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coolant level

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retiredjumpmaster

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I have had my coolant light go off and on during my driving around town. I checked the level in the radiator and it was flowing well brown in color and low. I put some water in it and planned on flushing very soon. I drove it again probably 15 miles and again the light came on? This time I parked the car in the drive hoping to see some type of leak? None. My uncle says it could be a cracked block or even a blown head gasket? The car runs great with no heat tempature issues. I would love to think it was the cap but my luck so far with this car from a dealership is anything but lucky. Any ideas.

2nd question

When I turn on the turn signal doesn't matter which, the front marker lights up a constant light the lens is clear? the front amber lens in the fog light blinks is this common or should the clear light blink alternating with the amber. I have ordered my shop manual got it from ebay. Hopefully this will help with these questions,

3rd question

my interior lights won't come on when either door is opened, but I can adjust the light switch and all the lights come on then. Could this be the ajar switch which is
in the panel where the door closes on? And if so how does it come out so that I can replace it. Sorry for so many questions in one post.

David;help
 
I have had my coolant light go off and on during my driving around town. I checked the level in the radiator and it was flowing well brown in color and low. I put some water in it and planned on flushing very soon. I drove it again probably 15 miles and again the light came on? This time I parked the car in the drive hoping to see some type of leak? None. My uncle says it could be a cracked block or even a blown head gasket? The car runs great with no heat tempature issues. I would love to think it was the cap but my luck so far with this car from a dealership is anything but lucky. Any ideas.

2nd question

When I turn on the turn signal doesn't matter which, the front marker lights up a constant light the lens is clear? the front amber lens in the fog light blinks is this common or should the clear light blink alternating with the amber. I have ordered my shop manual got it from ebay. Hopefully this will help with these questions,

3rd question

my interior lights won't come on when either door is opened, but I can adjust the light switch and all the lights come on then. Could this be the ajar switch which is
in the panel where the door closes on? And if so how does it come out so that I can replace it. Sorry for so many questions in one post.

David;help

Regarding your interior lights. I have thoroughly researched why my '95 has had this problem since we purchased it about 6 years ago. I've narrowed it down to the courtesy light relay. It is located in the dash, just above the passenger's foot-well. I found this by breaking out my shop manual and performing a diagnostic using the cars built-in diagnostic procedure. I tried all other electro-mechanical checks to no avail (door ajar switch, etc.).
 
I don't know about the '86 but my '88 has a low coolant sensor in the reservoir. The reservoir cap has a dip stick attached to it and the coolant in the reservoir needs to be at the proper level.

The lights are working properly. The clear light is not a turn signal, but a light to help the driver see what lies around the corner.
 
2nd question

When I turn on the turn signal doesn't matter which, the front marker lights up a constant light the lens is clear? the front amber lens in the fog light blinks is this common or should the clear light blink alternating with the amber. I have ordered my shop manual got it from ebay. Hopefully this will help with these questions,


David;help

Is this the white light in the side of the fender?
If so, the white light out to the side is a turn light to iluminate where you are turning to. My 93 does the same, I also had an old Dodge Manaco that would light up the whole side of the street when you put the turn signal on.

Whoops, didn't see that the question was already answered.
TR
 
I would pressure check the coolant system. If you have a leak it will show up with this test. You also can pressure check the radiator cap to be sure it is holding pressure. We always tend to jump at the most expensive things first when it usually is the simple things that cause the trouble. You might also check to see if the passenger carpet is wet (Heater Core). Good luck finding the problem.:bash
 
If it was a cracked block or blown headgasket you would have either coolant mixing with oil or the combustion chamber. Check your exhaust for white "smoke" (steam. Also check your radiator cap, if you have a buildup of brownish goo on the bottom of the cap you probably have oil in you cooling sysyte.

The other reason you could be getting a low coolant light is that you are indeed low on coolant. Your owners manual will give you the steps to refill but basically you have to "burp" the system to make sure you get all of the air out of it. Your surge and overflow tanks may show the proper level but you may still have air in the system which you have to get out.
 
I have had my coolant light go off and on during my driving around town. I checked the level in the radiator and it was flowing well brown in color and low. I put some water in it and planned on flushing very soon. I drove it again probably 15 miles and again the light came on? This time I parked the car in the drive hoping to see some type of leak? None. My uncle says it could be a cracked block or even a blown head gasket? The car runs great with no heat tempature issues. I would love to think it was the cap but my luck so far with this car from a dealership is anything but lucky. Any ideas.

I can help with this one. The L98 had problems with "Burping" - what happens is that air gets into the hose, and it's higher than the coolant level in the radiator. I don't know that there's any way to "fix" this because it's just the way the motor is designed. What you CAN do is to "Pack" more fluid into the cooling system. This works well on the L98 - I've never tried it with any other engine.

