Fwd trailing arm bolt

[paintdaddy]

Whats the best way to remove this thing?I have fought with this for three days off and on.I read an article on using a torch but that seems risky.Any good ideas?

 

[IH2LOSE]

Sorry paintdaddy

Mine slid right out.

 

[ChuckG]

Sawzall....hacksaw....OR a die grinder. Remove the shims on both sides of the bolt by cutting/grinding, etc. That will expose the bolt on both sides. Cut both sides. NOT fun. Chuck

 

[paintdaddy]

Mine slid right out

I hate you:L Just teasin,Im getting ready to try a sawzall

 

[Ron Miller]

No experience with the trailing arm bolts (yet), but I've had some success in the past with an impact wrench on frozen bolts, the vibration will sometimes loosen a bolt that otherwise is stuck. If it's where you can get an impact wrench on it (don't remember clearances, etc., without crawling under the car), I'd give it a try.

Here's wishin' for success,

rlm:cool :bang

 

[Ken's67]

The "sawzall" is the only way. I just had to cut both of my bolts off. Remove the shims, cut the bolt as close to the arm as you can. Then cut the other side of the bolt the same way. I used about five or six new blades for the job. Have fun. Ken

 

[Subfixer]

Just goes to show you thet you never know what you're going to run into. My 64 has never been taken apart and with 114K miles, I finally removed the trailing arms and the bolts came right out. This is the same car whose frame is rusting away in the same area.... go figure.

 

[JohnZ]

When you re-install them, put a coating of anti-seize on the new bolt shanks so the bolts don't rust to the inner sleeve in the bushing; five years from now, your alignment guy will appreciate it!

 

[paintdaddy]

Well I tried a cheapo sawzall that didnt work.Sometime this weekend Im going to purchase a better one and also some benzomatic torches.
When I reinstall Ill use the anti seize and also some stainless shims and bolts.This is a 63 for a customer with 95k on it and unbelievably untouched and rust free.This has been the hardest thing so far on this project.

 

[IH2LOSE]

You know paint daddy A little bit of squirt goes along way.Some times just squirt it and let it sit a day to work its way in there.

I know in a paint shop the last thing you want is wd40 but it works.

Sorry for your troubles here .And I am sure the owner may have a hard time beliving the hours just to remove the bolts but it happens

 

[paintdaddy]

I agree ,most people would have a fit if I charged x amount of hours for removing a bolt but hes been easy goin.Ive soaked it down numerous times 3 days in a row.One side I cut the nut off and have it driven out the other side but cant drive it all of the way through due to the body being in the way.
The other side ,I got the nut off but the bolt wont budge.I think its actually frozen/rusted to the inner sleeve of the bushing.
Monday morning Im comin in with both guns drawn.

 

[paintdaddy]

Ahhhhhhh,I feel like a man again.It took me and some help about 6 hours combined but we sawed through it with a sawzall.Now having a little trouble getting the shock mount removed.I didnt work real hard on the shock mounts yet but they seem to be frozen also.That and installing doors is tommorrows project.

 

[TLeBlanc]

Paintdaddy,

Before embarking on my trailing arm project, I searched and read all the posts on this site I could. Seemed the Sawsall was the ticket. I borrowed one from my dad, and two weekends before Christmas I began the project. After getting all the connecting parts disconnected, I prepared for the chore of removing the forward bolts. Half dozen sawsall blades, bottle of Ibuprofen, and a gallon of margaritas (the latter two were for the pain I'd be sufferin afterwards).

Well much to my delight and surprise, both came out with a simple tap from my hammer and brass punch. Used the margaritas to celebrate that evening

 

[Ron Miller]

Ahhhhhhh,I feel like a man again. Now having a little trouble getting the shock mount removed.I didnt work real hard on the shock mounts yet but they seem to be frozen . . .

Shock mounts usually have to be knocked out, my experience . . .

rlm :cool

 

[MMM]

I was lucky on my '72, the bolts came right out. BUT, don't do what I forgot to do and check to make sure the bolt fits through the new bushing sleeves without binding. Nothing worse then getting the arm in place, everything aligned and then the bolt not slide through the new sleeve. So please check the fit before you install the arms.

 

[srthom13]

I was lucky also, my bolts came out relatively easy with lots of Nuts Off/ Liquid Wrench but you have to let them soak for awhile and apply the Nuts Off frequently. More that likely the bolts are frozen inside the bushing. Let them soak. If your arm is hanging free ( Half shaft off, sway off etc ) try getting a wrench on the bolt so as to hold the bolt secure, while holding the bolt secure move the arm up and down , this may loosen the bolt from the bushing sleeve. A two man job. Shock mounts need also to be soaked. Mid America. Echlers and Paragon sell shock mount removal tools ( about $15 - $20. ) All it is is a large nut that threads on to the shock mount ( where the nut holds the shock on ). After installing the removal tool it is just a matter of beating on the tool with a two pound sledge. The shock mount has a flat side so you can not twist it as you pound on it . Use plenty of Nuts /off or pentrating oil. I pounded on the left side for about two hours. As mentioned before use plenty of anti - seizure compound on re-installion. Good Luck, Steve

 

[paintdaddy]

No problem.

I will say that it makes things alittle easier if you jack the rear of the trailing arm up to make it perpindicular to the ground.By hanging freely ,the trailing arm is cocked sideways and puts the bushing and bolt in a bind.Maybe this should have been common knowledge but I dont claim to be the most brilliant guy in the world so it took me a little while to figure that out.