7
78SilvAnniv
Guest
Pic of chambered exhaust system removed from vehicle.
Exhausts and mufflers
- Thread starter 1974vette
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Re: Getting New Exhaust System + Question
1) Crossover pipes (both X and H pipes) aren't primarily used just to change the sound of the exhaust. When you change the flow of exhaust, you alter the performance of the car. I don't recall the exact facts, but one of the setup produces more torque, the other produces more HP.
Each will change the final note that you hear out the rear. But bfore you go chopping pipes, I'd do a little more research. Ya know, once ya chop holes in your new exhaust...well...
You can always add it later...
2) Go with the 2½ inch pipes...
Roy said:
1) Crossover pipes (both X and H pipes) aren't primarily used just to change the sound of the exhaust. When you change the flow of exhaust, you alter the performance of the car. I don't recall the exact facts, but one of the setup produces more torque, the other produces more HP.
Each will change the final note that you hear out the rear. But bfore you go chopping pipes, I'd do a little more research. Ya know, once ya chop holes in your new exhaust...well...
You can always add it later...
2) Go with the 2½ inch pipes...
R
Roy
Guest
Dual Exhaust System is Installed
The original "X" system was removed last Thursday and a complete new system fabricated using 2 1/4" and 2 1/2" aluminized exhaust pipe, two free flowing cats, two free flowing mufflers and no crossover pipe.
Two 2 1/4" pipes were formed to run from the headers down to the individual cats and back through the two holes in the frame. The 2 1/4" tubing was used to help clear the automatic shift linkage, to provide ample clearance through the frame holes to allow for engine torque and movement and finally to create a bit of back pressure on the engine.
From the frame holes reaerward, 2 1/2" tubing was used to "open up" the systems breathing and sound resonance and to create a bit of draw from the engine. The polished stainless steel exhaust tips were 2 1/4", but I prefer the 2 1/2". The only seams in the system were at the connections to/from the cats and mufflers and these were mig welded.
As info, I am running a new GM crate engine rated at 330 HP with Hedman "Tight Tubes" header. The reason I went with the dual exhaust was because I needed a new cat installed and the $250 estimate was almost half the cost of the complete system. Besides, I always wanted dual exhausts since I was a teenager.
I did not expect a major power or torque boost and figured whatever I gained was icing on the cake.
I didn't really notice a great deal of difference at first, other than the sound. But the more I continued to "push" the engine, the more I noticed how fluid, torguey and smooth the engine ran. "It's my imagination" I thought, as everyone that spends $$$ wants to believe that there is an improvement. But the more I run the car and the harder I push it, the better the engine performs.
My recommendations to others would include: 1) Seek out a local exhaust expert to hand form, bend and create your new system. Kits are fine and easy to install, but I recommend that you participate in designing your own individual system and have it made specifically to suit your car and you. 2) When in doubt about whether or not to install cats, think about installing them. Today's cats are light weight (less than two pounds), well made and provide little restiction - plus they are inexpensive, costing about $75 each. In addition, the cats I purchased have a lifetime guarantee. The same thing with the mufflers, light weight and about $75 each. 3) Whatever system you decide upon, try to keep the exhaust pipes away from the rear differential. I have learned that prolonged exposure to the stock "X" system that is directly under the rear end differential can cause overheating and excelerated wear inside the differential. If you are curious about this problem, grab the top of either rear wheel and pull/push back and forth. If you feel and hear a bit of slop, chances are your rear end axle tips are worn. Change the differential oil and posi-traction additive every 10,000 miles to help avoid this problem.
That's about it. Thanks to evryone for their input and help. This Forum is more helpfull than a 1/2" breaker bar when it comes to working on Vettes.
The original "X" system was removed last Thursday and a complete new system fabricated using 2 1/4" and 2 1/2" aluminized exhaust pipe, two free flowing cats, two free flowing mufflers and no crossover pipe.
Two 2 1/4" pipes were formed to run from the headers down to the individual cats and back through the two holes in the frame. The 2 1/4" tubing was used to help clear the automatic shift linkage, to provide ample clearance through the frame holes to allow for engine torque and movement and finally to create a bit of back pressure on the engine.
From the frame holes reaerward, 2 1/2" tubing was used to "open up" the systems breathing and sound resonance and to create a bit of draw from the engine. The polished stainless steel exhaust tips were 2 1/4", but I prefer the 2 1/2". The only seams in the system were at the connections to/from the cats and mufflers and these were mig welded.
As info, I am running a new GM crate engine rated at 330 HP with Hedman "Tight Tubes" header. The reason I went with the dual exhaust was because I needed a new cat installed and the $250 estimate was almost half the cost of the complete system. Besides, I always wanted dual exhausts since I was a teenager.
