Question: Ever changed a clutch DIY on 'stands?

[Hib Halverson]

How many here have changed the clutch in a C5, DIY'ing it and with the car on jackstands?

I'm interested to hear your experiences!

 

[zagger]

Answer is yes. You will need eight hands, two jacks, 57 band aids, and ample supply of blood pressure pills :W. Drooping the rear cradle was the biggest challenge. I don't know of any tricks, maybe it's why I had such a bear time of it. The clutch itself is very easy, getting to it is another story. I will never attempt to do it on my own again.:bash

 

[gmjunkie]

Answer is yes. You will need eight hands, two jacks, 57 band aids, and ample supply of blood pressure pills :W. Drooping the rear cradle was the biggest challenge. I don't know of any tricks, maybe it's why I had such a bear time of it. The clutch itself is very easy, getting to it is another story. I will never attempt to do it on my own again.:bash

I do it about once or twice a year!!I have to have a helper and 3 standard floor jacks!! I drop it with Cradle and Rear suspension all at once!! We still have all our fingers,and no band aids have been necessary!!

 

[Hib Halverson]

Why "3 standard jacks"?

Also, does using a transmission jack help, at all?

Lastly, how long does it take to get it out?

 

[gmjunkie]

Why "3 standard jacks"?

1 jack under the cradle on each side, 1 to set the front end of the torque tube on so I can get out and help pull it striate out the back from under the rear of the car!!(I usually change the fluids in the transmission and differential while it's out!)

Also, does using a transmission jack help, at all?

Mine Don't!!It still sets to high when down for it to roll out from under the car!!:W:W

Lastly, how long does it take to get it out?

I can have one up on stands,disconnected and out in about 1 1/2 - 2 hours!!

 

[Hib Halverson]

I haven't visted this thread in a while. Too busy with other stuff but I'd like to continue this if possibe.

Junk...I take it since you have three floor jacks available, you are a pro running a repair business. Yes?

If the car was on high enough stands, you think a trans jack would make the job easier?

 

[gmjunkie]

I haven't visted this thread in a while. Too busy with other stuff but I'd like to continue this if possibe.

Junk...I take it since you have three floor jacks available, you are a pro running a repair business. Yes?

I don't know about a pro anymore,But yes I do some Repair work for some people that want it right and Not Right Now!! I'm now actually a Independent Car Dealer that Specializes in Corvette and Classic GM Vehicles!! I do service and repair work on what I sell and some people on the forums!

If the car was on high enough stands, you think a trans jack would make the job easier?

Yeah,a transmission jack would be probly be a little less hassle,but mine just sets to high when completely down to get the top torque tube bolts out and the transmission and suspension out from under the car!!I need at least 2-3 more inches hight of the car!! My stands are heavy duty 8 ton and will extend to 26 1/2 inches tall!! My transmission jack sets 9 inches at the bed plate completely down,where my floor jacks set at about 3 inches completely down!! You will still need something at the front,although it's mostly aluminum it's heavy as hell and hard to balance!!!

 

[Hib Halverson]

What kind of trans jack do you have? I ask so, if I decide to get one, I can avoid that one?

About how long does it take you to R&R the clutch?

Do you do it per the FSM or do you have a different method?

 

[gmjunkie]

It's a older Heine Warrener,it's more suitable for 4X4 Trucks and Conventional type vehicles!!

 

[Key West Jack]

Check this out. Click on the clutch how to write up (removal and replacement) section:





http://www.cajundude.com/c5techhome.htm

 

[Hib Halverson]

Thanks for the continued interest of those posting to this thread.

 

[vettenuts]

I did it but I don't use jack stands. I use solid wood blocks like the boatyards use. Anyway, this is a post I put together on alignment of the torque tube. That was my biggest concern working alone on my back and it went very well. The other thing I forgot about was collapsing the lifters. Scared the crap out of me when I started it, but rotating the engine to torque the fasteners bleeds the lifters down. Also, if you have a FAST is should come off before starting on the clutch.

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Just wanted to post this up as a few people have asked how I did it. When I pulled the torque tube out of the bellhousing during disassembly, I slid it right back in to make sure the alignment still worked. The drive train was on two transmission jacks, one under the tranny and the other under the torque tube (as shown after removal in the first photo). I then slid the drive train back until the front end of the shaft was just out of the clutch disc. I then put two marks on the bottom of the cylindrical section of the torque tube, one at the front and one at the rear where the tranny is. Then I used my Black & Decker laser level and shot a line under the torque tube and using a carpenter's rule took measurements from the mark on the bottom of the torque tube to the light beam. In the second photo, you can see the level. I drew a line around it so I could re-locate it if it got moved. In the third photo, you can see the measurement (its a little blurry, I was having a hard time holding everything and taking a photo ). Both front and back were different and I wrote them down and carried on with the clutch removal. When I re-installed, I used the tranny jacks to get the torque tube in the same approximate location and then adjusted until I got my original measurements back. Then I measured the gap from the bellhousing to the torque tube flange at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions (side to side) until they were the same, moving the rear of the differential to correct. Once all the measurements were done and correct, I laid under the front of the torque tube (make sure the rotation is correct so the dowels will go into the bellhousing) and pushed the torque tube in until the shaft was just going into the clutch disc spines. Then pushing on the torque tube with very light pressure, I rotated the shaft with my fingers and you could feel it catch the splines in the clutch disc. Then the whole thing slid right in, effortlessly right to contact between the torque tube flange and the bellhousing. Installation, 15 seconds, measuring 90 minutes.

In the fourth photo, is the little jig I made to keep the shifter lock that is welded to the torque tube from catching on any brake lines. The service manual tells you to use a putty knife but I found this worked better.