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Details, details, details!



That's what I've been doing for the last 4 hours!
What a body-bending chore! Wedging myself inside to clean the back area, windows and the ledge. I've got it mostly done, tomorrow I'll polish the wheels, final-clean the windows, wash, vaccum and dress the tires.
Looking good!
I've a question about painting interior pieces...
The black pieces at the base of the rear window are losing their black color...how can I remedy this for the Sat. show? Can I just unscrew them and repaint with flat black spray paint?
I've also a question about my original emblems...they are also loosing their color..and I bought red, black and white nail polish...will that work? Or is it to "Bubba-ess" of a fix?
Forgot to mention...

I have found a new use for the worn out toothbrush heads of our Sonicare system! They work great!:D

I don't see why you couldn't just paint the rear window panels with flat black paint. I'd try it.

I do just about all the detailing on Lemon in preparation for shows and get great satisfaction breaking my back trying to get to those hard to reach places or killing my knees getting under the car! Am I crazy or what!! LOL

One tip I learned was to bring along a black felt tip pen to dab at little spots that might stick out like sore thumbs to a judge...of course, that would only work if your interior is black or if it's something black on the outside that needs touching up!

Also, white lettering on tires look great and really white if you white them down with cotton dipped in lighter fluid....works better than any white wall cleaner.

Good luck in the show!!
show resulsts

Thanks for the tips, Elaine!
I won't be expecting any show results from showing the 78, her interior is way too shot! The show promoters told me they have not had Corvette representation in their past shows, so I just wanted to put her out there as an example of the breed. :)
I will post a fact sheet about the 1978 Corvettes and also a sheet detailing her life with us in her window.
I used simple green on her tires, and the lettering came out VERY bright! I was pleased with the results.
Interior paint

I have seen paint in the MidAmerica catalog that claims to be specialty "interior paint" (pg 206 of their last catalog). I'm wondering if the regular flat paint would wind up peeling off?

I have a question myself, my carpet (black) has faded in spots and I'm wondering if anyone has used the interior paint to touch it up. Does it match well or do you have to spray the entire carpet??

Save the wave :w
I have used the interior dye on my carpet, I had some faded spots. My carpet is black,I sprayed the whole carpet, you only want to spray it lightly then rub it in with a brush .It did a good job.
Some Great tips

You all have some great Detailing tips... lets share with the others... I'm moving this to the Car Care Section.. Lets keep adding... Shows are Here It's SPRING .
the show

...because I volunteered at the show, the promoters let me park it for display only, no judging. A lot of people commented favorably on it...some directly to me, and others I overheard while walking past...everyone enjoyed the Corvette history page I included and the factoids about the 1978 Vette production numbers. I also plugged CACs website :)
I met a lot of friendly people and have received offers to join clubs, mostly street car clubs, and one Corvette club. I will attend meetings of clubs in our area and decide after viewing them all.
I decided not to paint the black pieces with spray paint...because I feared flaking...so I'll try the interior paint from MidAmerica, as it is designed for that application. I think I should stick to tried and true methods that work, instead of using shortcuts that will wind up costing more time and labor in the end.
Interior Work


I once changed a whole interior from gray to black, for the hard plastic panels and bits I just used a matt black. Provided you clean the parts you should have no problem with flaking, it`s probably no different to what is available in the auto catalogs. On the headling and cloth trim I used a good quality fabric dye available from any hardwear shop. The only thing I did buy was the seats and a carpet set from the junk yard. If you have leather seats its easy to clean them up amd have them looking good.

The only minor problem, is that if you only do a couple of panels it shows up the rest that has`nt been done and sometimes this can look worse than if you had left it alone.

