You need a metric socket set.
And you need a long breaker bar for your socket set to get the bolts loose.
You need to remove about 2/3 of the brake fluid in the reservoir so that it doesn't overflow when you put the new pads on.
Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel before you jack the car off the ground.
Jack the wheel off the ground and remove the lug nuts, and take off the wheel.
Take your socket and breaker bar and loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper to the wheel assembly.
Once you have removed the two bolts that hold the caliper to the wheel assembly, the caliper will slide off of the rotor.
The caliper is a 1 piece assembly that is connected to the mount by 2 pins that allow the caliper to slide back and forth centering it on the rotor. Pull the caliper off the mount, making sure that the dust boots for the pins stay on the caliper. Re-grease the rods with silicone grease before you put them back together.
The old pads will slide straight out of the calipers toward the rotor side. The hardware kit needs to be replaced too. This is the hard part. Make sure to note the orientation of the hardware clip before you remove it from the caliper. Replace the hardware by unclipping the tabs from the caliper and pulling it straight out towards the rotor side.
Next, replace the hardware clips by pushing the new clip into the caliper in the same orientation as the old one. Make sure the tabs clip around the casting like the old ones did. It takes a bit of force to re-insert the new clips into the caliper.
Then put the new pads into the caliper, and keep them parallel to the casting. In otherwords don't let them cock at an angle, because they will fall out if you do.
Now you can put the caliper back onto the mount by inserting the pins into the guides in the caliper. You are going to have to push the pistons in back of the pads back into the calipers to get the pads back on the rotor. Push the pads in evenly on both sides with your fingers, or take a couple of wooden wedges and pry them apart to push the pads back into the caliper. I take a socket a little bigger than the width of the rotor and put it between the pads to hold them apart. Then you can slide the pads over the rotor with enought clearance to fit, and once the pads are on the rotor, the socket slides or drops out.
Replace and retorque the bolts holding the caliper to 23 Ft./Lbs., and you are finished with that side.
Replace the wheel, hand tighten the lug nuts, lower the car, and torque the lug nuts to 100 Ft./Lbs.
Starting at 50 for all, then 75, then to 100. This keeps the wheel and the brakes from warping, very important.
When you finish both sides, refill the brake fluid reservoir to the full mark. If it's not there already.
This is, to the best of my recollection, how I did mine last spring. Maybe someone else will add to this with any easier way to do it.
Hib has a short explaination on how to do it here:
http://www.idavette.net/hib/C5diy/c5diy2.htm
Good luck, and happy wrenching.