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Door Lock Questions..........

coptertom

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
84
Location
Sunny South Florida
Corvette
1972 and 2014 C7
Back Again, this time with door lock questions:

I just replaced the electrical pigtail for the power door lock on the driver side door. Matched up the wires (color coded), still does not work. I will get back to that.......

When I use the key to lock / unlock the door the key turns but sometimes it will not turn enough to lock. It looks like the linkage that is attached to the lock pawl is slipping or just not being able to get enough movement to the rod.

Is there supposed to be a clip that attached the rod to the pawl?

I am thinking about attempting (and I do mean attempt), to remove the door latch mechanism, to clean it up and re-grease it. IS THIS AN EASY THING TO DO OR SHOULD I JUST GIVE IT UP, RIGHT NOW? I am thinking that if I clean and re-grease it, the lock will work and not bind up, as it seems to be doing.

The assembly manual really does not have a clear picture of which rods go where and which clips to use. Would anyone have a clear picture, that I could work with or possibly a diagram of what goes where. It does not look like anyone has ever removed the door panels to work inside on the locks or window. This was apparent, when I found the metal coil that attach's to the window: laying at the bottom of the door. I am surprise the window is still working.........................

OK, guess I will stop here and hope to get the door locks fixed before asking for more help with other on-going issues.

Thanks,
 
OK just got home from work and decided to take another look at the lock. It looks like the ASM rod that connects the lock actuator and the ASM lever is binding up and is slipping off of the lock actuator. I cleaned up the lock, rods and all the connections then spayed them down real good with WD40.

Is there supposed to be a clip that holds the rod onto the actuator? If not then could it be that the actuator is binding up and cauing undue stress on the rods causing it to pop off? I am not sure how free moving the actuator should be. Should I just replace the actuator? Lastly, how hard is it to replace the actuator should I have to dig in and give it a try?

Help,
 
I cheated and just took a long slim flat head screw driver and popped the actuator loose from the mechanism. Now the key opens the door very easily.

God bless, Sensei
 
Not a bad idea for a quick fix...............I didn't think of that. Guess you don't need the actuator unless you are trying to use the power locks. Think I will go out and give it a try. In the mean time, I guess the other parts will say in place..................until I order and replace the actuators.

Thanks
 
I did it the other way around. Removed the key lock and covert is before repainting now I only have a remote (that doesn't break inside the lock) with a backup 12v connector somewhere :)

Groeten Peter
 
Hey Peter,

Way to techy for me.................I'm lucky enough at times just to un-bolt - repalce and rebolt. If I were to attempt what you did: you know the old saying "FIRE-IN-THE-HOUSE"!

I need to stick to flying helicopters :-)
 
I don't think my power locks have ever worked I've replaced the pig tails and still nothing,I am trying new door switches this time...we'll have to see if it works....:ugh
 
I've replaced the pig tails and still nothing,I am trying new door switches this time...we'll have to see if it works....:ugh

Can I make a humble suggestion? Stop replacing random parts and trace down the problem! All you need to test the switches is a cheap multi-meter. While you are there, use the meter to see if you have power to the switch. You may find everything works and you just have bad connections at the plugs. Or, the actuators themselves may be bad. Nothing is more frustrating than paying good money for parts, putting in the labor to install them, and then finding you have accomplished nothing!

God bless, Sensei
 
every time I take the doors apart and test them they work fine ,pit them back together and they don't work...;squint:
hence the new switches.
 
Hey Bill...........let me know how it works out. I just ordered new actuators and lock cylinders. I was going to order new switches (figured I might as well put all new in; to avoid issuses in the future), but all ZIP had was OEM at $51 a pop. Hopefully, I can clean the switchs up and I will be good to go.

Next item up for repair will be my power window. I figure the spring laying on the bottom of the door was a clue!
 

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