Fuel pump for TPI

[MaineShark]

How have people mounted their TPI fuel pumps? In-tank? External?

If in-tank, does this involve replacing the gas guage? Mine doesn't work correctly, anyway (it hits "E" with half a tank left), so it isn't a problem, but will I need to do any calibration?

Any pointers on good ways to attach the return line?

Also, any good ideas on routing the fuel lines, and sources for fuel line? Is it best to bend my own, or would something like the lines from an '82 (Crossfire) Shark be better? (will those take the higher pressure of TPI?)

I'm sure I can think up solutions to these problems, but I'd rather not re-invent the wheel, if someone who's previously done this can tell me what troubles they had, and what solutions they came up with.

Joe

 

[patsnitrovette]

Mines mounted in the tank on my factory sending unit i cut it shortened it up and put a sock on the end of it.But i might change to a frame mounted one its a bit noisy in the tank.

 

[69MyWay]

I mounted mine in line and bolted it to the frame of the car (the rear x member that holds the diff support).

I run upwards of 40 PSI with no problems, and the pump is very quiet.

You want to run a good 3/8" line from the tank feed to the pump, through a filter, then to the motor. You want to use your old feed line as a return line. You can then still purge the tank for fumes through the stock connection.

My EFI kit came with cool blue flexible rubber high pressure fuel line in 3/8" diameter (I.D.). You can feed it from the front to the back with no problems. Hard line would be better, but kind of hard to run when the body is already on the car.

Edelbrock says they have tested over 700 hp using nothing larger than the 3/8" i.d. hose.

 

[MaineShark]

So, if the original feed is now the return, how does the new feed get attached? Just drill a hole and (carefully) weld a fitting?

Any particular brand/model of pump to look for or avoid?

Joe

 

[69MyWay]

So, if the original feed is now the return, how does the new feed get attached? Just drill a hole and (carefully) weld a fitting?

Any particular brand/model of pump to look for or avoid?

Joe

You run the new feed from the original feed spot on the tank to the electric pump, then a nice new fresh line all the way to the engine. You take the old feed, and route it up the the upper passenger side of the tank where the return line used to go, that was only a 5/16" hose. You can then take the 5/16" hose that is there now as a return and use it for anything you want---maybe even a NOS fee line, or a vapor feed line for fuem control.

 

[phoenix73]

I'm halfway done with this myself.

My original steel lines had rotted through, so the former owner ran a new set without removing the original ones. Then when these rotted through, he patched them in several places with rubber.

So my first job was to trash all of the original and replacement line. Then I bought 5/16 and 3/8" steel line from Summit and a tubing bender. I ran both in the original location in sections. I have a small section of rubber line going from the tank to the inline pump that I am mounting on the passenger side of the frame about 8" or so of rubber line with a inline filter on it.

To run the steel line in the stock location, I had to prebend the line to feed it through the frame and will join the rear section with the front section on the frame under the passenger side door. This is where I have added my high pressure fuel filter.

I was told not to use more than 12 inches of rubber line total if I ever think that I would take it to the track. Apparently, it won't pass inspection if I do.

I'll get some photos up soon. Good luck. BTW... the inline pumps that you can get from Autozone are a lot cheaper than the intank ones new, but if you need a new sender anyway for the fuel tank, you might as well do the in tank one.

 

[74mike]

what type of connectors have been used at the point where the line connects to the rubber hose going to tank and to fuel rail ? Looks impossible to make the factory o-ring type connection. I hear the single 37 degree flare is better than the double flare for repeated tightening of the connection, as the double flare is only good for one compression and the single flare can take many. Also what type of connection is made at the fuel pump and steel gas line inside the tank. Is it just a hi pressure piece of rubber hose with 2 hose clamps ? hmmm

 

[69MyWay]

what type of connectors have been used at the point where the line connects to the rubber hose going to tank and to fuel rail ? Looks impossible to make the factory o-ring type connection. I hear the single 37 degree flare is better than the double flare for repeated tightening of the connection, as the double flare is only good for one compression and the single flare can take many. Also what type of connection is made at the fuel pump and steel gas line inside the tank. Is it just a hi pressure piece of rubber hose with 2 hose clamps ? hmmm

Mike, there are several ways to do this.

Barbed fittings with clamps are actually fine, and acceptable. In fact, if you use the stock sending unit/fuel pick up from the Vette, the gravity feed portion of the fuel line will have to be a barbed slip over hose clamp fitting. There is really no pressure there anyway. My pump is actuall a Volvo pump per Edelbrock specs. It has threaded ends on both sides with brass barbed fittings. Again, you can use a low pressure line to the pump. From the pump forward it must be a high pressure EFI quality line. You can buy EFI quality fuel line from Napa at about $2 a foot or so. Going up to the EFI, you can convert to a barbed end there as well and simply slip it on and clamp it.

Now, A/N fittings are super cool, and can be reused over and over and over. Top that off with the braided stainless steel hose and the anadized a/n fittings for the ultimate in cool and reusable line. I have done it both ways and find that the EFI grade hose and barbed fittings are just fine! I have nearly ripped my fingers off too many times inserting the a/n terminal ends into the braided hose and fought with it more times than I care to tell on some race cars and show cars.

For the hard lines, a simple compression fitting is fine with a flare tip on the line just like a brake line. If you end up doing the insert and (ferrell), etc. you will make a one or two time use only line. It is better to properly flare the metal line and use the reglular flare nipples and fitting if you are running hard stuff.

Finally, you can get a/n fitting in steel. This is a cool thing because you can run a hard steel 3/8" line from the tank to the engine bay. Then you solder the steel a/n fitting to the end of the steel line. Now, from the firewall forward you can run the cool looking a/n 10 or a/n 8 braides line to the EFI system or carb. Now , that looks trick and it is very durable.

 

[MaineShark]

Thanks for all the help.

So, does anyone know whether the lines intended for a Crossfire-equipped Shark would work? They would be pre-bent to fit, but would they line up close enough, and are they designed for the same pressure?

Joe

 

[74mike]

right on 69myway

 

[KANE]

I run with a high volume frame mounted pump.

Its sits on the frame adjacent to the tank. I like having a frame mounted pump because its easy to replace if it goes bad. No spare tire carrier to remove or tank to drop.

 

[MaineShark]

Almost forgot this one:

What do you do with the original mechanical pump?

Chris: do you happen to know which Volvo pump is used? I'd definitely like to stay with OEM equipment, if I can, for ease of service.

Joe

 

[69MyWay]

Almost forgot this one:

What do you do with the original mechanical pump?

Chris: do you happen to know which Volvo pump is used? I'd definitely like to stay with OEM equipment, if I can, for ease of service.

Joe

Joe, you buy a block off plate for the fuel pump.

I don't know which pump it is, other than it is a "volvo" pump.

Sorry I can't be more specific.

 

[MaineShark]

No need to be sorry

Is this the pump that they sell, or something else?

Joe