With the motor cool to cold, start the engine and let it warm up just a little bit. Stand on the passenger side with an open container of coolant or water at the ready. Open the radiator cap - ALWAYS BE CAREFUL DOING THIS BECAUSE YOU DO NOT WANT TO BURN YOURSELF. Notice that the coolant is flowing from the hose into the radiator. Reach across the engine. (AGAIN BE CAREFUL, there's moving stuff there!) Rev the motor up to a fast idle and keep it there. Watch the coolant level go down in the radiator. Pour in fresh water/coolant. Put the radiator cap back on and tighten well. Let the motor return to normal idle.
 
2nd question

When I turn on the turn signal doesn't matter which, the front marker lights up a constant light the lens is clear? the front amber lens in the fog light blinks is this common or should the clear light blink alternating with the amber. I have ordered my shop manual got it from ebay. Hopefully this will help with these questions,

David;help

The way you describe it is exactly how it is designed to work. The clear light on the sides are called a "Cornering Lights" and provide illumination on the side of the car in the direction you're turning. It's supposed to help you see things "around the corner". It stays on constantly while the signal is on, and is not supposed to flash. In addition, there are amber lights in front of the Cornering Lights that flash in sequence with the front turn signals.

On the '89, the Cornering Lights only come on when the headlights are on, and then the side turn-signal lights flash alternately with the front turn-signal lights.. (The amber lights flash at the same time with the headlights OFF, but take turns when the headlights are ON)
 
The overflow tank must have fluid in it. When the engine is hot and turned off the cooling fluid in the engine and radiator create a vacuum that pulls the fluid from the overflow tank to replace the air with fluid. If you keep the overflow tank filled with the right combination of antifreeze and water it will after a few cycles replace all the air with fluid. In order for this to work the radiator cap must seal tightly so that the vacuum does not pull air from around the cap. Of course if you have a leak in the heater core or the hoses or water pump the syphoning will not work and therefor your low fluid light will come on. If the system is working properly you will notice that the overflow tank has more fluid when hot and less fluid when cold.

My dad and I started modifiying our cars with this system in the early 1950's. We also used it on the various sports cars that we raced in SCCA.
 
Well I had the radiator presure tested and all went good, had to replace the cap. The coolant light has not come on so far maybe the flush and pressure test fixed it. But I was told that the rear intake gasket was leaking and I was shown the spot, and the fix will be $1200.00? I wonder if I bought a trap or if this is just part of owning a corvette. I thank all of you for the info on the lights

David
Gone Poor
 
But I was told that the rear intake gasket was leaking and I was shown the spot, and the fix will be $1200.00? I wonder if I bought a trap or if this is just part of owning a corvette. I thank all of you for the info on the lights

David
Gone Poor

That leak is not uncommon with C4s. Unless the leak is extreme or really bothers you I would let it go until you need some real engine work done, or you could do it yourself, the L98 isn't that hard to work on.
 
I can help with this one. The L98 had problems with "Burping" - what happens is that air gets into the hose, and it's higher than the coolant level in the radiator. I don't know that there's any way to "fix" this because it's just the way the motor is designed. What you CAN do is to "Pack" more fluid into the cooling system. This works well on the L98 - I've never tried it with any other engine.

With the motor cool to cold, start the engine and let it warm up just a little bit. Stand on the passenger side with an open container of coolant or water at the ready. Open the radiator cap - ALWAYS BE CAREFUL DOING THIS BECAUSE YOU DO NOT WANT TO BURN YOURSELF. Notice that the coolant is flowing from the hose into the radiator. Reach across the engine. (AGAIN BE CAREFUL, there's moving stuff there!) Rev the motor up to a fast idle and keep it there. Watch the coolant level go down in the radiator. Pour in fresh water/coolant. Put the radiator cap back on and tighten well. Let the motor return to normal idle.

This same procedure works with my '86. I'll add a few tips:

1. Put the front end up on ramps...helps minimize the impact of low radiator location.
2. Start with a cold engine, and crack the radiator cap open before you start the engine. Leave the cap in place to reduce any slop onto the garage floor.
3. Keep an eye on engine temp, and test temp using upper radiator hose. When it gets noticably hotter, the thermostat has opened (around 195 deg if you've got a factory thermostat).
4. At that point, you should be able to rev the engine to about 1500 rpm...that drops the level significantly. I wedged some rolled up paper under the throttle plate to keep it at the right rpm while I worked.
5. As stated above, keep the rpm's up until you've topped off the coolant AND replaced the cap.

It took me three attempts to completely "pack" the radiator...but my light hasn't come on since I finished this process. Good luck.
 

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