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even the simple stuff I can make difficult

Ray, armourall on it (even though I've NEVER used it on this car ever - I hate the stuff - I can't answer for previous owners) even after been bead blasted taking all the old paint off? Well, I'll try your technique anyway.

Bernie & Herb, moisture beading out of stamped steel metal parts??

Steppinwolf, I think you may have hit on something here. I didn't wipe the Acryli-clean off, I let it air dry off itself. I was under the impression that it dried off without leaving any type of residue from itself remaining on the part which is why it was suppose to be a good pre-paint cleaner. I used a fairly good amount of it to wipe it down with and than let it airdry without wiping it off. I'll definitely not do that anymore. Thanks!
You know, when I was young I used to repaint using spray paint my old dirt bikes and go-karts almost every year and never once did I ever use a prepaint cleaner like I'm using now and I never had a bit of trouble which is why this has been making me crazy. This is why I think you nailed the issue here and by me leaving it on to dry off rather than wiping it off myself.

Thanks all! :beer
 
The glass beading went well. :) You can hang out at my place anytime, Barry.

I'd try wiping with lacquer thinner to remove contaminants. I'd also make sure the parts are warm. Vinegar works well to remove silicone (ArmorAll).

I don't use primers under rattle can paints unless I'm trying to fill pits, etc.

Also, there could have been some contaminants within my glass beader...from beading other parts. You get grease/oil contamination, and that could be part of the problem too. Chuck
 
Chuck, It was great coming down to your home and your generosity was wonderful! Thank you again.

I never thought of containination coming from the cabinet and glass beads themselves.

I'll remove the new messed up paint with the lacquer thinner, re-clean with the Acryli-clean, wiping it off afterwards this time, and make sure the parts and the paint are both warm.
I think that should cover all the issues and eliminate problems.
 
CABINET CONTAMINATION

Barry,

Don't take it for granted that putting the parts through the blast cabinet ( those that recycle ) will assure you a clean, paint-able surface. With all due respect to Chuck's blast cabinet, where do you think the residue of " grease, oil, silicon, etc." of previous blastings go with these type of recycling units.

SURPRISE, :duh they go right back into the media, to be re-used once again.

With mine, over the years I have learned to completely clean , and de-grease, any parts that are to be put through my unit, and even then,,,,:ugh

Stepinwolf
 
If you'll remember the post about me painting VNV's dash console, I had the same problem with fish eyes. It happens very frequently in my experience. Sometimes you simply can't get the comtaminants off. However, in my experience, the largest single contributor (assuming one does a decent job of surface prep) to fish eyes is TOO MUCH PAINT.

Sometimes, when doing detail work with a rattle can, you get lucky. Most of the time, 'way too much paint is applied. A craftsman painter can avoid these issues by careful mixing and technic with a gun. They can apply fairly heavy coats. The rest of us are left with fish eyes.

You have probably cleaned the parts as well as you can. For the first coat, just fog the surface so that it starts showing some color. Then wait an hour. Or wait a day, whatever. Add successive light coats and you will NOT get fisheyes.

It took me two hours to build up an even surface on VNV's dash. I JUST LOVE AmorAll.
 
Step, I understand what you are saying. It was not something I had considered but once it's mentioned it makes perfect sense. It's reasons like this that almost everything I do on this car, I have to do twice. The first time is the "lesson" of how not to do it and to learn what and why it went wrong, and the second time (third in this case) to get it done correctly.
for me at this point of just learning to work on the car EVERYTHING is a learning experience.

Kid, I can see your point. I know to spray with light coats but no matter how hard i try, at times using spray cans it does come out and lay on heavier than I wanted. Other times I can spray just how I like it but at the oddest moment than I find it just went on too heavy.
In this case, it fisheye'd on me the INSTANT the first light coat hit the metal.
I'm glad you like Amorall because I despise the stuff myself and won't have it anywhere near any of my cars. When I was younger is used tons of it though thinking it was the best thing since sliced bread. I remember when my dad had his brand new '79 Vette and I 13 or 14yo. One day I was cleaning his car and used Arorall all over the interior including the leather seats. He went to get in it later that day and put his butt against the back of the seat to slowly slide down into the car as was his normal method and the seat was so slipperly from Amorall he just fell into the car FAST! He wasn't too thrilled with me about that. :D
 
I'm painting a lot of small parts too, like the pulleys, etc. I wipe them down good with lacquer thinner then heat them up real good with a torch to get all the moisture out of the metal and burn off any impurities on the surface.

Then I give the part a good coat of spray primer. Primer is what keeps the fish eyes out. After the primer is dry, I topcoat the part with a light mist coat of color, followed by a full coat.

