old stingray
New member
I repaired my top almost 2 years ago,still holding as good as the first day.
Convertible Rear Window - How to Refasten: Copied from CF
- Thread starter 6 Shooter
- Start date
jss101
Active member
It might be worth finding that Rhino glue
I did a similar technique on my 2002. I used a 2x4 cut to the right length to put pressure on the window from inside the car. I used the two part epoxy instead of the Rhino glue, since I've used it before for other projects. The epoxy is wildly strong - it seems like the window is as strong as ever now that it's done.
However, I had two problems I thought I'd warn folks about. I wasn't as neat as I should have been, thinking I'd be able to clean excess glue off the glass. No way. Once it hardened it seems like it would take a jackhammer to get it off. The other thing I noticed is that the glue added thickness to the joint. Not a problem for normal driving, but when you go to put the top down it's more difficult, since it hits the cover. Just a little, but I kind of have to drag it past the cover to get it down.
Sigh. In the end I think I'm going to spring for a new top in the spring (ha). I was considering ordering one from Ecklers. Has anyone had experience with that?
Thanks.
I did a similar technique on my 2002. I used a 2x4 cut to the right length to put pressure on the window from inside the car. I used the two part epoxy instead of the Rhino glue, since I've used it before for other projects. The epoxy is wildly strong - it seems like the window is as strong as ever now that it's done.
However, I had two problems I thought I'd warn folks about. I wasn't as neat as I should have been, thinking I'd be able to clean excess glue off the glass. No way. Once it hardened it seems like it would take a jackhammer to get it off. The other thing I noticed is that the glue added thickness to the joint. Not a problem for normal driving, but when you go to put the top down it's more difficult, since it hits the cover. Just a little, but I kind of have to drag it past the cover to get it down.
Sigh. In the end I think I'm going to spring for a new top in the spring (ha). I was considering ordering one from Ecklers. Has anyone had experience with that?
Thanks.
747jock
Member
Still holding with Rhino Glue!
Let me 2nd that declaration! If you note in my previous post, I repaired my window in 2010. I'm happy to say, the window remains in good shape, not coming loose anywhere, and doesn't leak at all. The Rhino glue worked perfectly and has bought me 4 extra years' use out of my top! It's not like my car has been sitting around in the garage, either, as I've driven it to Corvettes at Carlisle twice and out to Corvette Weekend in Ocean City, MD, as well as a trip out to Nashville and back to my home in Virginia. The couple of places where I slopped a bit of the Rhino Glue on the glass were easily cleaned up with acetone, so I have a nice clean back window, too, unlike the reports that some folks have had in using epoxy. I've no doubt epoxy works well, but it does require extra care in applying it so it doesn't drip out on the glass. At this point, I'd recommend the Rhino Glue method to anybody. My top remains in good shape, with annual cleaning and liberal application of 3M waterproofing spray, so I fully expect to get another couple of years or so out of it. Your own "mileage may vary", but for me, it was money well-spent to buy the Rhino glue.
I repaired my top almost 2 years ago,still holding as good as the first day.
Let me 2nd that declaration! If you note in my previous post, I repaired my window in 2010. I'm happy to say, the window remains in good shape, not coming loose anywhere, and doesn't leak at all. The Rhino glue worked perfectly and has bought me 4 extra years' use out of my top! It's not like my car has been sitting around in the garage, either, as I've driven it to Corvettes at Carlisle twice and out to Corvette Weekend in Ocean City, MD, as well as a trip out to Nashville and back to my home in Virginia. The couple of places where I slopped a bit of the Rhino Glue on the glass were easily cleaned up with acetone, so I have a nice clean back window, too, unlike the reports that some folks have had in using epoxy. I've no doubt epoxy works well, but it does require extra care in applying it so it doesn't drip out on the glass. At this point, I'd recommend the Rhino Glue method to anybody. My top remains in good shape, with annual cleaning and liberal application of 3M waterproofing spray, so I fully expect to get another couple of years or so out of it. Your own "mileage may vary", but for me, it was money well-spent to buy the Rhino glue.