As for detailing tips.. I have found that KIWI brand black leather shoe dye works real well on the black leather parts of the interior.. The steering wheel, horn ring, and leather **** knob..
I used the liquid type with the applicator built in.. Looks brand new ...
That old toothbrush works great doesn't it?? I actually went to Walgreens & bought a soft bristled brush and cleaned out the old wax & residue around the "CORVETTE" emblem on the rear bumper and around all the little ZR-1 emblems as well. I'm glad that's over with.........now they look new:)

Ah!! Yes,
The old toothbrush.:cry
I've found that spraying the toothbrush with some "Quick Detailer" of your choice, really speeds up getting the old wax residue off from around the letters etc. :grinshot

Painting interior parts

You can probably use any good quality matching spray paint, BUT, make sure you clean the sufaces thoroughly with a wax and grease remover product (you can use regular hardware store variety paint thinner if you can't get the real thing from an auto body supply house) before you paint. Make sure the wax and grease remaoval solvent doesn't damage the plastic first. If you ever used Armor all or any thing like it on those parts before it will not allow the paint to adhere prperly and may fisheye a lot.
Good luck!
Emblem painting

I have restored several sets of emblems using Pactra model paint. Once you have found the color you need, follow good painting procedures. Clean the surface, scuff the existing paint for adhesion and use several thin coats and a small artist's brush.
Restoring Tail Light Lens

If your rear tail and back up lights are dull and not as bright as new, there is an easy way to restore their clarity and shine. If the plastic lens are heavily oxidized, you can remove this dead layer of plastic with 800 to 2,000 grit sandpaper. I normally use the 2,000 grit.

Once the heavy oxidation is removed, I apply Meguiar's Liquid Cleaner Wax to a 3/8" thick strip of dense foam about 1" wide and 3" long. The foam I use is cut from the G.I. issue, roll-up sleeping pad, but any dense foam will do. Apply the Meguiar's liquid polish to the lens and use the foam strip to distribute and rub the plastic lens. The foam makes it easy to get into crevices and along the edge of the lens. Wipe with SOFT cotton cloth, i.e. cloth diaper.

Depending on how oxidizing the plastic is, you will want to repat this process several times. You will notice an improvement in lens clarity and shine after the first application. If you want to finish with a very fine plastic polish, try Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner # 17 and Clear Plastic Polish #10. To tell you the truth, the last two products appear to be nothing more than watered down versions of the Mequiar's Liquid Cleaner Wax, so you might not want to waste the extra $$$.

Once you have cleaned and polished the outside of the lens, it is time to clean the inside. Using common liquid dish soap, squirt some inside the lens enclosure and rub it around with your finger and a patch of cloth. Try to get all the dust off the white plastic rear reflector and the back of the red lens. Rinse and repeat as needed. Dry with SOFT cotton cloth and air.

If you have a different reflector than the 78 unit I have, you might want to review the last step before applying it to your vehicle. If you have a spray-on reflective coat inside your reflector, the cleaning suggested may remove it. I don't know, but it is just a word of caution.

The result is clean, clear and brighter tail lights. Hope this helps and sorry if these are repaeted instructions. I am new to List and still learning.

Portland, Oregon
I just polish any dull plastic lenses with Novus #2, it's a plastic polish sold at shops that sell Plexi-glas etc. Thhere is also a Novus #3 for heavier scratches. I just use the # 2 and rub real hard with a clean soft cloth, polishes up great. If you can get the lens out you can polish them to perfection using a soft felt buffing wheel on a bench grinder. You can get polishes made for this type of polishing, but I just smear the Novus #2 on the lens and buff it lightly on the wheel. Just be careful not to burn the plastic, light pressure on the wheel and keep it moving constantly. If the plastic gets warm then stop and let it cool. After buffing is done, either hand or machine, you can clean up the polishing residue using Novus #1, it's a liquid that you use to clean plastics. Good luck!
Detail Brush

I had an old electric shaver that died. Part of the kit included a tiny thin brush. I've found this is just the thing to get into the creavices on the dash, around buttons, and into the vinyl seams. It does work better than a toothbrush because it's narrow and there is only one row of brisles.
Detail Brush

I had an old electric shaver that died. Part of the kit included a tiny thin brush. I've found this is just the thing to get into the creavices on the dash, around buttons, and into the vinyl seams. It does work better than a toothbrush because it's narrow and there is only one row of brisles.
Re: Detail Brush

silver-eagle said:
I had an old electric shaver that died. Part of the kit included a tiny thin brush. I've found this is just the thing to get into the creavices on the dash, around buttons, and into the vinyl seams. It does work better than a toothbrush because it's narrow and there is only one row of brisles.

Great idea, John! We have one of those old electric razors around...I'm going to cannibalize it!!

Lemon Peel

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