlock and back fill the trench. You have no blacktop, that drainage would be a piece of cake once you know where the water enters and where you would have it discharge. Me explaining this is not text book, but as I do it everyday, in my head I see it plain as day, kind of like Bud or Tammy trying to explain how I download a picture. I'll be back, my hands are cramping from old age, and I'll see if I can explain it better, but to answer your question above, no, you would not own that water, you'd be letting it pass through your property as you do now, only under the ground, not on top of it. "Life's messy, clean it up"
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- #150
Digging across my septic drainage bed (which is directly in the path) might be a bit dicey. :eek :ugh
Rowdy1
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Not Really............
Don't be scared of a little poop, hell it's yours to begin with. Seriously, do I have to come up there? They dug the yard up to put that septic in and your going to dig it up to tie the Heaven Palace in or, let me ask you this, do you how cold it is in a Porta John?
Don't be scared of a little poop, hell it's yours to begin with. Seriously, do I have to come up there? They dug the yard up to put that septic in and your going to dig it up to tie the Heaven Palace in or, let me ask you this, do you how cold it is in a Porta John?
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- #152
I phoned my town Building Department to run some stuff past him. Spoke to the Deputy Planner and he is aware of the flow over my yard and my neighbour's, every spring.
Discussions are already going on with the farmer over long-term use and intermediate solutions.
I found out that after crossing my land, and my neighbour's to the east of me, the water ends up at the next concession road where a large catch basin joins it up with an existing creek on the other side of the road.
Like I said, the flood lasted less than two days and "poof" it was gone. :eek
After I go down to visit the Planning Deputy in person, I'll see what I can learn about their intentions, or the framer's intentions
Maybe it will help that the newly-elected Mayor is my new best friend. She likes old Corvettes; young-manly-studs; and people who vote for her. Hey. Two out of three ain't bad.
Discussions are already going on with the farmer over long-term use and intermediate solutions.
I found out that after crossing my land, and my neighbour's to the east of me, the water ends up at the next concession road where a large catch basin joins it up with an existing creek on the other side of the road.
Like I said, the flood lasted less than two days and "poof" it was gone. :eek
After I go down to visit the Planning Deputy in person, I'll see what I can learn about their intentions, or the framer's intentions
Maybe it will help that the newly-elected Mayor is my new best friend. She likes old Corvettes; young-manly-studs; and people who vote for her.
Hey. Two out of three ain't bad.
Maybe it will help that the newly-elected Mayor is my new best friend. She likes old Corvettes; young-manly-studs; and people who vote for her.
What? You are not planning to vote for her?
- Thread starter
- #154
Okay, next problem. :W
There are plenty of mature trees on my property. Unfortunately, I have to remove one pine in order to complete the driveway into the garage in the back yard. However, there are large lower branches on several other trees that are going to make it very difficult to get large equipment in. I'm thinking about the pouring of the floor, delivery of lumber, windows, doors, shingles, etc.
In each case (especially the cement), a large truck will be right into the lower branches. I can tie some branches back to other trees, but I'm almost certain that a cement delivery truck ain't gonna make it, not to mention a lumber truck.
The building site is about 150 feet back from the road.
As for lumber, etc., is it simply a case of having it dropped at the road and man-handling it all the way back, or do you know a secret? Maybe I could borrow a flat bed trailer and tow it all in with my Tahoe.
As for the cement?
Let the genius of the
come forth.
There are plenty of mature trees on my property. Unfortunately, I have to remove one pine in order to complete the driveway into the garage in the back yard. However, there are large lower branches on several other trees that are going to make it very difficult to get large equipment in. I'm thinking about the pouring of the floor, delivery of lumber, windows, doors, shingles, etc.
In each case (especially the cement), a large truck will be right into the lower branches. I can tie some branches back to other trees, but I'm almost certain that a cement delivery truck ain't gonna make it, not to mention a lumber truck.
The building site is about 150 feet back from the road.
As for lumber, etc., is it simply a case of having it dropped at the road and man-handling it all the way back, or do you know a secret? Maybe I could borrow a flat bed trailer and tow it all in with my Tahoe.
As for the cement?
Let the genius of the
come forth.
bossvette
Gone but not forgotten
what about coming in on your Farmer neighbors open field to get closer, the cement guys will have an answer as to how close they have to get. They can always use wheelbarrows 
when they had an outside contractor do cement work in one of the GM plants I worked at there was a day long procession of motorized wheelbarrows on one of the pours.
when they had an outside contractor do cement work in one of the GM plants I worked at there was a day long procession of motorized wheelbarrows on one of the pours.
Rowdy1
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WHEW!!!
