EFE system

[grpups]

Can someone confirm when the engine if not running that the exhaust heat valve is in the OPEN position? The valve is suppose to CLOSE whenever vacuum is applied. If this is the case, the valve should always remain OPEN if I disconnect the actuator rod and/or the vacuum hose at the actuator. I read an earlier post that someone removed their EFE system and tack welded the valve open. Why would this be necessary? Thanks.

Note: I removed my A.I.R. system and noticed the difference in performance. Hopefully I get more of the same when I eliminate the EFE system.

 

[grpups]

Can someone confirm the heat exhaust valve is in the OPEN position when the engine is NOT running? I can't find any OPEN or CLOSE position indicators on the valve. I noticed the position changed when I started up the car. If the valve should CLOSE when vacuum is applied, I assume the NORMAL position of the valve is in the OPEN position. If this true, I shouldn't have to do anything to the valve is I disconnected the vacuum hose at the actuator. I read an earlier post (can't find it) that someone tack welded his valve open because he couldn't find a "doughnut" that fit where the valve is. Is this necessary? I plan on disconnecting the EFE system. Thanks.......

 

[brusso]

I read an earlier post (can't find it) that someone tack welded his valve open because he couldn't find a "doughnut" that fit where the valve is. Is this necessary? I plan on disconnecting the EFE system. Thanks.......

I can't remember if that was me that posted, but that is what I had done. I had it tack welded open so that it wouldn't flutter and break off and get jammed in the pipe someplace. I think that it may have been over kill, but gave me some peace of mind.

 

[grpups]

I can't remember if that was me that posted, but that is what I had done. I had it tack welded open so that it wouldn't flutter and break off and get jammed in the pipe someplace. I think that it may have been over kill, but gave me some peace of mind.

thanks brusso.....i do believe it might have been your post....your I.D. looks familiar. maybe i'll just lockwire it open in the event i sell my car and reinstall all the original equipment.

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

you can remove the valve completely and replace it with a spacer. then you don't have worry about it at all. the blade pins on mine rusted through and the blade fell over the opening closing off about 80% of the pipe. the spacer is like $6.00, just run the chance of breaking the three exhaust studs. Brian

 

[grpups]

you can remove the valve completely and replace it with a spacer. then you don't have worry about it at all. the blade pins on mine rusted through and the blade fell over the opening closing off about 80% of the pipe. the spacer is like $6.00, just run the chance of breaking the three exhaust studs. Brian

where can i buy a spacer? thanks.........

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

i got one from NAPA. imagine that, "no auto parts available" actually had something i needed. almost every GM vehicle from that time uses the same valve, gotta love Leggo parts. Brian

 

[photovette]

Not overkill--my EFE butterfly valve did break off and get wedged in the flange--it burned up the motor; #6 & #8 cylinders were junk.

 

[brusso]

Not overkill--my EFE butterfly valve did break off and get wedged in the flange--it burned up the motor; #6 & #8 cylinders were junk.

Sorry about your loss. I'm glad that I did it now. (weld it open)

 

[photovette]

I took the butterfly off in the new EFE unit! I'm happy as heck with the new motor (a Grooms Engines 355 Performance Plus), so it was really almost a good thing!