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Engine Noise

jonn454

Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
Messages
11
Location
denham springs, la.
Corvette
1996 collector's edition convertible
I just took my 96 out for a little run after a few minor repairs, nothing to do with the engine. I "got on it" a bit when I took off, and when I slowed I noticed a "tapping" sound from the engine. It "taps" with the speed of the engine, so I'm thinking I really screwed something up inside. Does this sound like a familiar problem? A neighbor said he thought it might be a lifter. Any suggestions?
 
I just took my 96 out for a little run after a few minor repairs, nothing to do with the engine. I "got on it" a bit when I took off, and when I slowed I noticed a "tapping" sound from the engine. It "taps" with the speed of the engine, so I'm thinking I really screwed something up inside. Does this sound like a familiar problem? A neighbor said he thought it might be a lifter. Any suggestions?


I would start with checking your oil level, and for any codes stored in the ECU. Does it run good at idle and have plenty of power, or does it run and idle poor?
 
Oil level good, runs great other than this knocking that just started, and that includes at idle!!! And, like I said, I had just gotten down on the throttle pretty hard from a stop, got it to about 65 and let off. I don't do that too often, by the way. Then, as soon as I let off, the knocking or tapping sound began. It definitely taps with the rate of the RPM, as it increases as I give it gas.
 
Without more info I'm going to go with a varnished lifter. Pour in a can of Marvel Mystery Oil in your oil. Follow directions cause you may have to drain out an equal amount of oil first. Once it's in just take here out for a gentle ride, and if I'm right the noise should go away after a few hours to a few days. You may keep the Marvel in there until your next oil change. This has worked on several GM's I've owned including my '95 C4. I'm sure other "experienced" wrenches will pipe in confirming this stuff works on sticking lifters due to varnish buildup. It sounds like a joke but this is not. Good luck.
 
Without more info I'm going to go with a varnished lifter. Pour in a can of Marvel Mystery Oil in your oil. Follow directions cause you may have to drain out an equal amount of oil first. Once it's in just take here out for a gentle ride, and if I'm right the noise should go away after a few hours to a few days. You may keep the Marvel in there until your next oil change. This has worked on several GM's I've owned including my '95 C4. I'm sure other "experienced" wrenches will pipe in confirming this stuff works on sticking lifters due to varnish buildup. It sounds like a joke but this is not. Good luck.

I agree and have advised Mystery Oil to other folks that had mystery noises.:chuckle The stuff seems to loosen gunk and varnish and help clean the combustion area. I also add a few oz to the gas every few months or when I know that I'm going to be pushing the motor in extremes. The oil in the gas provides added top-end lube and helps keep valve guides/seals clean. When a lifter (basically a small hydraulic cylinder) sticks it can fall short of its minimum height and this can cause a mild "tic" as that valve cycles. Its the same noise that solid lifters make when they need adjustment. Hydraulic rollers are supposed to expand enough to keep that gap filled, when they are clean and working right.

If you had damaged a rod bearing the noise would be more metalic, and more of a rapping against solid metal...very distigushable from a tic. Your injectors will also Tic as they cycle and that sounds alot like a mild lifter tic. MM Oil in the gas....just a few oz unless your Cats ran away.
 
Very cool....your responses give me much hope! Where can I get this stuff? Auto Zone, Wal Mart, or similar place?

I really wish I good give more information, but that's really it. It's a "tap", "tap", "tap" or a "knock", "knock", "knock" that coincides with the RPM's. That's it, other than the fact it started just after I got on the throttle a bit. Also, it does not seem to be affecting my power or engine in any way, even at idle.

The only other thing I can say is that it sounds like it's "high" in the engine. By that I mean that the sound seems to be coming from close to the top and not a "deep" sound.
 
I don't know how many miles are on your engine, or how it was maintained, but if it were me and the ticking was fairly loud, I'd identify if it is coming from one or the other valve cover and pull it to check for damage. I've seen rockers pop off and turn sideways and ones were the push rods went through the ends.

If I develop a slight annoying tick, first thing I do is change the oil.
If that doesn't solve it and it's still a minor somewhat quiet tick, I'd go with the Marvel. I've only ever used Marvel once in a car and that was a '74 Duster with a slant six. It worked fine, but that engine was very neglected during it'f life.
 
Whoa, guys...

