Distributor cap replacement, 92 LT1

[femurphy77]

I am in the process of replacing my opti spark and was wondering if anybody knows what size socket the 4 bolts that hold it on are? Part two; please reinforce my opinion that it would be stupid to go to all the trouble of replacing the opti without replacing the cap and rotor. TIA, Frank in Indy

 

[rrubel]

the optispark is a sealed unit - there is no separate cap or rotor to replace.
[RICHR]

 

[femurphy77]

Maybe on every other 92 LT1 in existence but not mine. I've got the new distributor sitting on my desk and the new cap and rotor are due in the morning. Now if I can just find a nut driver to fit those itty bitty bolts in the distributor cap.

 

[femurphy77]

http://corvettefever.com/howto/16758/

Go to the following website, there are photos showing the unit with the cap removed. Http://corvettefever.com/howto/16758/

 

[PLRX]

http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm

MSD
http://www.msdignition.com/2005/2005_9.htm

http://www.samtaylor.com/html/parts.html

I tried the Corvette Fever way and those "T" connectors will rub against the balancer.

The dynotech engineering offers a air line

Good Luck

 

[rrubel]

Ok, I stand corrected. Did a bit more research and found that you can indeed replace just the cap and rotor (though most people recommended replacing the entire unit as a whole). Was news to me...

incidently, the female torx bit you need is called an E5, but I read it's easier to get a torx screw of the right size and use a pair of vise grips on the threaded part and remove the bolts that way.

A potentially-useful link:
http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm

[RICHR]

 

[femurphy77]

Thanks rrubel I'll give that a shot! And thanks plrx787 for the heads up on the rubbing t-connector. When I started this project I was under the impression that the opti was a sealed unit. When I found the corvette fever article and discovered the seperate cap and rotor I know had to force myself to do the right thing and order a ~ $240 cap and rotor, more than the price of the distributor. It's not a terribly difficult job to do, I had to pull the radiator to get it reworked so I just did it all at once. I just don't think I would want to do it with those AC lines in the way during a normal opti only replacement. Somebody had posted that they were able to remove their opti without pulling the balancer but it was a no go on mine. At least when I am done with this phase of the project it should be driveable. I should have just under $6k in a '92 LT1 with straight body, paint and interior. It'll make a nice driver. Frank, Indy

 

[Ruby Fan]

You have to remove the balancer to remove the opti. The socket from Snap-On cost $20 !! Female torx, I can't understand why they put weird fastners on stuff like this. The balancer practically prys off easily, trick is to tighten the bolts without turning the engine (put it in gear and a chock at the wheel) gotta run--later dude