How I did it
These shots are taken towards the 'gill' area,
former location of the battery, just forward of the left car door. Note that
the unit fits inside the curved body, mounted on a simple homemade bracket, Loctite-bolted through holes that I drilled, then threaded into the small, existing body brace. A thin rubber gasket provides limited shock mounting.
The rubber brake fluid suppy line, from the optional, polished billet reservoir feeds into the unit near the car's frame, forward on the unit. The high pressure line runs behind the unit, to the aftmost hole on the master cylinder. The other two holes feed the front and rear brakes. The front lines are 'Teed' as the stock master cylinder had two feed holes to the front brakes. All existing metric fittings were cut from the lines; replaced with 'standard' fittings, on the newly double flared, and slightly shortened, stock brake lines. All lines were easily bent by hand, around various curved tools, like sockets, to prevent crimping.
This placement seems optimum, with brakes lines and required electrical sources nearby. I tapped battery 12vdc and ignition-switched 12vdc from large gauge wires supplying one of the relays. The small, lightweight relay employed by this unit is mounted on the firewall, just above. I remounted the fuel pump and overdrive relays on newly drilled holes in the body brace, near the cruise control. They are much more securely mounted than when attached to the plastic inner fender.
I had to relocate the remote oil filter from this space, to the inside of the frame, just below this space. It remains well protected from road debris and is actually easier to reach, with less spillage, when changing.
I (and the guys who do this professionally) think it all turned out quite nicely. They took pictures and were complimentary. Actually, it all looks quite factory, donut?
The pump triggers ON if the ignition is ON, below 1200 psi at the reservoir (which supplies about 23 brake applications w/o a pump). The pump is a bit noisy, which I find comforting, given the lack of vacuum boost I was surprised with before.
The rod length, to the brake pedal is adjusted to give minimal movement before brake application, yielding a feel similar to the brakes on large trucks. It is quite assuring and very easy to 'learn'. I do not know how this would interact with an ABS equipped Corvette.
I feel the $900, (a couple hundred for the shiny billet) is well spent, considering I did not have to shell out big bucks for ZR-1 or other calipers, a larger booster and/or any other vacuum 'supplements'. If I start to do more racing, I MAY need better cooling calipers, but this car STOPS better than ever!
Force = Pressure x Area The pressure applied just climbed WAY up.
After all,whose ever even heard of such a thing, and here you guys are bantering back and forth like it's commonplace :L 
:s :L
