Jim Z06
Active member
Has anyone used Rustoleum's "Epoxy-Shield" on there garage floor? I want to do my garage with something other than concrete stain. Thanks for your opinions, Jim
Garage floor coatings?
- Thread starter Jim Z06
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AZMike
Well-known member
Yes - I coated the garage of our new house with it when we moved in in April. So far, so good. Looks great and no signs of wear or hot tire pickup in the 110 degree AZ heat.
Be sure to prep properly - that's the most improtant step - get ALL grease and dirt off before acid etching. I used tide and my power washer hooked up to the water heater to remove all grease.
Be sure to prep properly - that's the most improtant step - get ALL grease and dirt off before acid etching. I used tide and my power washer hooked up to the water heater to remove all grease.
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Jim Z06
Active member
AZMike--Thanks for the info. I was worried too about the hot tire pick up being that I live in the heat (Florida) like you. Good idea with the hot water heater. My hot water heat is in the garage so i'll give that a try.
J
John & Donna
Guest
There are other options for coloring concrete than staining. Another product you can use is called SprayRite: http://www.symons.com/products/sprarit.htm
The advantage to this product is that you have a lot of color options and you can create unlimited patters. Basically, if you can create a template, you can make the pattern. It is very durable; made for outdoor applications. If it does get scratched/nicked, it is easy to touch up. It also has a "tractive" surface; it doesn't get real slick when wet, like other coatings can.
The key with any of the products is cleaning. TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) works very well in removing any oil, grease, residual curing compounds, etc. from the concrete and is available from most hardware stores. Power washing is a must.
The advantage to this product is that you have a lot of color options and you can create unlimited patters. Basically, if you can create a template, you can make the pattern. It is very durable; made for outdoor applications. If it does get scratched/nicked, it is easy to touch up. It also has a "tractive" surface; it doesn't get real slick when wet, like other coatings can.
The key with any of the products is cleaning. TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) works very well in removing any oil, grease, residual curing compounds, etc. from the concrete and is available from most hardware stores. Power washing is a must.
S
sj20343
Guest
I used this product about a 1 1/2 year ago. I applied the product during the hot Texas summer, and followed the instructions to a "T". The product worked great. However, once fall came and cooler weather arrived, the paint started coming up, especially the hot spots where my tires were.
I am not sure if I did anything wrong, nor am I sure why it came up during the cooler weather. Although it looked great while it lasted, I wouldn't buy it again.
I am not sure if I did anything wrong, nor am I sure why it came up during the cooler weather. Although it looked great while it lasted, I wouldn't buy it again.
S
Steve Calvin
Guest
A contractor just recommended that I use two coats of swimming pool paint. He swears that it'll wear better than anything else. I haven't done it yet though so I can't say he's right or wrong.
ROADAPPLE
Well-known member
If your garage floor is stained with grease or has been coVered with some other floor coVering the concrete must be perfectly clean for any coating to stick.
My floor was stained prior to my purchase of the property. I followed the instructions to a "T". I still had less than satisfactory adheasion. Hot tire lift was the worst.
If your floor is less than vergin I suggest angle grinding or sand blasting down to a clean surface.
I ended up using a vinal garage floor covering called PARKING PAD made by BETTER LIFE TECH. It is a large sheart of ribbed vinal. It's not as cool as a painted floor but it will have to do until I can get a perfectly clean floor.
My floor was stained prior to my purchase of the property. I followed the instructions to a "T". I still had less than satisfactory adheasion. Hot tire lift was the worst.
If your floor is less than vergin I suggest angle grinding or sand blasting down to a clean surface.
I ended up using a vinal garage floor covering called PARKING PAD made by BETTER LIFE TECH. It is a large sheart of ribbed vinal. It's not as cool as a painted floor but it will have to do until I can get a perfectly clean floor.
S
SLICKMAN
Guest
I thought about doing this same thing and could not justify the cost so, I went to home depot and purchased some Armstrong floor tiles. Been two years and is holding up okay..
Jim Z06 said:
maxrevs85
Well-known member
Check this out: www.musclegloss.com
Zo6 LVR
Well-known member
Epoxy-Shield
Jim- I put the Epoxy Shield down on the Vette stall of my garage about two months ago and it looks great and has held up fine so far. I even threw in the flaky stuff, they proviced. I live in Indiana so it will see sub-zero temps this winter, but of course it will not see the snow slop and salt that the other two stall will! I plan on applying it to the other two stalls soon, before winter so we will see how that holds up to the punishment.
Jim- I put the Epoxy Shield down on the Vette stall of my garage about two months ago and it looks great and has held up fine so far. I even threw in the flaky stuff, they proviced. I live in Indiana so it will see sub-zero temps this winter, but of course it will not see the snow slop and salt that the other two stall will! I plan on applying it to the other two stalls soon, before winter so we will see how that holds up to the punishment.
