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first start after 2 years

pttsls5

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2004
Messages
52
Location
Canada
Corvette
1972 454
I have had major construction in my neighbourhood for the past 2 years.The only way to get on the main street would be to turn my vette into a 4x4. I decided to let her sit on blocks and now after her long slumber I am going to fire her up. When I put her up I put oil in each cylinder (thru spark plug hole) and have always run "Prolong" additive in the oil. My question is.....before starting, should I remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with my cordless drill and slotted adapter to get oil up and thru the block ( which seems like a lot of work) OR will I be safe with starting up with just the 2 yr oil in the cylinders???
 
The drill will oil your bearing journals, but wont get any oil into the lifters, as the distributor shaft seal is missing (since it is out)and will instead run back into the block past your drill shaft. FYI.
 
I'd shoot some oil into the cylinders and start it up. After running it up to temp, then I would change the oil and filter.
 
I'd use the correct primer tool that has the same configuration at the bottom as the distributor housing - any speed shop has them (mine is a Tavia); the tool joins the lifter oil galleries together as the distributor does so the system builds pressure. If you just use a shaft with no housing, it won't build pressure in the system - it just dumps pump output back into the pan from the open lifter gallery holes down in the block.
:beer
 
John's so right about the correct type primer. I use an old distributor that I converted by grinding the teeth off the gear & welding a nub on top of the shaft. Our race car don't sit for 2 years ... more often than not we just spin the starter with ignition off ... a few seconds after we get full pressure we energize the ignition.
JACK:gap
 
Thanks for the input guys:) :) .I didn't know a special tool existed. How much does the primer tool cost ??
 
The good ones like Johns cost about $20-$40 mail order. Other types are little more than a stick and mail order about $12-$16 BUT do NOT have the boss/bushing/spacer to join the galleys. My old distributor was free but I've got about a half-hour in converting it myself. If you're gonna buy one, get a good one like ARP P/N 130-8802 OR Melling P/N PT13 OR Tavia P/N 08300 ... either have boss/bushing/spacer ... don't buy just a stick.

-EDIT- Chevy V8 distibutors & oil pump shafts turn clockwise when viewed from above ... rare exceptions are a few marine motors and a few HD truck motors. Vette oil pump primer turns clockwise ... make sure your drill motor is running forward & NOT REVERSE.
JACK:gap
 
I did the same thing as Jack,used and old chevy distributor. I cut the weight plate off the top and turned it down so I can grab it with a drill chuck. I didn't use anything on the gear end though. I could always turn down a spacer to replace the gear I guess. I use an oil press gauge in the block hole under the dist to watch for built up pressure and watch the rockers for oil coming out. You'll hear the difference too when the oil press builds up.
 

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