Front Clip install

[69MyWay]

Here is some step by step for those that are either curious, or considering removing and installing the C3 front clip.

This car has gone through some massive reconstruction in the last year. We have replaced the entire bird cage and frame. It is getting the same body treatment as killer in a coupe version.

This first pic is where I was taking measurements and preparing for the bonding.

There is a triangle mount flange made of fiberglass that rivets into the upper cowl in each lower corner of the windshield area. Those of you with water leak problems most likely have a huge rust hole under this area. In this first picture I have not yet installed the triangle mounting flange.

 

[69MyWay]

In this pic, you can see the fiberglass triangle flange sitting on the upper fender. I smear some polyester resin bonding agent on the bottome of the triangle flange, then rivet it onto the metal body structure of the car.

 

[69MyWay]

In this picture, the triangle flange is bonded and riveted and I am making some final measurements. It turns out there is still some old bonding agent on the under upper side of the front clip that needs to be removed.

No worries, we will deal with that in the next pic.

 

[69MyWay]

Here is the front clip flipped over for last minute inspection and prep. You want to take some 36 grit sand paper to the mounting areas, and check it all over for any other last minute prep.

**NOTE** the front upper V support that is found just under the hood and above the headlights is notorious for rusting and breaking free from the body. This is a good time to remove it, clean it, de-rust, paint it, and rebond it to the nose. You have seen those cars that have funny bubbles in the nose between the headlights and hood??? Those have corrosion problems between the factory mounting where the rivets and panel corrode and push out the fiberglass. This has to be dealt with from the back side.

 

[69MyWay]

Now the front clip is off, and any last mintue frame/firewall, etc. details can be addressed.

The very front cross frame support is crucial to mounting the front clip. This is the only "bolt" on section of the nose. The large V shaped brace goes between the frame horns and the core support bolts to it. The core support bolts to the front clip with three bolts on each side. THIS IS THE MAIN NOSE SUPPORT.

 

[69MyWay]

In this pic the nose is now bonded into place. I used the standard bonding adhesive as sold by Ecklers for glueing panels together.

You have limited time to work it after adding the hardener (it mixes like bondo). It gets smeared on the upper triangle we discussed earlier, the edges of the cowl flanges, and around the bottom edge under the gill openings.

Now, the doors don't have a real good tight fit at this point. That comes later. I will hand grind, fill, and long block the door to fender gap to make it perfect (better than factory).


Here is the best part. The bonding agent takes a while to set (especially in the cooler weather we are having today). So, I can grab a shower and enjoy the rest of my Thanksgiving day while the car dries.

Hope this has either inspired, or at the least answered some questions about the mystery of the C3 front clip mounting!

 

[rponfick]

Front surround replacement

Great pictures. What was the source of your front end? I am planning the same process and would like your comments on manufacturers and quality. What do you think of bonding the front end on piece by piece like the factory did. I know its a lot more expensive, but is it easier a piece at a time. I've worried about quick bonding adhesive set-up before you have gotten all your adjustments made. Looks like the inner fender liners are already bonded-in. Do you recommend this, or bond in later? Did you set hood into place while fitting other components to get proper gap spacing. I have a copy of Eckler's fiberglass repair book and am wonder if you used it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Nice work Chris. I almost asked what you did for Thanksgiving Day in my recent PM but know I know. :L

to

 

[69MyWay]

Re: Front surround replacement

Great pictures. What was the source of your front end? I am planning the same process and would like your comments on manufacturers and quality. What do you think of bonding the front end on piece by piece like the factory did. I know its a lot more expensive, but is it easier a piece at a time. I've worried about quick bonding adhesive set-up before you have gotten all your adjustments made. Looks like the inner fender liners are already bonded-in. Do you recommend this, or bond in later? Did you set hood into place while fitting other components to get proper gap spacing. I have a copy of Eckler's fiberglass repair book and am wonder if you used it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Lots of questions.

Well, I have had experience with Ecklers front clips, and can tell you that they still need some degree of hand blocking after installed to get them right.

Fitting to the door is very difficult as the aftermarket clip is made longer than needed, and you cut it back as desired.

I would suggest putting the inner fenders in first, as they are part of the entire structure and provide the side support to mount the core support in.

The hoods are always a pain, grinding, shimming working the hinges, as well as the body surround.

I would only consider putting the front clip together in seperate pieces if you are after NCRS type restoration.

Trust me, you have plenty of time to "work" the clip after mixing the bonding agent. This is because you trial fit it a dozen times first, then it takes only minutes to smear the adhesive (which is nothing more than glorified bondo), and drop it in place. I like to use clamps, vice grips, screws, etc. to hold it tight while the adhesive sets.



Tom, had time for the vette, and some turkey! Wait until you see what I did today.

We started out with back filling and blocking the right door gap, and door fit on both sides. Then, I installed the front fender flares with Dave's help.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Chris,

Any chance you can get some pictures of the air intake ductwork in the passenger side cowl while you have the fender off this car? I would be very interested in having a better look at this area as I take a go at trying to solve the problem of the introduction of hot air into the HVAC system at the source.