747jock
Member
Ooops
Sorry, guys, but I had a slip of the keys! I meant to say I got an extra 3 years out of my top so far, not 4. But again, it is still holding up well.
Sorry, guys, but I had a slip of the keys! I meant to say I got an extra 3 years out of my top so far, not 4. But again, it is still holding up well.
joelgjoel
Active member
Just had my top replaced. Ordered it from www.[B]topsonline[/B].com/ and they will drop ship to your installer. They have lists of them. Saved me about $300. They have the Robbins original, price depends on year but install was $330 and a perfect job.
747jock
Member
Tops Online
Looked at the site and prices are pretty decent for the C5. Occasionally you can beat it on eBay but the current listings are ridiculously high at over $500. You're lucky to have been able to stay under $1000; most people I've known to change their tops have paid $1200-$1500 for the job, but then again it depends on whether or not they needed new cables, headliner, etc, which can dramatically increase the cost of installation. Looks like you did your research!
Looked at the site and prices are pretty decent for the C5. Occasionally you can beat it on eBay but the current listings are ridiculously high at over $500. You're lucky to have been able to stay under $1000; most people I've known to change their tops have paid $1200-$1500 for the job, but then again it depends on whether or not they needed new cables, headliner, etc, which can dramatically increase the cost of installation. Looks like you did your research!
jss101
Active member
Did you buy the top from tops on line and then bring it to a canvas place or a dealer for the install? I've been quoted $1500 for a new top, installed, but I'm considering ordering one and bringing it somewhere for installation. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #28
4LT GS RoadsterMy ragtop's hanging in there, I know it's just a matter of time...
yellow00
New member
Superglue gel
I repaired my 2000 rear window with superglue (cyanoacrylate) gel. Mine was separated on one side only and the repair lasted 3-4 years. I had to redo it and it has held up for at least another 2 years. When the other side came loose, I fixed with the same glue and it has lasted several years. It is necessary to use the gel type product rather than the liquid since it fills gaps. I left it for a half a day and it set up fine. I think a number of companies make this type of glue. I got some at Harbor Freight.
I repaired my 2000 rear window with superglue (cyanoacrylate) gel. Mine was separated on one side only and the repair lasted 3-4 years. I had to redo it and it has held up for at least another 2 years. When the other side came loose, I fixed with the same glue and it has lasted several years. It is necessary to use the gel type product rather than the liquid since it fills gaps. I left it for a half a day and it set up fine. I think a number of companies make this type of glue. I got some at Harbor Freight.
Gdad45
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Messages
- 40
- Location
- Scott County, KY
- Corvette
- 2000 Triple Black Convertible 6speed
Convertible Rear Window
Read the post about Rhino Glue and decided to give it a try.
FANTASTIC !
Had to cut out all the wood glue somebody had tried. It was crystallized and had expanded. What a mess. Took about two hours with a razor to clear it out. Fabric on outside top edge had curled up.
Made a clamp to fit to the top edge of the window inside and out. Did about an eight inch section at a time and allowed to dry for many hours before unclamping. Using the clamp ensured that the previously curled edge stayed flat while the glue dried.
Used my high-tech scrap lumber and attached pieces of PVC squares to the ends. Used short drywall screws countersunk to avoid scratching things (paint). With the rear of the top loose the lower wooden piece slid underneath. A hand clamp squeezed it tight.
Looks great. If there are any problems with it I'll update this post (no news is good news).
Read the post about Rhino Glue and decided to give it a try.
FANTASTIC !
Had to cut out all the wood glue somebody had tried. It was crystallized and had expanded. What a mess. Took about two hours with a razor to clear it out. Fabric on outside top edge had curled up.
Made a clamp to fit to the top edge of the window inside and out. Did about an eight inch section at a time and allowed to dry for many hours before unclamping. Using the clamp ensured that the previously curled edge stayed flat while the glue dried.
Used my high-tech scrap lumber and attached pieces of PVC squares to the ends. Used short drywall screws countersunk to avoid scratching things (paint). With the rear of the top loose the lower wooden piece slid underneath. A hand clamp squeezed it tight.