I'm glad Bossvette hopped in with the genius aspect of it, cause I'm sure not
otfl
You have a number of choices, chainsaw, rope, pruning with the chemicals to preserve the branches after you clip them. "Most" construction supply places have the detachable fork lift trucks now that allow them to set up on the street drop the lift truck off and run the materials to the site. First problem I see is the lumber, if you drive a truck with 16' or longer boards on the bed of the truck to the site, height would be your only problem, if you unload that 16' using a lift truck, you need that wide as the forks would pick the boards up from the middle to balance them the same way you would use a fork to pick up something on a pallet. Cement block trucks often have a boom with forks operated by the driver to lift them off the truck and set them on the site after he has gotten within the building area. Same with your steel, be it beams or bar for the floor and walls. I wish I had all the access pictures or possible entry routes in front onf me, I could better make my uneducated guess but I suggest you contact each supplier you will be using or if you're getting a general contracter for the whole job, have him look over all the avenues you have to use and how the materials would be delivered. You "may" have to use a temporary road for the equipment, concrete trucks have additional chutes they can lock together to get the concrete to the pour when the truck can't. They also have concrete pump trucks that can pump uphill but the cost is not effective unless you're building a high rise. The last alternative would be a helicopter with drum pours but that may be a little more expensive too Let the guys that do it in your area every day tell you what's best after you tell them what's off limits as far as what you're willing to do and not to do to make access for them.
I'm glad Bossvette hopped in with the genius aspect of it, cause I'm sure not
otfl You have a number of choices, chainsaw, rope, pruning with the chemicals to preserve the branches after you clip them. "Most" construction supply places have the detachable fork lift trucks now that allow them to set up on the street drop the lift truck off and run the materials to the site. First problem I see is the lumber, if you drive a truck with 16' or longer boards on the bed of the truck to the site, height would be your only problem, if you unload that 16' using a lift truck, you need that wide as the forks would pick the boards up from the middle to balance them the same way you would use a fork to pick up something on a pallet. Cement block trucks often have a boom with forks operated by the driver to lift them off the truck and set them on the site after he has gotten within the building area. Same with your steel, be it beams or bar for the floor and walls. I wish I had all the access pictures or possible entry routes in front onf me, I could better make my uneducated guess but I suggest you contact each supplier you will be using or if you're getting a general contracter for the whole job, have him look over all the avenues you have to use and how the materials would be delivered. You "may" have to use a temporary road for the equipment, concrete trucks have additional chutes they can lock together to get the concrete to the pour when the truck can't. They also have concrete pump trucks that can pump uphill but the cost is not effective unless you're building a high rise. The last alternative would be a helicopter with drum pours but that may be a little more expensive too
Let the guys that do it in your area every day tell you what's best after you tell them what's off limits as far as what you're willing to do and not to do to make access for them.
bossvette
Gone but not forgotten
no way
I'm not a genius, but often the simple things are over-looked don't know the lay of the land but one of those pictures showed the Farmer neighbors looks pretty clear,temporarily leasing a lane alongside your property line could get stuff back in easier, but best hurry before spring planting season.
I'm not a genius, but often the simple things are over-looked
don't know the lay of the land but one of those pictures showed the Farmer neighbors looks pretty clear,temporarily leasing a lane alongside your property line could get stuff back in easier, but best hurry before spring planting season.- Thread starter
- #158
Lou and Craig,
Thanks for your mental prowess. I'm the general contractor (just call me General), just like on the previous garage I built with Doug's able assistance.
I hate hiring someone when I could benefit from a great learning experience. Besides, I love to swing a hammer.
As for your suggestion that I use the farmer's land for access, but do it soon before planting, Craig, I had considered that, but going soon means up to your axles in mud.
hnoes
Sometimes we create our own problems. When I moved in, I noticed that the where the road dead-ends at the north-west corner of my property, there wasn't a warning sign. Since there are no street-lights, it would be easy for a driver to shoot straight off the end of the street into the driver's field. Now, y'all know I'm a very civic-minded individual, so, I got the town to erect a warning sign.............which is, of course, now in the way if I get approval to truck stuff across the farmer's land.
:duh
I'd be turning a sharp left, after the sign, around the trees to the left.
Hmmmm........who do I know with a Sikorsky?
Thanks for your mental prowess.
I'm the general contractor (just call me General), just like on the previous garage I built with Doug's able assistance.
I hate hiring someone when I could benefit from a great learning experience. Besides, I love to swing a hammer.
As for your suggestion that I use the farmer's land for access, but do it soon before planting, Craig, I had considered that, but going soon means up to your axles in mud.
hnoes Sometimes we create our own problems. When I moved in, I noticed that the where the road dead-ends at the north-west corner of my property, there wasn't a warning sign. Since there are no street-lights, it would be easy for a driver to shoot straight off the end of the street into the driver's field. Now, y'all know I'm a very civic-minded individual, so, I got the town to erect a warning sign.............which is, of course, now in the way if I get approval to truck stuff across the farmer's land.
:duh
I'd be turning a sharp left, after the sign, around the trees to the left.
Hmmmm........who do I know with a Sikorsky?
bossvette
Gone but not forgotten
if it ain't broke don't fix it, City Boy. otflotfl
otflotfl- Thread starter
- #160
if it ain't broke don't fix it, City Boy.
I'm beginning to understand. :eyerole
Later this afternoon, I'll post photos of what I've been doing lately.......just so's y'all don't think I'm sitting back suckin' on a lemonade dreaming about a garage all day.
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