Drain Hoses

[3 Deuce]

Eckler's catalog and others advertise drain hoses for the C-4 along with the drill bits to punch the holes. These are to be done to the gas cap tray and the forward corners of the coupe's lift up rear window. Is anyone really having problems with these areas?

I notice water at the window edge, but my RX 7 had that also w/o a problem. Any excess water I can seem to take care of after detailing.

Has anyone done this? Thanks

 

[kustom_koncepts86]

I'm having a problem with the rear window. the water just collects weather srtipping is rotting out. I haven't done it but a buddy of mine in the corvette club out has done it to his car. You can't really notice it when its installed

 

[Vettelt193]

I haven't done it, but I plan on doing it... I just keep forgetting to include it with my next order like I always intend

 

[BigRed]

Im having a SERIOUS problem with it. My rear seal need to be replaced due to rear window water cling on's. I was looking at the same kit but really??!

Grommet and Tubing Cmon now they are asking 20 bucks for the thing yet I can construct one for 80 Cents. Im drilling my own hole with my own hosing dokickey. I ain't paying (34 Dollars CND) for a POS that cost nothing to produce.

Drill a Hole, Make a rubber sock out of something household, stick some clear tubing on it to drain to under the car done!

Im also doing it to the Females on my hood latches.<---thats actually Steel so thats priority!!! And it Holds water!


Home Depot has Miles of little rubber things that connect to tubing. From the Kit Picture they are using BRASS! <--Yep thats good on the paint I don't care where it is LOL

 

[Pa Pooh]

Drain pipes

I bought the kit and installed these in about 15 minutes. They work quite well and eliminate the annoying water stream that only appears after you have finished drying off your car. DGA:Twist

 

[Alfonso Gomez]

To BigRed

You are right, draining the hood latches are a priority. I bought the kit from Mid America and truthfully, its crap. First, you need to drill the hole at the lowest point so water does not collect there. Then, if you use the brass fitting that is included in the kit, it protudes from the bottom upwards and defeats the purpose of installing it in the first place. It drains partially but when the water level goes down to the level of the fitting, the water stays at that level. And that's on the driver's side. On the passenger's side its another story because the A/C blower motor sits directly below the latch, too close for comfort. What I'm planning to do when I have the time is to remove both latches, drill them, then epoxy a cut-off fitting to the underside of both latches. That way the fittings will not protude into the latch and they will drain completely. Then install long pieces of hose and route them where they will not damage anything. It should be a piece of cake, hopefully. You know how it is: A simple project sometimes turns into a nightmare.ad

 

[TONY TAT2]

you dont even need drain hoses,there are small slits on the receivers to let the water drain out , thay are right up against the receiver & firewall,,just clean them out & run a length of single telephome wire thru the slits to keep em open,leave the ends of the wire looped so you can keep the slits open by moveing the wire back & forth& up & down.........be carefull with drilling thru with the drain holes also in the window channel.you have to go thru the outter body shell,2 layers of steel,then the inner wheel cover,if ya drill 2 close to the inside youll miss the wheel opening!!!best if you remove the wheel & drill up wards,i made my own btw................also used a 45 deg 1/2 brass street fitting for the throttle body by pass,un screw the org water nipple out of the manifold screw in the fitting & install the nipple back in the 45,,,makes a nice gradual bend & clears everything!!!i used a length of new hose for the connection to the water pipe........redid the heater hoses on the 78 also,instesd of buying the pre molded kind i used 90 deg plastic fittings on the bottom hoses comming off the heater core

 

[TONY TAT2]

cooling fan manual turn on,ground wire to toggle switch to grn/wht wire in the fan relay harness.....if ya change yor anti freeze &hoses etc & thremostat,drill 2 small holes in the thremostat/that will keep the block from getting air bound

 

[LOUVETTE]

hood latches

why cant u just drill a hole in the female hood latches and leave it at that......thats what i was planning on doing............i cant see any problem with doing that............does any one else.......sounds easy enough and should solve all problems............

 

[Ken]

Re: hood latches

why cant u just drill a hole in the female hood latches

That's what I did.

_ken

 

[vms4evr]

Re: Re: hood latches

That's what I did.

_ken

Me too
Over a year ago. No problems.
Graham

 

[WhalePirot]

I never had water problems in my hood latches.

Anyone done a home-job on the rear hatch,with excellent result?

I found the MidAmerica mirror wind wedges to be CRAPola, too.

 

[Ken]

I didn't bother with my rear hatch area Mike; I just work my fingers in under the weatherstrip with a towel wrapped around them, and sop up of the water that way. That way I give it a good cleaning at the same time.

_ken

 

[TONY TAT2]

As soon as i can figure out how to use my digital camera ill throw up some pics of the hatch drains,& the throttle body by pass & some other home made mods that work,,,,if you buy a new catalatic converter you can save 20 bucks buy just useing a foot of high temp silicone heater hose instead of the kit to connect the air tube to the converter,,,if ya bread the studs on your exhaust manifolds where it connect to the ehhaust pipe,just drill out the broken studs and use nuts & bolts