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Full Roller Rocker Arms And Stock Valve Covers

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After I bought my stainless steel full roller rocker arms I discovered my stock valve covers wouldn't clear the taller adjustment nuts. No problem as I simply cut the hex part of the adjustment nuts off and slotted them with a chainsaw file so I could use a wide screwdriver to turn them. I adjust them 7/8 turn down and then when I torque the screw they advance an additional 1/8 turn. So yes, you CAN use stock valve covers and full roller rocker arms.
 

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SVO

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Good Lord love a duck.....
 

Tom Bryant

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Now that you have went that far why don't you make a spanner that will fit into the slots you cut that is open on top so you can hold the adjustment while tightening the lock?

Tom
 
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Now that you have went that far why don't you make a spanner that will fit into the slots you cut that is open on top so you can hold the adjustment while tightening the lock?

Tom


As a matter of fact I had made a spanner wrench when I installed them 1-1/2 years ago but I had forgotten about it. I guess my memory is failing.
 

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Tom Bryant

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I probably would have just went for taller valve covers, unless they won't fit with your accessory brackets, ect. but I can't argue that your modification doesn't get the job done. Slick spanner too.

Tom
 
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I tighten the 7/16" NF set screws to 120 in/lbs and that appears to be plenty 'cause they have never loosened. I had made the spanner but then found it wasn't really needed.
 

Vettehead Mikey

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Given the contempt the OP has shown for headers and certain carb types and has outright insults for those who like them, I'm amused and amazed by his use of roller rockers. If there's one mod that's truly a waste of money, it's this. :eyerole

Maybe he should pick up where he left off over at SmokinVette forum and troll them for a while.

Saudi Arabia, huh?

More Power And Better Fuel Mileage - SmokinVette.com Forums

:mad
 
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A lot of us want to retain our OEM valve covers but the tall aftermarket adjustment nuts prevent that from happening.................unless you remove the hex and slot them with a chain saw file. By removing the hex you shorten the nut by about 7/16" which give you more than enough clearance to use your OEM valve covers. Picture #3 shows the two tools I made to adjust the nuts; one tool for turning the nut and the other for holding it while tightening the set screw to 120 in/lbs.
 

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1970 LS-5

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A lot of us want to retain our OEM valve covers but the tall aftermarket adjustment nuts prevent that from happening.................unless you remove the hex and slot them with a chain saw file. By removing the hex you shorten the nut by about 7/16" which give you more than enough clearance to use your OEM valve covers.

How does this affect the integrity and strength of the adjusting nut? I would be worried about failure after modifying it like this.
 

Tom Bryant

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I don't think there is a problem here as the upper part of the adjusting nut is just there to capture the set screw and the stud ends below that. the set screw doesn't have to be so tight as to cause the cut to spread. Stock adjusting nuts don't even have this upper part. The only thing I can see possibly happening would be a crack starting at the bottom of the cut and the nut splitting. Time will tell....or not.

Tom
 
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I was amazed over the very low cost of these stainless steel full roller rocker arms..............Just $129.50 with free shipping thru Amazon. I have about 40,000 miles on them and so far they haven't given me any trouble. I have been seeing this brand on many performance engines in the last several years so they are pretty popular.
 

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Hib Halverson

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71 04 12 19
I was amazed over the very low cost of these stainless steel full roller rocker arms..............Just $129.50 with free shipping thru Amazon. I have about 40,000 miles on them and so far they haven't given me any trouble. I have been seeing this brand on many performance engines in the last several years so they are pretty popular.

What's your engine's rev limit?
What kind of valve spring pressure are you running?

I use the version of the Crane Gold Race Rocker which fits under stock covers. That's what I use in my 71 Big-Block. I shift at 6400-6500 rm and my rev limiter is at 6750-rpm and I'm using a Crane dual valve spring.
 
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As my Magnum cam and 1.7 ratio rocker arms produce a .556" valve lift I felt the use of full roller rocker arms was justified to prevent valve guide scrubbing and valve stem wear along with greatly reduced valve tip wear because the rocker arms are more stable. Chevrolets and Fords using the "half ball" style of rocker arm pivots are well known for the damage they cause to valve guides as the guides will wear "egg shaped"; something that shaft mounted rocker arms don't cause.
 
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From an engineering standpoint the Chevrolet and Ford "half ball" style of rocker arms are the worst design ever used because they cause a LOT of excessive wear problems. But by NOT using a shaft to pivot the rocker arms on and by NOT having to install bronze bushings in the rocker arms they saved a LOT of money.
 

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