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Lots of good info here. I'm going to move this to the garage depot section.
vetahlk
Well-known member
I'm a painting contractor and paint store owner. We carry the epoxy shield. As a contractor I had never used the epoxy shield. When we were asked to do the garage floor of a Detroit sports figure's new house that we were painting and keep the cost down, I used the epoxy shield. It's relatively inexpensive, good looking and easy to do. We put it down in April and I just inspected it last week and it still looks great. For my own Garage I used three coats of high solids epoxy and a top coat of urathane.
John
John
B
Buster1
Guest
I used Behr's concrete sealer at my mom's house. Looked a great at first, but has been flaking away pretty bad where the car tires contact. Water and salt from the harsh winters in NJ made it worse where the salt water pools. I didn't use the acid etch, but did the concrete cleaner and degreaser to the "T". Not sure if the etch stuff was the cause of early wear and tear.
mrvette
Well-known member
In all my automotive years now, make that 4 decades worth, I have YET to see ANY finish last under jackstands, floor jacks, tool dropage, acids, brake fluids, oils, tranny oils, acetones, MEK, the like....forget about it for a working garage, bare naked concrete is the way to go.....
if you got a showplace garage with no serious work going on, yeh, most anything will do, have fun.....
GENE
if you got a showplace garage with no serious work going on, yeh, most anything will do, have fun.....
GENE
c6vette
Member
I just used EPOXY SHIELD yesterday 8-20-04 . The floor is 36 years old and never been coated. So far so good, but only time will tell. Prep is important as previously stated. I"ll try to keep you posted.
John Mcgraw
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I disagree with mrvette completely. I have an epoxy floor in my shop, and it holds up to all the rigors he describes very well! The only damage I have done to the floor is when I dropped a LS1 engine on the floor from about a foot up ( don't ask), and that damage only took a few minutes to repair and recoat. I do complete fabrication and restoration in my shop, and even paint in it (after covering the floor). I think it all boils down to what is important to you, and to me it very important to be able to work in a bright, clean, and well organized shop. I think you can tell a lot about the quality of work a man does by looking at his equipment and his shop. Is it a pain to keep clean? You bet it is! I scrub and mop my entire shop every week. Every thing in the shop is on wheels, and can be moved to clean under it. Once you have such a shiny clean floor, you will not be able to abide it being dirty.
As for no serious shop having such floor coatings, that is BS. Every top notch race and fabrication shop I have ever been in, has such a floor. I can't tell you how nice it is to drop a small part on the floor and not have to hunt for it for half an hour!
I use Sherwin Williams Armour shield solvent based floor epoxy, and have had great performance out of it. We have used this floor coating in our shops at work for over 15 years and it wears like iron. I top coat my floors about every 3-5 years or so, depending on the traffic, to keep them looking nice
I will tell you that the home center concrete floor paints are a waste of money! I have had several friends go that way instead of the true epoxy material to save money and every one of them has peeled up and had hot tire lift problem. I grind my floors with a diamond grinder to prepare them for coating their first time.
Regards, John McGraw
As for no serious shop having such floor coatings, that is BS. Every top notch race and fabrication shop I have ever been in, has such a floor. I can't tell you how nice it is to drop a small part on the floor and not have to hunt for it for half an hour!
I use Sherwin Williams Armour shield solvent based floor epoxy, and have had great performance out of it. We have used this floor coating in our shops at work for over 15 years and it wears like iron. I top coat my floors about every 3-5 years or so, depending on the traffic, to keep them looking nice
I will tell you that the home center concrete floor paints are a waste of money! I have had several friends go that way instead of the true epoxy material to save money and every one of them has peeled up and had hot tire lift problem. I grind my floors with a diamond grinder to prepare them for coating their first time.
Regards, John McGraw
c6vette
Member
John,
Can the Sherwin Williams Armor Shield be used on a previously painted floor? Do you have to grind the previous finish? Not for my floor,which I just did with 2 part epoxy , but for my sons floor In AZ.( I believe with the 2 part epoxy it must go on bear concrete.) Thanks in advance .
Al
Can the Sherwin Williams Armor Shield be used on a previously painted floor? Do you have to grind the previous finish? Not for my floor,which I just did with 2 part epoxy , but for my sons floor In AZ.( I believe with the 2 part epoxy it must go on bear concrete.) Thanks in advance .
Al
John Mcgraw
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Al,
That kind of depends on the existing paint and it's condition. If it is a cheap, single component floor paint and is having some peeling problems, then the Epoxy will not solve the problems. If the paint is a sound, well adhered urethane or epoxy, then you can probably just scuff it with an abrasive pad on a floor machine and recoat it. Talk to the Sherwin Williams tech support. Even if you have to grind it, you can rent a dual disc diamond concrete grinder at your local rental store fairly reasonable.
Regards, John McGraw
That kind of depends on the existing paint and it's condition. If it is a cheap, single component floor paint and is having some peeling problems, then the Epoxy will not solve the problems. If the paint is a sound, well adhered urethane or epoxy, then you can probably just scuff it with an abrasive pad on a floor machine and recoat it. Talk to the Sherwin Williams tech support. Even if you have to grind it, you can rent a dual disc diamond concrete grinder at your local rental store fairly reasonable.
Regards, John McGraw
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