degree in that cam

[grumpyvette]

now if your like most guys if youve never done it your thinking it a huge complicated deal, ITS NOT,just follow the instructions in the links, Id advise you read them all because some are more clear on some parts of the process than others and youll get a better over/all feel for the process. all you need is a degree wheel, a dial indicator , a solid lifter and a pocket calculator and its something you can do in about 15 minutes time.
NOW youll be asking WHY BOTHER?
well its RARE for the index marks on the timing gears and the cam index pin to place the cam lobe rotation EXACTLY where it was intended to be and a shift of only a few degrees can and does move the power curve a hundred or more rpm up or down in the rpm range. now thats not huge but in a few cases youll find the cams significantly differant than the specs indicate and you could easily be down 5-20hp or have it idle like crap, if its indexed wrong, Id be very surprised if some guys cars ran worth a crap or at all if you just slapped in useing the cam gear index marks.
and in one case I found the cam gear in a imported timing sets chain drive to be off almost 9 degrees, if you had installed that IM sure the car would run like crap, that cam gear was manufactured in INDIA and it was purchased at discount auto about 10 years ago, so there ARE crap parts out there in the market place.
BTW alot of cam drive gear sets come with 3 crank slots and 3 marks on the cam timing gears that need to match to index the cam and if you screw it up durring the install is possiable to totally screw up the relationship between the cam and crank, degreeing in the cam points that mistake out vividly
youll need a few basic tools and a good understanding of what your doing, but its certainly not all that difficult.
I was asked where to get a CHEAP degree wheel
heres one you can print out and save for engine builds on the engine stand
(put curser on an click)
http://savetheledges.org/test/AVS/images/tech/CrankDegreeWheel.png
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=MOR-62191&N=700+303547+115&autoview=sku
BTW you CAN advance or retard the roller timing chain its done bye drilling out the cam index pin hole in the timing gear and installing an off set bushing
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-4760&autoview=sku

you could buy these from summit racing or similar parts from jegs

this is 180 degrees out (the distrib rotor points at cylinder #6, so before you drop in the distrib rotate the crank 360 degrees bring both marks to the 12 o-clock location, then drop in the distrib pointing to cylinder #1, and adjust ignition timing from that point
http://www.summitracing.com/
http://www.jegs.com sells this KIT
Comp Cams #249-4796
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp Cams/249/4796/10002/-1
and you can buy these
MOR-62191 $44 (wheel)
MOR-61755 $47 (SBC)
MOR-61756 $47.(BBC)crank sockets
SUM-900188 $17 (piston stop, head off)
SUM-900189 $6.95(piston stop, head on)
TFS-90000 $94.95 (degree kit)
youll also want two flat tappet solid lifters and two weak check springs

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO-66838&N=700+115&autoview=sku
instructions
http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.html
http://www.thedirtforum.com/degree.htm
http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/camdegree.htm
http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/degree.html
http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/803.pdf
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camshaft.html
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf

 

[geekinavette]

Confirmed!

I have been having a poor idle/low vacuum condition since installing a Crane Powermax2050 in mine. Finally just tore it down, checked the alignment marks, perfectly fine...put on a degree wheel...the cam is 9 degrees off! Instead of 5 degrees of advance it is running 4 degrees retarded.

Live and learn.

 

[grumpyvette]

glad too see someone reads these posts and benefits from the experiance gained bye others.

 

[geekinavette]

170 views....oh they get read! Just because folks to reply to these doesn't mean they don't get read!

glad too see someone reads these posts and benefits from the experiance gained bye others.

Well as it turns out it wasn't off after all...but still learned a valuable lesson in cam timing, which is don't use the intake centerline method with an asymmetrical lobe! :L Went back and used the opening/closing points for both intake and exhaust and that sucker is dead nuts on, not even 1/2 degree off!

However in doing the check I learned that the lobes are wearing down (.016 and .017)...so it's time for a hydraulic roller replacement. (something with some lumpety lump )

I did use the link to the degree wheel image...scaled that to size, printed and stuck it to the wheel I have (7" for a motorcycle since anything larger won't clear the front crossmember). That one is a lot easier to read, helped a lot!

Bill

 

[Toms007]

Ah, Grumpy, there are many who read. I, for one, am not smart enough to put into practice the info you post about most times.....but I am trying to learn.