M
matchframe
Guest
vethead,
I bought my epoxy from the local Sherwin Williams Paint store. I went there asking all the questions that I could think of. (I don't think that you can over-research....I do the same thing on just about everything I do.) I told them what I wanted to do, and they actually tried to talk me out of it because of getting the taping right. They sold me the materials any way. When I stopped by with pictures, they were almost speechless at the results. They still send people over to ask questions about how I laid the squares out. The total cost in materials were about $350. The real cost in my mind was the time invested in laying it all out; it took about two weeks of working every hour I could in the evenings of taping it off. I drew quite an audience as well from the neighbors "walking their dogs" I did not know there were so many dogs in the neighborhood! My house is the first one in the subdivision, so everybody drives past on their way home from work, and got curious as to what I was doing. They would see me laying flat on the floor eyeing how straight the lines were that I had laid out.
67,
How I got started laying the square out was I found the very center of the room by measuring. Then I laid a tape down from end to end crossing the center. This became my line of reference. I laid out the squares working from the center out. I was just using a 2-foot roofing square as a taping reference. Since I use just the one tool, as I laid the tape out, sometimes when I would put the last tape down for a particular square, it would not be at a true 90 degree to the first angle. I had to keep going back and forth relaying the tape and trimming it with a razor, then I would tape the paper in place where the white square was going to be. After I finished taping, I spent another day just going over each square to make sure it was at a true 90 degree. There were some areas that were very close, but I thought they would not be noticed, so I let them slide. After painting, they became more obvious to me. Most people try to look for them, but cannot find them until I point it out. It really not very obvious, it’s just that I know they are there. They key to making it not so obvious is to make sure all of the corners are touching. If the line is out of square, it is unnoticable unless you stand back and look down the entire line and see it veer one way or the other.
As far as pulling the tape up, what I did according to the advice from Sherwin Williams is as soon as I rolled the paint on, I started pulling the tape up at the end where I first rolled the paint on. By the time I was pulling the tape up, the paint had set maybe 20 to 30 minutes. They had told me if I let it stay down until the paint was dry that when I did pull the tape up, it would also pull up some of the paint. So when I did pull the tape up, the paint was still fresh enough to let go of the tape, but cured enough to stay in a straight line. No of it ran. I did not have to touch any area up.
Jay,
I highly recommend it, but it is very involved as far as time invested. The paint is rock hard and looks like it will last a really long time. The money invested is pretty minimal considering what industrial tiles cost, and they sometimes crack under heavy workloads.
Bill
I bought my epoxy from the local Sherwin Williams Paint store. I went there asking all the questions that I could think of. (I don't think that you can over-research....I do the same thing on just about everything I do.) I told them what I wanted to do, and they actually tried to talk me out of it because of getting the taping right. They sold me the materials any way. When I stopped by with pictures, they were almost speechless at the results. They still send people over to ask questions about how I laid the squares out. The total cost in materials were about $350. The real cost in my mind was the time invested in laying it all out; it took about two weeks of working every hour I could in the evenings of taping it off. I drew quite an audience as well from the neighbors "walking their dogs" I did not know there were so many dogs in the neighborhood! My house is the first one in the subdivision, so everybody drives past on their way home from work, and got curious as to what I was doing. They would see me laying flat on the floor eyeing how straight the lines were that I had laid out.
67,
How I got started laying the square out was I found the very center of the room by measuring. Then I laid a tape down from end to end crossing the center. This became my line of reference. I laid out the squares working from the center out. I was just using a 2-foot roofing square as a taping reference. Since I use just the one tool, as I laid the tape out, sometimes when I would put the last tape down for a particular square, it would not be at a true 90 degree to the first angle. I had to keep going back and forth relaying the tape and trimming it with a razor, then I would tape the paper in place where the white square was going to be. After I finished taping, I spent another day just going over each square to make sure it was at a true 90 degree. There were some areas that were very close, but I thought they would not be noticed, so I let them slide. After painting, they became more obvious to me. Most people try to look for them, but cannot find them until I point it out. It really not very obvious, it’s just that I know they are there. They key to making it not so obvious is to make sure all of the corners are touching. If the line is out of square, it is unnoticable unless you stand back and look down the entire line and see it veer one way or the other.
As far as pulling the tape up, what I did according to the advice from Sherwin Williams is as soon as I rolled the paint on, I started pulling the tape up at the end where I first rolled the paint on. By the time I was pulling the tape up, the paint had set maybe 20 to 30 minutes. They had told me if I let it stay down until the paint was dry that when I did pull the tape up, it would also pull up some of the paint. So when I did pull the tape up, the paint was still fresh enough to let go of the tape, but cured enough to stay in a straight line. No of it ran. I did not have to touch any area up.
Jay,
I highly recommend it, but it is very involved as far as time invested. The paint is rock hard and looks like it will last a really long time. The money invested is pretty minimal considering what industrial tiles cost, and they sometimes crack under heavy workloads.
Bill
