Help! Fuel pump does not turn on when key is turned until motor turns over about 10 seconds

[ecss]

Thanks again for all the help,everyone, and Happy Easter!
I am beginning to suspect the fuel filter, I have rejected the idea so far because it seems fine, accelerating etc. once it starts.
ECSS; your link above, re; fuel pressure measurement was relevant, same year '96.

This morning there was still some pressure at the shrader valve; 20 psi. I released pressure. Turned key from Off to Run. Pressure went to 22 psi. Turned key to Off, and waited 2 hours. Pressure was 18 psi. Turned key On, pressure only went to 19 psi.

I have read many posts commenting on the fuel filter being a PI the A..
Shops closed today, and being impatient; Is there a trick or easily made jig to remove those (push on or what ever) hose connectors on the stainless braided hose from the frame mounted line to the engine?

Might be a waste of time, but I would like to connect the gauge to the fuel line, before the filter

I don't own a LT1 but I believe the two braided lines that connect to the fuel rail are quick connect fittings. You insert the tool and it expands a garter spring. Then you pull the line off.

At the frame rail filter the lines are screw on to the filter. There may be a metal cover plate you remove to get access to the filter. Use an open end wrench on the filter and one open end wrench on the metal line.

The guy in the video below disconnects the line before it gets to the fuel rail so no special tool is necessary.

If you've never replaced the fuel filter you need to do it anyways. :L
Cost is around $15.00. On a scale from 1-10 replacing the filter is 6 because you have to jack up the passenger side.

If that doesn't solve the problem pull the sender assembly out of the tank and do a physical inspection.
If your car sits a lot and you don't keep the tank full of fuel, I guarantee you will have rust in the tank.

Here's what the fuel line quick disconnect tools look like. Plastic ones are cheaper than metal ones.

 

[ecss]

If this scary looking guy can replace a fuel filter, so can you,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6BEu1E0KLc

 

[Peter Stofregen]

Hi Again ecss;
It was easier to ask dumb questions, than get my hands dirty. The car is up on ramps, my filter is very accessible. The car (96 with LT-4) has stainless headers with 'hi flow' cats, further back, not beside the fuel filter.
I watched a video, can't find it now, but someone mentioned something about internal parts coming loose inside the filter and causing trouble. Liquid wrench is on the filter fittings now. I will wait for a new filter before attempting removal.
BTW; The engine idle speed fluctuated with the random pressure variations, swinging from 26 to 35 psi.
Again the pressure went up from 35 psi, when engine was shut off, to 45 psi after 15 minutes after shut-off.

Could there be such a restriction, that it takes that long for the pressure to get through? Also, I have read that running the tank near empty, (which I have done, admittedly), increases the risk of clogging the filter. Why? Doesn't the fuel pump pick-up, always pick up from the bottom of the tank anyway?

 

[Peter Stofregen]

Hi Folks;
I just replaced the fuel filter. I turned key to 'ON'. Still only 18 psi at the schrader valve. Is it time to pull the fuel pump assembly? Thanks for the video link ECSS, doesn't seem like too big of a project, even for a C-4 novice.

PS; I turned ignition on, with fuel filter removed, hose placed over fuel line into a pan. My thought was to flush the line before installing new filter. Fuel flowed but didn't look like there was 40 psi behind it. (Just guessing though)
Thanks again everyone for your input

 

[ecss]

Hi Folks;
I just replaced the fuel filter. I turned key to 'ON'. Still only 18 psi at the schrader valve. Is it time to pull the fuel pump assembly? Thanks for the video link ECSS, doesn't seem like too big of a project, even for a C-4 novice.

PS; I turned ignition on, with fuel filter removed, hose placed over fuel line into a pan. My thought was to flush the line before installing new filter. Fuel flowed but didn't look like there was 40 psi behind it. (Just guessing though)
Thanks again everyone for your input

It's not a difficult job to replace the pump.

Clean any foreign debris that's inside the tank.

When you pull the assembly out you will have to rotate it to get the float
arm to clear the opening. Do not bend the float arm.

Also if you have to attach the wires to the new pump make sure you observe
which terminal is + and -.

If the wires are reversed the motor will spin backwards.
Also note the position of the filter/sock so you can install a new one oriented
the same way.

Usually a sock doesn't come with a new pump so to get a warranty a new sock must be use.

If you buy a pump on e-bay beware there are sellers selling AC Delco pumps really cheap because they are clones. :ugh

 

[Peter Stofregen]

Hi ECCS and Everyone;
Still struggling with my C-4 fuel pressure problem. I finally removed the pump sender unit. I may be on to something! The screen sock on the bottom of the pump is oriented diagonally, and seems to have a lot of 'grit' inside of it. I read that it has to be installed front to back, so it is not bent by the anti-slosh louvers.

Question, How do I remove the screen from the bottom of the pump?

The Youtube video was not clear enough (for me), It does not want to twist off, and although I am surely replacing both, I don't want to fuddle it up.

 

[ecss]

The screen sock on the bottom of the pump seems to have a lot of 'grit' inside of it. Question, How do I remove the screen from the bottom of the pump?

