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Exhaust for my '60 project car

firstgear

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Norwalk, Ohio
Corvette
15 Z06, 01 Vert, 63 SWC & 60 ALL RED
Have been promising for some time photos of my exhaust system. Bought the pipe and the chambered exhaust from Allens Exhaust out of Indiana. Good vendor to do business with.

Also bought the hugger headers from a vendor on Ebay. I am hoping I don't come to regret getting these. They were only about $80 as compared to almost $500 for something similar but a brand name from Summit. Like I said, I hope I don't regret it later.


Here are the photos.....had to modify the bracket slightly as well as the length of the SS pipe. The exhaust is 2.5" SS, 14 gauge! 14 gauge holy crap!

the pipe tucks under the frame in the front and does not hang as low as the bottom of the McCleod bell housing and scatter shield. You can see it hanging down (the gold colored radiused part behind the oil pan).

IMG_2343s-vi.jpg


the hugger headers came with a short chrome piece. I was able to tack weld the SS pipe to it and then took it to my trusty fabricator that really weleded it! they laughed at my chicken pecking welds.

IMG_2360s-vi.jpg


IMG_2357s-vi.jpg

The exhaust sits under the car. There is about 9 inches between the frame rail and the outside of the car. That is where this chambered exhaust sits. When the body is on the car, you can't see the chambered exhaust unless you stick you head down under the car. It tucks up very nicely.

IMG_2350s-vi.jpg


IMG_2353s-vi.jpg


Allen suggests turning the exhaust slightly outward to avoid having the exhaust kick up dust back under the car.
IMG_2351s-vi.jpg


The exhaust tip is right in front of the rear tire. I put the body back on the car before I sent it off to the body shop to make sure that this would look ok and have enough clearance every where. There might be a few places that I need to make some more clearance by using the old socket and hammer tirck. But for the most part everything clears just fine.

Stay tuned...more photos coming....

regards, Herb
 
Herb

Looks like they were built for the car,

Perfect length.

I think I am going to be ordering a set for my 62 but I am going to attempt to keep them under the car and have the exit the rear.

I just dont know if I need the bigger 3" one with the 2.5 insides or i I can use his standard size. You hear so much on how restrictive these are but the my 66 has them and that car has more power then I know what to do with.

Looks great so far when we going to see a picture with the intake on?
 
Looks great so far when we going to see a picture with the intake on?
I knew that was coming next.....I am surprised that it took you this long to ask!!! :rotfl

Not sure, perhaps I can get to that next weekend. I will see if my buddy Eddie can come over and play (he is good at this stuff). I have a lot to do to dress out the motor. Harry has said that he will want to have the frame back in a couple of weeks.

He want sto drop the body back down on it and see how everything lines up and to check for the mini "tub" he is putting in the rear.

I need to get a manifold gasket too, since the one that is there will get messed up in the process of taking off the old manifold. Is there a "special" manifold gasket I should get or will any manifold gasket work?

Herb
 
Though I normally am not a fan of side exit exhaust...that looks very good. I have been concerned about the heat generated next to the floor pan on my project. This moves the problem outside the frame where there is a little more ventilation... plus X frame or trans crossmember interference problems become a moot point. Good idea Herb .

One other thing I will look into if I go this route is a real good heat shield between the exhaust and the floor....that gets a lot simpler to do with your exhaust routing...and will make a big difference in this Texas heat.

Once again nice job Herb..

Regards...Stan M.
 
Though I normally am not a fan of side exit exhaust...that looks very good. I have been concerned about the heat generated next to the floor pan on my project. This moves the problem outside the frame where there is a little more ventilation... plus X frame or trans crossmember interference problems become a moot point. Good idea Herb .

One other thing I will look into if I go this route is a real good heat shield between the exhaust and the floor....that gets a lot simpler to do with your exhaust routing...and will make a big difference in this Texas heat.

Once again nice job Herb..

Regards...Stan M.
thanks Stan. One of the items discussed on here is "lizard skin coating". that is supposed to reduce the amount of heat transferred through a component (in this case the floor pan). I am contemplating having the bottom of the floor pan in this section coated with this prior to painting the top coat color......For what its worth.....

Herb
 
plus X frame or trans crossmember interference problems become a moot point.
that was primarily why I did it this way. I do not like the look of a side exhaust on C1 (to each their own). But with the exhaust tip tucked inside the back wheel well in front of the tire it looks good. If you recall I have the Ford 9" rear end with 4 link and panhard bar. the panhard bar offers a challenge for getting the exhaust up and over the rear end.

When I get a chance to find some photos (if I took any) of the side exhaust with the body on I will show those, otherwise when we drop the body to check for clearances I will take some then. Harry wanted to check for clearances and fit given all the body work he is doing to my car.

stay tuned....Herb
 
I have seen references to lizard skin ...I'm skeptical of the claims, but it sure can't hurt, and I'm sure I will use every thing that will help at all.

I have had to deal with many heat problems between header/exhaust and starter wiring, plastic fuel tanks, frame wiring, switching valves and the like.... that I have most times eliminated with metal shielding. There is some material used on motorhome doghouses that is like heavy waffled aluminum foil that I wish I had a source for...I have to hoard every scrap I can get my hands on...but it is the best insulator I have seen for very close to exhaust applications.

Aside from the interior heat discomfort...fiberglass can get hot enough to get charred through, at that point the carpet/glue on the inside can ignite... I have seen that twice, so I plan on adressing the possibility very vigorously.

I'm really surprised it doesn't happen much more often than it does.....as it seems that not many spend much time on shielding.

One other issue I was thinking about is that the exhaust heat might be sufficient to blister the paint on the rocker panel without some kind of shield even if nothing else was a problem.

I've had side pipes in the old days...it only takes one time to swing a bare leg out and touch one. They get very hot and the flesh is cooked instantly....can't be good for paint either. The metal shield on some side exhaust helps a lot but even then it's painful.

Like I said not many seem to address this issue ...so maybe the two issues I've seen are uncommon.....and the exhaust was mounted too close to the body in both cases. A mistake easily made for those accustomed dealing primarily with steel floor pans. (likely a muffler shop)

Best regards...Stan M.
 
...I would like to see those pics with the body on. I too don't care for the side pipes (anymore) after the burn issues to mysely and girl friends back in the day...

This looks like a very good answer for several clearance issues, including those you mentioned (without the burn danger).

I can't see any flaw in it ...other than the sound may not be as resonant without both exhaust exiting together. That will be more or less important to some than others....but likely worth the trade off depending on the cam choice, etc.


Regards...Stan M.
 
...I would like to see those pics with the body on. I too don't care for the side pipes (anymore) after the burn issues to mysely and girl friends back in the day...

This looks like a very good answer for several clearance issues, including those you mentioned (without the burn danger).

I can't see any flaw in it ...other than the sound may not be as resonant without both exhaust exiting together. That will be more or less important to some than others....but likely worth the trade off depending on the cam choice, etc.


Regards...Stan M.
might be a few weeks to get those photos...

Also, decided not to even bother putting a radio in the car. The side exhausts on my '64 365HP motor drown out any radio.....I figure this will sound very similar, hence no radio needed....

I too am worried about the heat and will probably put something there to reflect it away in some form or fashion.

Herb
 

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