Looks great. If there are any problems with it I'll update this post (no news is good news).
Gdad45
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Messages
- 40
- Location
- Scott County, KY
- Corvette
- 2000 Triple Black Convertible 6speed
Rear Window Still Holding Tight
Did a trip from Kentucky to Boston, Ma and back. Heavy rainstorms on the way up. No leaks at the rear window.
Did a couple of 90-100 MPH bursts on the way back. Window's holding tight.
Rhino Glue is awesome.
Did a trip from Kentucky to Boston, Ma and back. Heavy rainstorms on the way up. No leaks at the rear window.
Did a couple of 90-100 MPH bursts on the way back. Window's holding tight.
Rhino Glue is awesome.
747jock
Member
Window as good as ever
I am now at the 4 year point and haven't had so much as a pinhole leak around the window I repaired with Rhino Glue. That was the best suggestion I've encountered anywhere on the forum. Thanks again!
I am now at the 4 year point and haven't had so much as a pinhole leak around the window I repaired with Rhino Glue. That was the best suggestion I've encountered anywhere on the forum. Thanks again!
Convertible Window Separationshops
I had the same problem but took a few minutes to call around to different upholstery shops and found one in Glendale, AZ that could repair it. They guaranteed their work for three years in the heat of the Valley of the Sun where it is routinely 112 degrees. The total cost was $500, far cheaper than a new top. My hat is off to those who were able to repair it themselves. I just don't have the patience.
I had the same problem but took a few minutes to call around to different upholstery shops and found one in Glendale, AZ that could repair it. They guaranteed their work for three years in the heat of the Valley of the Sun where it is routinely 112 degrees. The total cost was $500, far cheaper than a new top. My hat is off to those who were able to repair it themselves. I just don't have the patience.
sargeter
Member
Top glue
I used 3M Window Weld and it held up good for about 3 years. The whole thing was almost detached when I repaired it back in November 2013. I had to use a primer with the 3M. I don't keep it in the garage. I park it on the street. That's 3 years of sitting in all kinds of weather.
I'm noticing a little separation at the top now so I'm going to try the Rhino glue this time. It looks like it will be easier to do with that.
Back in 2013 when I fixed it, I did the same thing with the suction cups and rope over the rafter in my garage.
People question why I don't garage it all the time. I tell them it's like when I was a Marine. There are barracks Marines who like to stand around and look pretty in their dress blues and there are bush Marines who like to be out all the time doing stuff and getting into action. I was a bush Marine. My C-5 is a bush 'Vette. It wasn't meant to just sit around and look pretty. It was meant to be driven. It's my daily driver.
Besides that, it's kind of a long walk for me back to my detached garage just to get it out to go somewhere then put it back in and walk back to the house.
I used 3M Window Weld and it held up good for about 3 years. The whole thing was almost detached when I repaired it back in November 2013. I had to use a primer with the 3M. I don't keep it in the garage. I park it on the street. That's 3 years of sitting in all kinds of weather.
I'm noticing a little separation at the top now so I'm going to try the Rhino glue this time. It looks like it will be easier to do with that.
Back in 2013 when I fixed it, I did the same thing with the suction cups and rope over the rafter in my garage.
People question why I don't garage it all the time. I tell them it's like when I was a Marine. There are barracks Marines who like to stand around and look pretty in their dress blues and there are bush Marines who like to be out all the time doing stuff and getting into action. I was a bush Marine. My C-5 is a bush 'Vette. It wasn't meant to just sit around and look pretty. It was meant to be driven. It's my daily driver.
Besides that, it's kind of a long walk for me back to my detached garage just to get it out to go somewhere then put it back in and walk back to the house.
grindereleven
Member
Older thread, but still applicable. I like your fix. Mine started detaching in 2014. I used the bathroom shower suction cup handles attached to the glass. Then used combination of bungee straps, old bedroom pillows under the glass, and motorcycle tie downs attached to the ceiling trusses. I also used 3M Window Weld. Worked great. Still working today, 6 years later. No leaks, been over 140mph more times than I'll admit to!
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