The sock is a press fit. The sock metal retainer has some dimples around the edge. Don't try to twist it off.
Use a flat blade screwdriver and pry it off. After you remove the sock look at the metal screen that protects the pump input.

Do you see any rust particles in the bottom of the tank?
Any rust on the pump/sender assembly?

 

[Peter Stofregen]

Thanks ECSS;
Thanks for sharing your detailed knowledge. I will inspect the tank today, and remove the filter screen 'sock'.
Unfortunately the tank is about 3/4 full. If I see and rust/etc in the tank, what do you think of rigging up the old fuel pump to vacuum the bottom of the tank. I would of course, use extreme caution re electrical sparks and vapours.
Here in Canada , "The Parts Monkey wants $5 for "Spectra Premium" strainer, $28 for a "Delphi", and $47 for an "AC Delco" What do you suggest?, and;
Pump; $69 for "Spectra" $82 for Delphi, $127 for AC Delco. Sorry to ask you to micro manage my project, but the car is in otherwise 'show room' condition, and I don't want to mess it up!

 

[ecss]

Unfortunately the tank is about 3/4 full. If I see and rust/etc in the tank, what do you think of rigging up the old fuel pump to vacuum the bottom of the tank. I would of course, use extreme caution re electrical sparks and vapors.

Yes becareful and do it outside and not in your garage.

Or use a 4 ft piece of hose and use your mouth to create a siphon effect. Make sure the gas can container is lower than the bottom of the gas tank so all of the fuel will be siphoned from the gas tank.

Here in Canada , "The Parts Monkey wants $5 for "Spectra Premium" strainer, $28 for a "Delphi", and $47 for an "AC Delco" What do you suggest?, and;
Pump; $69 for "Spectra" $82 for Delphi, $127 for AC Delco. Sorry to ask you to micro manage my project, but the car is in otherwise 'show room' condition, and I don't want to mess it up!

:ugh
Your auto part store is ripping you off if the prices you posted is in US dollars. otfl

I've purchase two Delphi FE0114 pumps made in Mexico and so far so good.

I would stick with a brand name. Airtex is also a decent brand.

If you buy from rockauto.com located in the US I believe in Iowa, even with the shipping to Canada I'd still think you would save some money.

Go to their web-site add the items up with shipping and see what it cost for the same items.

Enter code 5595D57A428CC at checkout for a 5% discount.

The only problem with Rockauto is if the items are in different warehouses they charge to much for shipping.

 

[Peter Stofregen]

Update; What felt like 'grit' inside of the filter screen, was actually an inner layer of coarse mesh.

 

[Peter Stofregen]

Finally fixed!

Just to update: Installed new fuel pump and strainer sock. Pressure now 42 psi when key is turned to run, (when pump runs for 2 seconds). Car starts great. I saw fuel leaking from regulator. Replaced fuel pressure regulator. Everything perfect now.
I believe I did not notice the leaky regulator because the old pump did not develop enough pressure.

Thanks so much ECSS, and everyone at Corvetteactioncenter. With your help, I have gained the satisfaction of fixing my Vette myself, and I have learned quite a bit about the car.

O.K. Now I'm just looking for trouble, but; I would like to remove the Cruise Control.
I had a 74 Vette (for 25 years), with a 4 speed (Hurst linkage), I could shift fast and smooth. I have owned the '96 for 6 years, it is a far superior car, but I am not too happy with the feel of the throttle.
The throttle cable is routed through the 'ASR'. Cruise on a standard transmission seems an oxymoron.
Has anyone done this by-pass?
Thanks again, Peter
PS; I do not want to butcher the car, I would like to remove the Cruise components, but I would like my mods to be reversible.

 

[ecss]

Detach the cruise control cable at the cruise control servo.
Verify if that makes any difference in the accelerator pedal feel.
That's the round object that is located above the battery.
A picture of it is below. You can see all of the different holes the cable can
attach to. Note which hole you detach the cable from.

If it doesn't make a difference in the pedal feel, you're out of luck.

If it makes a difference you can leave it detached and also detach the other end of the cruise
control cable attached to the DC motor if you want and remove the cable.

At the DC motor where the cables go to, remove the plastic cover held on by a bolt.
Remove the foam insert.

Unhook the cruise control cable.

Here's a picture of the cruise control cable. Notice it's the cable farthest from the motor.
The other end of the cable goes to the cruise control servo located above the battery.

 

[Peter Stofregen]

Thanks ECSS; I think I should read my GM manual, the entire section on 'ASR' and Traction Control. I would like to remove the diaphragm unit for the Cruise and also the motor drum assembly, I assume for the TCS. I realize there may be issues with computer fault codes, etc. There is a TCS switch on the dash (button has image of car with skid marks). I believe the TCS is not functioning or has been defeated already. The button does not seem to have any effect. Is there a light that indicates when this system is active?
The above picture explains why the pedal feels sloppy. Way too much hardware between the pedal and the throttle, IMHO.
I will do a little (a lot) more research before asking more questions, but I appreciate all your guidance. I am a firm believer in the KISS principle, eg; the Transmission gear lock-out solenoid was disconnected when I purchased the car; I removed the solenoid and replaced it with a plug. Weight reduction is my compulsion. Thanks again, Peter