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emergency engine surgery!

thanks a great deal Frank, for all of your help and advice so far.
i think based on what you've said that i am going to be in for a lot of time consuming work. i can put her back together with the old 882 heads (if i don't get them machined i will need to pray they aren't cracked) and a thicker head gasket (.051?) after i get the new piston in. and she'll be drivable as long as i get the timing PERFECT. i've also been advised to use cooler spark plugs as well. i'm sure i will be able to make her drivable by this weekend, if i go that route. this means i'm looking at pulling the heads yet again as soon as i can afford new ones.
why does this crap hafta happen? whoa is me.
i'll have a talk with my father this evening and see if i can squeeze anymore help out of him.
i'll get back later.
 
i do not know enough about compression to make my own calculations. but based on the modifications to her, i've been told just over 10:1 but less than 10.5:1. those estimates were from 2 local hot-rod mechanics and by the (more reliable) tech support guys at Summit.

when we checked the chambers with a pressure sensor we were getting 120-128 psi on the well running cyclinders. don't know if that helps any.
 
Thats not too high . You shouldnt be having compression preoblems. Detination problems though you could be having. Cast heads hold more heat and and can contribute . You might find you have a worped head . Going with a thicker Head gasket will help. Also buy the best head gaskets you can . Fel pro is probably a good bet. I would think that with the low cyklinder pressure that you should pull all the pistons and check the rings. Myself ,i would never consider puting it back together knowing that pieces have come off some of the parts . I suppose they could have found there way out of the exhaust ,but I wouldnt think they all made it out . You dont want bearing failure. Thats a lot more costly .
 
the only apparent piece i can imagine wandering around is the part of the piston that broke. i will be checking everywhere possible when i drop the oil pan. things may get worse when i do. i hope not. as far as the gasket. the breaks in it appear to be burned through. my problem is detonation. it's going off when it doesn't need to be, and the timing played a major role in that.
my plan to eliminate that detonation is to get timing on perfectly, cool the spark plugs, cool the intake with aluminum manifold, (i have one, but not on) and then put heads on. i know i can get by with what i have, but i don't want to risk it, i want to do it right. therein lies my struggle.
if i can raise the compression lightly with 64cc combustion chamber heads, yet prevent detonation by cooling and running better heads. than i have a great option in Vortec. my friend claims to be able to get a ste of vortec heads very cheap. i'm gonna look into that and get back.
 
I had a ring cross over to the other side on a 396. I know the pressure to get the car back on the street, but you might go through all of this and then find you have nothing.

Follow the advice here, to check the rest of the engine out. Know what you're really in for and then decide what to do.

It IS only a car; not the end of the world. Take it easy on yourself. I've been there, too, and I lived through it.

I have an extra used pair of '84 heads that have the larger Manley valves (ex-2.02 in-1.8?) and were cleaned up for flow. Details on them otherwise I don't know.

Would they work? That engine spun a bearing, but ran well, otherwise.

:w
 
On the detenation subject, i dont know what carb your running, but i would richin it up a jet or two and back off the timing to about 32 total. It will help cool the the combustion and lower temps . Aluminum heads really helpl in this aspect . Can run more timing, more fuel and without the high possibility of the detonation monster biting.i have the AFR 195's with a full portjob.Oh BTW, I have a 383 also . 10:1.
 
ok, thanks, it's good to get the compression numbers. i've been told to back the timing off all the way to 37. i have a q-jet and i will take ur advice and richen it up some.
i have to pull the pan and get the stinkin' piston weighed before i can reorder one. so i will prolly find myself working on it late tomorrow pulling it out. but i will be frantically searching for a set of heads. i think my dad is gonna throw me a lil' more $$$ help. it's quite a hassle taxiing around ur 20 year old son everywhere.
he's been great so far. he cares about my car as much as i do and he works hard on it with me even though he's just as busy an just as strapped for $$ as i am.
thanks for your help and advice once again.
i'll get back as soon as i find heads i guess.
 
1Down6togo

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, me and my fiance are trying to tackle as much as we can for our wedding before school goes into full swing (which I think we've reached).

In Chevy High Performance in the back section there is a company that sells

"Stock GM Heads" for 324.99, it doesn't indicate if its for the pair or single but on the following section it states "HP GM Heads 474.99pr"

Here are the specs for the "stock"heads
58/64/76cc's
reconditioned with new valves/springs/locks/seals/3 angle valve job/mileed for flatness

"HP GM heads"
58/64/76cc's
1.94/1.5 or 2.02/1.60 valves
magnafluxed/bronze guids/3ang valve job/resurfaced/stage 1 port/ cut for screw in studs and guide plates, stainless steel valves and .510 lift springs

the number is 18007224645
free shipping on all heads

looks they might have what you NEED to get your car running again. That takes care of the top, now worry about the bottom

GL

Frank
 
/maxrevs85 ... On the detenation subject, i dont know what carb your running, but i would richin it up a jet or two and back off the timing to about 32 total. It will help cool the the combustion and lower temps . Aluminum heads really helpl in this aspect

Ditto

/sam ... so far my car is in the hospital an undertermined amount of time.

Factory 882 heads that have not been modified have about 76cc chambers (large). If needed, VERY Gently buff piston tops off ... look for part numbers ... though sometimes they're stamped into underside. With a piston part number & head casting number & known rod length & known stroke & measure how far down in cylinder ... we can look up piston specs & then use a calculator to do a fair estimate of your present compression ratio (maybe that's what Summit tech did).

BTW, for a daily driver I recommend less than 10:1 CR with Iron heads. Only as a last resort would I recommend really thick head gaskets to reduce CR ... proper quench height should be maintained. I also have an unmodified late model Lincoln making 10:1 CR with Aluminum heads; it has a sophisticated fuel & ignition management system ... but it spark rattles like crazy on 87 octane!

I just don't think the TYPE combustion chamber of heads you have caused your problem. I'd look to the condition of the heads' surface & the block's surface ... again I'd also check combustion chambers & bores closely for cracks/leaks. I'm also leaning toward detonation/spark rattle as cause of failure ... maybe not enough ignition advance ... or too much comp ... for your combo.
JACK:gap
 
1Down6toGo,

If you can do an engine swap, have you considered putting in another engine just to get you up and running? I have a running L48 that I took out of my '80 that should bolt right up. it ain't a 383 stroker, but right now, it runs better than what cha got. I'm looking for a buyer, the only problem is finding a shipper... Let me know if you want to kick around the idea..
 
/JACK ... maybe not enough ignition advance
My bad! I mis-spoke. I meant to say "maybe too much ignition advance." ... See what too much theraflu & robitussin'll do?
JACK:gap
 
How's your car coming along?!

Have you found a "quick fix"?
 

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