I did not expect a major power or torque boost and figured whatever I gained was icing on the cake.
I didn't really notice a great deal of difference at first, other than the sound. But the more I continued to "push" the engine, the more I noticed how fluid, torguey and smooth the engine ran. "It's my imagination" I thought, as everyone that spends $$$ wants to believe that there is an improvement. But the more I run the car and the harder I push it, the better the engine performs.
My recommendations to others would include: 1) Seek out a local exhaust expert to hand form, bend and create your new system. Kits are fine and easy to install, but I recommend that you participate in designing your own individual system and have it made specifically to suit your car and you. 2) When in doubt about whether or not to install cats, think about installing them. Today's cats are light weight (less than two pounds), well made and provide little restiction - plus they are inexpensive, costing about $75 each. In addition, the cats I purchased have a lifetime guarantee. The same thing with the mufflers, light weight and about $75 each. 3) Whatever system you decide upon, try to keep the exhaust pipes away from the rear differential. I have learned that prolonged exposure to the stock "X" system that is directly under the rear end differential can cause overheating and excelerated wear inside the differential. If you are curious about this problem, grab the top of either rear wheel and pull/push back and forth. If you feel and hear a bit of slop, chances are your rear end axle tips are worn. Change the differential oil and posi-traction additive every 10,000 miles to help avoid this problem.
That's about it. Thanks to evryone for their input and help. This Forum is more helpfull than a 1/2" breaker bar when it comes to working on Vettes.
F
finadk
Guest
I just had my exhaust done. I have a 76 with a 327 ( from a 68 camaro) It has hooker shorty headers and I used 2 1/2 inch pipe all the way to the mufflers. Mufflers are Summit Super Turbo's and it sounde great. Not too loud. This is low budget car (for a Corvette anyway) and I am pleased with the results. It is a little tight going through the cross member but it is not hitting. The mufflers were only $15 each and the custom bend pipes were $300.
Scott
Scott
madvette74
Well-known member
Hooker Exhaust
i have Hooker headers with 2-1/4 inch mandrel bent pipes with a crossover pipe and Hooker super comp mufflers, it sounds awsome. it reminds me of how the 60's muscle cars... i didn't go with flow masters because they reminded me of the days when every mustang owner had them...........
i have Hooker headers with 2-1/4 inch mandrel bent pipes with a crossover pipe and Hooker super comp mufflers, it sounds awsome. it reminds me of how the 60's muscle cars... i didn't go with flow masters because they reminded me of the days when every mustang owner had them...........
Very nice... 
madvette74
Well-known member
engine bay
thank you.....
thank you.....
80vette_ca
Well-known member
Re: Actually...
My 80 only had a bit of a notch cut out for the exhaust on the one side, but I am running true dual with 2 1/2 pipe and dynomax super turbo mufflers and flowtech headers. I never changed or even had the other side of the crossmember notched for the dual exhaust. The one side hangs a bit lower but it never scapes. It sounds real great and looks good too because I painted the mufflers and the exhaust pipe w/ that high heat aluminum color paint, looks really clean.
My 80 only had a bit of a notch cut out for the exhaust on the one side, but I am running true dual with 2 1/2 pipe and dynomax super turbo mufflers and flowtech headers. I never changed or even had the other side of the crossmember notched for the dual exhaust. The one side hangs a bit lower but it never scapes. It sounds real great and looks good too because I painted the mufflers and the exhaust pipe w/ that high heat aluminum color paint, looks really clean.
Hib Halverson
Technical Writer for Internet & Print Media
On the 71 BB I have (front to back): ceramic-metallic-coated, Thorley Headers, 3-inch pipes going through a modified cross-member, Flowmaster 50-series mufflers. Custom made outlets. From the headers back, the system is wrapped with Thermo-Tech and the mufflers are painted with Eastwood Exhaust paint.
On the 95 Cpe I have (front to back): stock LT5 manifolds which have been "cleaned-up" inside and ceramic-metallic-coated, stock cats, stock pipes back to Flowmaster Y-Collector welded to a Flowmaster cat-back resonator, stock 96 GS manual, rear pipes and x-over welded to the Flowmaster resonator, Flowmaster 50-Series Delta-Flow mufflers welded to the GS rear pipes and stock 92-96 outlets welded to the Flowmasters. Pipes back of the cats are wrapped with Thermo-Tec. Resonator and mufflers are painted with Eastwood Exhaust Paint. This system on the dyno was 28 SAE rwhp more than a stock exhaust and 10hp more than a std. Flowmaster cat-back. Plus--this system is amazingly quiet. CAC will post an article next week on how I built this system.
