dumb question of the day - mounting engine on stand

[rrubel]

Pretty simple, really. I assume the engine bolts to the stand through the holes the transmission normally mounts to. But until I get the old engine out, I don't know what size they are, and I need to buy mounting bolts in preparation for the new engine's arrival. Anyone tell me what size I'll need? Any other gotchas I should watch for?

Thanks...
[RICHR]

 

[cablexpert]

The bolts you'll need are 3/8" and buy grade 8....measure the mounting collars on your stand and go at least 1" to 1 1/2" longer...that's about it rich

 

[Ken]

I thought you already had the engine built and in the car Rich. Did you build one while you were still driving the Vette? :confused

 

[rrubel]

Ken, i haven't driven the Vette since last fall . I was in the process of building up the stock motor when I found that piston problem, so now I'm buying a short block, taking off the few pieces I'd put on the old motor, finishing the new one out on the stand, then having the Vette towed to a shop and the motors swapped. Confused yet?

Cablexpert, thanks much. I'll give my local Fastenal a call - they can get anything in grade 8 easily.
[RICHR]

 

[jmccloud]

Engine stand bolts

Unless your engine stand has extra thick arms, the bolts that hold the trans to the engine should work well. Otherwise, get 1/2~3/4" longer than the thickness of your engine stand arms.

 

[rrubel]

Jmccloud, the problem is that I'll be building the new engine on the stand before the old is out of the car, so I won't have access to those original bolts... I think the stand does have really thick arms, though - it supposedly holds 1250 lbs, way overkill but cheap.
[RICHR]

 

[WhalePirot]

Also, try to mount the block somewhat centered on the stand's pivot, for ease of rotation while working on the top and the bottom sections. It makes for a better center of gravity, which GREATLY eases the block's rotation that the stand provides.

Whatcha get? A cheap, chinese-made stand? Watch that metallurgy! Their stuff appears rugged, but may not be too strong. Ask me about my huge bench vise; just ask! LOL

What's up with the headers? Will they clean up and be okay?

 

[cablexpert]

1/2" ? I'd prefer at least an inch into the block....a full dressed sm. blk. weighs around 550#....btw Rich mailed your money for the lever yesterday...Bob

 

[tnovot]

Rich -
Everything Cable said except I'd also grab a handful of 3/8" washers - at least 4 of them - 8 would be better.
I couldn't get grade 8 so used grade 5 with no problem. Didn't have the weight of the heads as I put them on after engine installation. (Easy to do since I was rebuilding 350 on my T-Bucket)
Good luck on your "continuing" project. You'll now have peace of mind and will be glad you didn't try to use the old engine with the broken piston and other unknown problems.
Terry

 

[rrubel]

Ok... I'll bite! Tell me about your vice, er viSe...

The potential of cheap metalwork is one reason why I bought a stand rated for 1250 lbs... I figure if they claim 1250, I should be able to safely hit 800 without any issues. It doesn't look too bad; it's better than some of the "domestic" ones I saw at the local parts shop.

I think the headers should be OK; I have to take them to a local shop and get a Y-pipe fabricated. I want to get them Jet-Hot coated, but have to wait for the $$ (I've already borrowed from an "untouchable" savings account for the engine). Soon... Still have that radiator, too. I doubt I'm going to use it; want me to try and sell it and send you the money?

Terry, yes I'll have peace of mind... and pieces of wallet . I know it's for the best. As long as the short block is built right, it should be bulletproof for a good while.

550 lbs sounds high for a small block engine. The block itself is only 150 lbs, and the rotating assembly can't add more than another 50, max. AL heads are about 20 each, and my intake is maybe another 25. Even with the headers on, and a fudge factor, that's still under 300 lbs. I'm getting the numbers from Mike Antonicks' Cor-vette specs book. Mine won't have the smog/ac/PS stuff on; it'll still be in the car.
[RICHR]

 

[WhalePirot]

Not really all that big of a deal. The screw parts that close the jaws of the vise are of cast metal and while the vise is huge and as heavy as it looks; seemingly indestructible, the truth is that I have to be careful of the amount of torque that I crank during a squeeze, lest the whole thing become a boat anchor, again.

Glad the headers seem okay; sorry the radiator may not work for you. If you can sell it, splitting the cash seems fair, if you're amenable. Thanks.

Actually, I bought (then sold) a Chinese engine stand for my 406 build-up. While not as nice as the previous US-made stand of some years ago, it got me through this (hopefully) one-time project*. If I ever do my '55 Effy, perhaps with a stroker L-83 from my C-4, I'll get another stand. Cheaper to buy and sell, than rent; for sure, for sure, pilgrim.

* unless my one vice: speed, breaks it

 

[rrubel]

That was my thought on the stand. I paid about $50, shipped, for it and even if it goes to the Salvation Army, it's cheaper than renting one (and the local free loaner place doesn't do stands).

Regarding the radiator, anything I get for it is yours - I never sent you any money for it, remember?
[RICHR]

 

[jmccloud]

Too long bolts

In 1964 a friend and I 'rebuilt' a 265 small block. During disassembly we threw the bolts into a box thinking it would be obvious where they belonged during reassembly.

Well, I put a bolt into the fuel pump (mounted onto the front passenger side of the block) that was 1/4" too long and it broke. It even had a helical break like we learned in mechanical engineering structural strength class. A bend or stretch produces a transverse or diagonal flat break. Torsion induced by bottoming a bolt produces a helical break surface. This helical break will occur at a small fraction of the torque required to pull the bolt apart lengthwise.

We spent weeks trying to 'easy-out' that bottomed out bolt. Even broke the easy-out. Couldn't drill the easy-out as it was harder than a drill. So we had to drill all around it. Finally got the bolt out and enlarged the hole and retapped it. No Ford could touch that car ('56 4 door hardtop with a 4:11 rear and PowerGlide).

Learn from the mistakes of others. If the hole in the block goes all the way thru, use any length. If it's a 'blind' hole, be very careful and use enough washers to prevent bottoming out.

Hope this helps, sorry to be so windy.

 

[rrubel]

That's good advice. I'll definitely keep on the shorter end of the bolt length...
[RICHR]