Viet Nam Vett said:Right You Are There John..... Also have added about 63 LBS of Paint weight requiring a front coil spring upgrade......
Your aluminum heads cover that, no prob.
even the simple stuff I can make difficult
- Thread starter BarryK
- Start date
Your aluminum heads cover that, no prob.
- Thread starter
- #42
thanks for all your help everyone, I think I got it this time around.
I used lacquer thinner to remove the messed up paint. than I cleaned it off real good with the acryli-clean and wiped it off again and let any remaining residue dry off.
both the paints and the parts have been inside the house for over 24 hours so were nice and warm at room temperature.
Than I took primer (thanks Larry) and very, very lightly kinda dry-dusted the first two coats on of the primer (thanks Ray) than barely increasing the amount on the third primer coat so the parts were fully covered but not heavily. it took all three primer coats to cover the parts.
After letting the third primer coat dry real well I started with the paint and again very lightly only dry-dusted it for the first coat. the second light coat was enough to finish covering both parts.
now i'm waiting for the second coat to finish drying and in the morning i'll finish up with the third coat of paint and i'll be done.
so far they look just fine. no fisheyes finally!
i still think it's odd this happened only on these two parts while all the other parts I repainted with no problems at all on the first try.
oh well, always something to keep me on my toes.
I used lacquer thinner to remove the messed up paint. than I cleaned it off real good with the acryli-clean and wiped it off again and let any remaining residue dry off.
both the paints and the parts have been inside the house for over 24 hours so were nice and warm at room temperature.
Than I took primer (thanks Larry) and very, very lightly kinda dry-dusted the first two coats on of the primer (thanks Ray) than barely increasing the amount on the third primer coat so the parts were fully covered but not heavily. it took all three primer coats to cover the parts.
After letting the third primer coat dry real well I started with the paint and again very lightly only dry-dusted it for the first coat. the second light coat was enough to finish covering both parts.
now i'm waiting for the second coat to finish drying and in the morning i'll finish up with the third coat of paint and i'll be done.
so far they look just fine. no fisheyes finally!
i still think it's odd this happened only on these two parts while all the other parts I repainted with no problems at all on the first try.
oh well, always something to keep me on my toes.
Viet Nam Vett
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- Corvette
- 65 BB 502 Cp /MSD ATOMIC EFI/ 2009-HUMMER H2
67HEAVEN said:Your aluminum heads cover that, no prob.
Yeah...never thought about that.......
61 Silver
Well-known member
HI!
Barry, you now have some expertise with paint that you can pass on to a fellow Corvette owner.
Over 20 years ago I was a plant manager in a wood working factory. We would always control any products that would be used in the shop. We use to wax the top or the beds of our wood working machines with a good quality past wax. One of mill shop employees thought it better to use silicone spray for the machine tops and brought in a can from home. The small traces of silicone on the wood parts caused havoc when the products entered the finishing process, (lacquer). We sprayed lacquer from 50 gallon drums. We had many man hours to clean the equipment and developed a process to finish the contaminated wood products. One way we solved the problem was to use a barrier coat and very light sealer coats.
Ray
Barry, you now have some expertise with paint that you can pass on to a fellow Corvette owner.
Over 20 years ago I was a plant manager in a wood working factory. We would always control any products that would be used in the shop. We use to wax the top or the beds of our wood working machines with a good quality past wax. One of mill shop employees thought it better to use silicone spray for the machine tops and brought in a can from home. The small traces of silicone on the wood parts caused havoc when the products entered the finishing process, (lacquer). We sprayed lacquer from 50 gallon drums. We had many man hours to clean the equipment and developed a process to finish the contaminated wood products. One way we solved the problem was to use a barrier coat and very light sealer coats.
Ray
- Thread starter
- #45
Hi Ray
yep, it seems I'm learning somethng new almost everyday I work on this car.
the final coat is drying on those two parts. I noticed one little spot where I guess I got a bit carless on the waterpump pulley and at the very outside edge is a drop of paint. I guess the last coat got too heavy in that one area. Once it dries i'll sand it down smooth and spray it again to even it out and these parts will be done.
Now all I have to do is finish cleaning the block to get all the grease and dirt off than I can start painting that than it's time for reassembly.
i spent about an hour today already on it, Basically just spraying it down with brake cleaner than taking a rag and wiping it clean best as I can get it. Had to use a stiff brush to get some flaking paint off until I reached the edges where it stopped chipping than kept cleaning.
Painting the block has me real nervous because if I mess up it won't be so easy to fix it as the small parts were.
I'm going to mask off the rest of the engine bay best as I can with painters paper and tape to just leave the motor itself exposed. I was going to spray the engine to paint it but it was recommended that I get the h-temp engine enamel paint from Bill Hirsch Auomotive as it can be applied by hand (brush) and supposably it won't leave brush stroke marks after it dries. I got a quart of it so i'll find out if it works as advertised.
yep, it seems I'm learning somethng new almost everyday I work on this car.
the final coat is drying on those two parts. I noticed one little spot where I guess I got a bit carless on the waterpump pulley and at the very outside edge is a drop of paint. I guess the last coat got too heavy in that one area. Once it dries i'll sand it down smooth and spray it again to even it out and these parts will be done.
Now all I have to do is finish cleaning the block to get all the grease and dirt off than I can start painting that than it's time for reassembly.
i spent about an hour today already on it, Basically just spraying it down with brake cleaner than taking a rag and wiping it clean best as I can get it. Had to use a stiff brush to get some flaking paint off until I reached the edges where it stopped chipping than kept cleaning.
Painting the block has me real nervous because if I mess up it won't be so easy to fix it as the small parts were.
I'm going to mask off the rest of the engine bay best as I can with painters paper and tape to just leave the motor itself exposed. I was going to spray the engine to paint it but it was recommended that I get the h-temp engine enamel paint from Bill Hirsch Auomotive as it can be applied by hand (brush) and supposably it won't leave brush stroke marks after it dries. I got a quart of it so i'll find out if it works as advertised.
V
Vette66AirCoupe
Guest
This entire thread seems like an advertisement for powder coating! ( Now we're up to 4 pages 
)
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