Be very careful of "Marvel Mystery" oil in a modern engine. Some of the comments you read on the internet about products such as Seafoam and Marvel Mystery oil are pure BS.

It would be better to do a more detailed analysis of the noise before you go looking for a "mechanic in a can". Such an analysis should include using a good listening device such as the Lislie 52750 automotive stethoscope.

First, if the problem is valvetrain, you're going to hear the noise at half the speed of the engine because for each two crankshaft rotations the camshaft rotates once. If the noise is coming at the speed of the engine, then you need to consider sources other than the valvetrain.

Second, it's possible there could be a stuck lifter but, it is less likely if the engine has a low or modest amount of miles on it than it is if it's high mileage. Also, if the engine's been maintained properly (ie: regular oil and filter changes with good oil) it's less likely the problem is a stuck or "varnished" lifter.

Third, if this noise began after some high rpm, high load use, I'd would be looking more for engine damage rather than a stuck lifter.

Lastly, if you're going insist on pour-in additives, know that Marvel is basically a low viscosity oil with a very high detergent content. Other products may contain solvents. Either of these significantly decreases oil viscosity and, since you're probably already using a 5W30 you want to be very careful how you run the engine after you introduce a product that reduces viscosity. I would add the product to the engine then start it and let it idle for a while. You can drive the car but I'd run the engine at light load and low rpm and not allow the oil temp to get much over 200 deg.

After a short period with that stuff in the crankcase, I'd change the oil and filter.

if the noise is unchanged, I'd look for engine damage.

FYI, just recently, I had a friend in my club with a 93, which developed an engine noise. While the noise was coming from the lower rear of the engine, I ID"ed it as a valvetrain problem. He had others look at it and they decided it was the dual mass flywheel. He spend a ton of money and time on a new dual mass wheel and that wasn't it. They finally rebuilt the motor and on teardown, found the #8k intake lifter and cam lobe had failed. The message here is diagnose first, then act.
 
a good listening device such as the Lislie 52750 automotive stethoscope.
Another tool that may work, for the less-tool-equipped, is a ratchet extension or solid screwdriver, held to an ear. It takes some experience to learn what sounds are what, and they really travel in a metallic medium, like an engine. One hears whirrings, ticks and all sorts of things through those listening devices.
 
I agre with "WhalePirot" that it's one thing to listen but another to know what noises mean trouble and what do not.

The reason I suggest the Lisle stethoscope is for many years, I use a 24" extension suck in my ear to hear engine noise. Then, a few years ago, I had a very challenging troubleshooting session with an engine noise, and the help me, I purchased that Lisle too. Man...huge difference. Not only could I hear the noise better, but the design of the tool also helps filter out other noises. Once again...the right tools for the job...
 
I agre with "WhalePirot" that it's one thing to listen but another to know what noises mean trouble and what do not.

The reason I suggest the Lisle stethoscope is for many years, I use a 24" extension suck in my ear to hear engine noise. Then, a few years ago, I had a very challenging troubleshooting session with an engine noise, and the help me, I purchased that Lisle too. Man...huge difference. Not only could I hear the noise better, but the design of the tool also helps filter out other noises. Once again...the right tools for the job...

A properly fitted section of vac or fuel hose works very well also...
find the size of the ear, so the tube/hose will fit just inside, hold other end of hose against various engine areas. The detail of the sound is amazing when thats the only sound thats able to enter that ear. Plug other ear with whatever is handy...tissue or foam plug.


I am a bit concerned about the OP's use of the word 'tap' & 'knock' ..... tics are almost always defined as ticking...because they are so lite and more like a rythmic clicking..
When someone says tap or knock.....that indicates a more solid malfunction, to me.

If my math is correct (yeah, sure):ugh @ 600 rpm idle the one bad lifter should be cycled about every 1.15 seconds?
..... maybe a little less than that...so the noise should be about that speed IF its valve train.

If the noise were at twice that speed it would be crankshaft related...spun bearing or big-end rod. 4 times would be cam bearing. AGAIN, this is based on a totally calculator dependent brain...minus the calculator:chuckle
 
OK guys this is old school but try it. If your car is an automatic start it up let it warm up then put it in gear and with your foot on the brake rev it up to 1300 to 1500 rpm. If the problem is in the bottom end of the motor you will FEEL it not just hear it. Hope this helps.
 

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