On the 95 Cpe I have (front to back): stock LT5 manifolds which have been "cleaned-up" inside and ceramic-metallic-coated, stock cats, stock pipes back to Flowmaster Y-Collector welded to a Flowmaster cat-back resonator, stock 96 GS manual, rear pipes and x-over welded to the Flowmaster resonator, Flowmaster 50-Series Delta-Flow mufflers welded to the GS rear pipes and stock 92-96 outlets welded to the Flowmasters. Pipes back of the cats are wrapped with Thermo-Tec. Resonator and mufflers are painted with Eastwood Exhaust Paint. This system on the dyno was 28 SAE rwhp more than a stock exhaust and 10hp more than a std. Flowmaster cat-back. Plus--this system is amazingly quiet. CAC will post an article next week on how I built this system.
Glensgages
Well-known member
pauld:
How do you like your MA kit? I'm still thinking of going this route over winter, along with headers, and new (maybe NO) mufflers, too.
Has anybody here actually DOCUMENTED the performance (ET) or mileage (MPG) increase after the exhaust work?
I am scheduling an appointment in early October to get my rear-gears swapped (2.87s to 3.73s), but I'm taking a few hundred-mile trip, AND making time-runs (1/4-mile), both before AND after (trip to same destination), for a definitive comparison of ET and MPG.
In the Spring, after the exhaust-work, I'll make this same trip a 3rd time, and more 'test-n-tune' runs. By then, we'll have documented 'A-B-C' results.....
medvette74:
What's the part # on those HOOKER-brand S/C mufflers? I might use them, as I DEFINITELY don't wanna be confused with a Rustang.....
How do you like your MA kit? I'm still thinking of going this route over winter, along with headers, and new (maybe NO) mufflers, too.
Has anybody here actually DOCUMENTED the performance (ET) or mileage (MPG) increase after the exhaust work?
I am scheduling an appointment in early October to get my rear-gears swapped (2.87s to 3.73s), but I'm taking a few hundred-mile trip, AND making time-runs (1/4-mile), both before AND after (trip to same destination), for a definitive comparison of ET and MPG.
In the Spring, after the exhaust-work, I'll make this same trip a 3rd time, and more 'test-n-tune' runs. By then, we'll have documented 'A-B-C' results.....
medvette74:
What's the part # on those HOOKER-brand S/C mufflers? I might use them, as I DEFINITELY don't wanna be confused with a Rustang.....
P
pauld
Guest
Glensgages,
I am really impressed by the MA kit and can highly recommend it to you, it installs easily and sounds great, really improves overall performance, response is so much better.
I am really impressed by the MA kit and can highly recommend it to you, it installs easily and sounds great, really improves overall performance, response is so much better.
R
Roy
Guest
New Complete Exhaust System on Ebay
I just saw a new, complete 2 1/2" diameter dual exhaust system on E-Bay with a starting price of $100. Item number 2431708179. No bids yet with 5 days to go.
Seller describes system as fitting 1974-1979 Corvettes. Aluminized, chambered system. Said he paid $389 for the system,never installed it and wants to sell it. I don'y know if it comes with CATS and/or mufflers but thought some of you might be interested in the system.
As info.
I just saw a new, complete 2 1/2" diameter dual exhaust system on E-Bay with a starting price of $100. Item number 2431708179. No bids yet with 5 days to go.
Seller describes system as fitting 1974-1979 Corvettes. Aluminized, chambered system. Said he paid $389 for the system,never installed it and wants to sell it. I don'y know if it comes with CATS and/or mufflers but thought some of you might be interested in the system.
As info.
C
clar2001
Guest
Just did the flowmaster 40's, I did not have a spair tire carrier, so there was a lot of room there mufflers hanging to the side , On the new ones I painted the y pipe black and hung the flowmasters silver, but turnned the rotation 180 clockwise side to side , so it filled up all that room hide the mufflers better and looks really trick.
C
clar2001
Guest
Just did the flowmaster 40's, I did not have a spair tire carrier, so there was a lot of room there mufflers hanging to the side , On the new ones I painted the y pipe black and hung the flowmasters silver, but turnned the rotation 180 clockwise side to side , so it filled up all that room hide the mufflers better and looks really trick.
C
clar2001
Guest
Just did the flowmaster 40's, I did not have a spair tire carrier, so there was a lot of room with the mufflers hanging to the side , On the new ones I painted the y pipe black and hung the flowmasters silver, but turnned the rotation 180 clockwise side to side , so it filled up all that room hide the mufflers better and looks really trick.
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