Bob

ps: Jody says hi to you and Nikki and hope you had a good Thanksgiving. We are at the in-laws down near Miami for a long, and I mean long, Thanksgiving weekend.

 

[69MyWay]

Chris,

Any chance you can get some pictures of the air intake ductwork in the passenger side cowl while you have the fender off this car? I would be very interested in having a better look at this area as I take a go at trying to solve the problem of the introduction of hot air into the HVAC system at the source.

Bob

ps: Jody says hi to you and Nikki and hope you had a good Thanksgiving. We are at the in-laws down near Miami for a long, and I mean long, Thanksgiving weekend.

Hello back at you!

Dave sealed off the vent system since he is also running a Vintage Air system that will simply recycle interior air. So, those pics won't help you. I have an extra firewall out of a 79 in the back yard I might be able to snap a pic of for you.

 

[Hijinx]

Chris,
If you ever get tired of Florida, I think there is a house right next to mine here in Dallas that's for sale. I would even help you move. I think my '73 would look a lot better with you living next door. I could help you carry things from time to time as well (like new Ecklers nose clips)!

 

[sscam69]

Hope this has either inspired

Yup. Body work seems like a lot of work at least more than chassis/suspension/engine work.

Chris do you think its easier to remove the body piece by piece or to remove the whole thing at one time? I have been trying to answer this question and I would figure it would be better to ask someone with experience.

By Birdcage you mean the frame that holds the windshield, doors and the rear piece of the body together, correct?

Whats the bondo for? I mean is it more for sealing to prevent future rust? I figure because your using rivets you could just keep then on there and been done with it.

Excuse my ignorance I really know nothing when it comes to working the body of the car

Nice pics BTW!

Frank

 

[69MyWay]

Hmmm, move to Texas........nope, not right now at least.

Frank, the "bondo" is what really holds the front clip on. The rivets only hold some small pieces in place, but the adhesive/bondo holds the parts rigid.

Yes, the birdcage is what you say.


IF your car is in decent shape, and there is no dectable rust in the front cowl/lower windshield, or birdcage rockers, then take it off the frame in one piece. HOwever, I have yet to see one that is not rusting up in there, and there is no other way to access it. Yes, it is a lot of work, but at least at the end of the day you too can say that the car has been inspected, cleaned, painted, and put back together inch by inch and there will be no surprises later down the road.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Hello back at you!

Dave sealed off the vent system since he is also running a Vintage Air system that will simply recycle interior air. So, those pics won't help you. I have an extra firewall out of a 79 in the back yard I might be able to snap a pic of for you.

I'd appreciate it if you have the time.

 

[Black Thunder]

Chris has Dave decieded what color for sure?

Big progress this weekend guys

 

[69MyWay]

Chris has Dave decieded what color for sure?

Big progress this weekend guys

You will be pleased to know that he has finally decided on BLACK! However, he will have a custom silver graphic down the center.

 

[Black Thunder]

Chris we kind of twisted his arm on this! Both of us chanting think Black, Dave!
The prospect of another great example of an early shark with all these great mods is so neat.
We are throwbacks to what was done 30 years ago, but one car at a time the look is regaining favor. Some will always say how could you do this to an old classic, but we want mean, wicked, nasty lookin Sharks.
Purists be dammed! We are happy to represent what is possible to make a shark stand out in the crowd.
I got you hooked on the name Killer, long ago now we need a nasty name for Daves, bad in Black ride!!!

posse bro

 

[69MyWay]

Speaking of names

The name Bruiser just jumped out to me the other day. I have been calling Dave's car that now at least to myself for about a week.

Trust me, with the attention to suspension detail, and a few tricks up his sleeve for the motor, this car is going to be one heck of a Bruiser to ANYTHING that gets in it's path.

Dave said he and Sue have never named any of their cars. I told them it is about time to start. As far as I am concerned, it is Bruiser, but since it is his car he will have to decide that.

BTW

Websters New World Dictionary Defines Bruiser as:

Bruiser = n. (Colloq.) a strong, pugnacious man

Pugnacious = (pug na'shes) adj eager and ready to fight; quarrelsome

so, it is a natural blend. Let's keep chanting "Bruiser, Bruiser, Bruiser" and see if it has the same affect as chanting "Black, black, black, black" has done!

 

[69MyWay]

If only removing and installing a front clip on a car with no other mods, chances are your door gaps will fall back in. In this case we did some extreme parts changing and between the chassis frame and body frame ended up with slightly different door gaps, etc than when we started. Not to mention, this was already a Ecklers one piece front clip and the prior installer did a poor job matching the upper fender corners to the doors.

In this pic you will see the front passenger door gap. What I do is grind the fender down with a slope towards the edge. I then fashion a gap tool by wrapping a wooden paint paddle in duct tape, then breaking/bending it to the shape of the front edge of the door and filling back to with with fiberglass reinforced filler (long strand). After a sufficient base has been created, I remove my paint paddle tool, trim out the excess, then fashion a door gap tool by wrapping the paint paddle in 80 grit sand paper. Now you can use lighter body filler to pick of the minor differences. This is the passenger gap starting to shape up.