When that is dry, if the part is small enough, I put it in the toaster oven I have in the garage for 1/2 hour @ 160 degrees, which makes the paint rock hard. Works for me. My 2 cents. PT
 
I've never had a problem when using copious amounts of lacquer thinner and/or Acetone. Be sure to follow the instructions carefully about several LIGHT coats of paint instead of a few heavy coats.

One time I painted a radiator shroud in my basement which was about 55 degrees. The paint nevery fully dried so I had to strip it. I put a space heater down there at 75 degrees and painted the next day. No problems.


Brian
 
ZRGator said:
12 pages, tops. I'm voting for 12 pages, Bob. Shall we start a pool?:D


I am also going to vote for 12 pages, :D
 
Kid_Again said:
If you'll remember the post about me painting VNV's dash console, I had the same problem with fish eyes. It happens very frequently in my experience. Sometimes you simply can't get the comtaminants off. However, in my experience, the largest single contributor (assuming one does a decent job of surface prep) to fish eyes is TOO MUCH PAINT.

Sometimes, when doing detail work with a rattle can, you get lucky. Most of the time, 'way too much paint is applied. A craftsman painter can avoid these issues by careful mixing and technic with a gun. They can apply fairly heavy coats. The rest of us are left with fish eyes.

You have probably cleaned the parts as well as you can. For the first coat, just fog the surface so that it starts showing some color. Then wait an hour. Or wait a day, whatever. Add successive light coats and you will NOT get fisheyes.

It took me two hours to build up an even surface on VNV's dash. I JUST LOVE AmorAll.


Yes I must say that the Kid did a very nice job... And..he only use 3.5 Gallons of paint on the center console. It did take 2 hours to build up the 3/4 inch thick coating...but guess what...... No Fish Eyes..:D
 
Sorry BarryK..

the comment about AmourAll was meant to be a bit sarcastic..the stuff is a mess because it's tough to remove

I have to say that on bare metal (as opposed to the interior garnish and dash), I've just not had the problem that you experience. I think you really cleaned it well enough.
 
Viet Nam Vett said:
Yes I must say that the Kid did a very nice job... And..he only use 3.5 Gallons of paint on the center console. It did take 2 hours to build up the 3/4 inch thick coating...but guess what...... No Fish Eyes..:D


Now, now. According to MY sources, they ALL came from the factory that way.

BTW, Tom DeWitt says hello. I bought the electric fan for the small block and he made me girlie out on the big block conversion - mumbled something about the Harrison radiator that I use. OK, fine. I'll stick with the direct drive fan on the big block..for now.

OK, hope this gets the page count up into the 20's.
 
stepinwolf said:
Barry,

Don't take it for granted that putting the parts through the blast cabinet ( those that recycle ) will assure you a clean, paint-able surface. With all due respect to Chuck's blast cabinet, where do you think the residue of " grease, oil, silicon, etc." of previous blastings go with these type of recycling units.

SURPRISE, :duh they go right back into the media, to be re-used once again.

With mine, over the years I have learned to completely clean , and de-grease, any parts that are to be put through my unit, and even then,,,,:ugh

Stepinwolf

Moi? MY glass bead cabinet is <gulp> contaminated? :D

You're 100% right. The grease, Armor All, oil, and other crap is somewhat recirculated. I'd try the lacquer thinner, the "heat trick" and maybe even some white vinegar (which is great for removing Armor All) Chuck
 
ChuckG said:
Moi? MY glass bead cabinet is <gulp> contaminated? :D

You're 100% right. The grease, Armor All, oil, and other crap is somewhat recirculated. I'd try the lacquer thinner, the "heat trick" and maybe even some white vinegar (which is great for removing Armor All) Chuck

Hi Chuck. :w

Barry,
This is another great thread. :upthumbs You sure Rob ain't paying you to start these things? ;)
 
no Bob, I come up with them all on my own.

but now that you mention it, with all the attention and response I seem to get on my threads, even on ones like this where I hadn't even asked questions and was just venting, a lot of great info seems to come out of them. I think you should talk to Rob and get me a raise. I can get paid on the number of responses per thread I generate! ;LOL
 
Shhhhh!!!!!!!

I'm watching Larry King and Hugh Hefner is on, talking about the ups and downs of living with three Playmates.

Yup, pretty much just an average guy.:dance
 
JL66REDCPE said:
Sounds like you now have a heater and radio delete type center console.


:D


Right You Are There John..... Also have added about 63 LBS of Paint weight requiring a front coil spring upgrade......:D
 

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