Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

Getting real serious-383

  • Thread starter Thread starter fc3
  • Start date Start date
F

fc3

Guest
Hey,
I'm getting very near decision about the crate motor vs. block build up. I am leaning to block build up. I am planning to start with a 4 bolt sb, have machinist bore to .060. Buy a stroker kit, build bottom. Then buy heads, intake, headers. Use Q-jet I have on shark now. I think edelbrock RPM heads and intake... I think I will have more low to mid torque in RPM ranges I will encounter on the street... especially with 3.08 rear end and 400 turbo. Any thoughts? Fred.:cool
 
Fred,
you may want to set out a budget and add 20% for other odds and ends you can't see needing at this time. 383's are good motors. i would highly suggest you decide exactly what ball park you are shooting for relating to the torque and hp numbers. if you plan on pumping the motor up to the max, i would suggest that you buy a two bolt block and add miloden spayed main caps. they will take a lot more power before giving up the ghost than a stock four bolt. if you are looking at staying inthe 350 to 400 ranges, a two bolt block will do nicely. if you plan on getting an old block, look for a 020 or at least a 010 block. these numbers are cast in the timing gear valley. 020 are the high nickle good boys and 010 are the next best thing. you may even want to look at new blocks from gm. give me some more info on what kind of power you are looking for, and i can give you some prices and options of the different builds i pondered before landing on my 406, Brian
 
Brian, I am looking for 425 hp, 450 ft/lb. nice cam but enough vaccum for PB,AT, and vac needed for AC, headlight and wiper doors. Maybe 268 extreme cam? Fred.
 
That shouldn't be to hard with a 383. You are barely pushing the envolope with that kind of power.

The crate might save you some $$ and time.

If you go to hotrod.com or chevyhiperformance.com you should find some articles on a crate 383 that made close to or over 500 and still pulling 9in of vacuum. I think they made or got close to 400hp with bolt ons, not to sure though.

Frank
 
GMPP's HT383 crate w/ HRM buildup

I am looking for 425 hp, 450 ft/lb. nice cam but enough vaccum for PB,AT, and vac needed for AC, headlight and wiper doors. Maybe 268 extreme cam? Fred.
Check out GM Performance Parts' HT383 ... this is a brand new (not rebuilt) crate motor with GM warranty. Also check out Hot Rod mag's tech article on buildup of HT383 ...link HRM here http://www.hotrod.com/editorial/article.jsp?viewtype=text&id=66278

JACK:gap
 
Fred,
your numbers are are easy to make with a 383. you could even make that with a nice 350. you will not need forged parts, but they will add reliability and/or resale value. a standard four bolt block will work good, unless you want to spin crazy rpms. you can check prices of stroker kits at places like speed-o-motive, jegs, summit, etc. try and stay under 10:1 with iron heads and 11:1 with aluminum. your cam is the important part. power in small blocks comes from the heads and their friendship with the cam. for the figures you want, the lower end will be cheap. try and stay with 6 inch rods, they really help the volumetric numbers. a nice set of 195 arf heads will be awesome for throttle responce and low end torque. they will flow good to 6000 rpm as well. an internally balanced crank also the way to go, balancer and flywheels are the same as 350's. plus it will add to the sleeper look because nobody will be able to tell you have a stroker. one very deep well of knowledge, as well as a cheap source of quality parts, is Mike Stark.

http://www.cfmperformance.com/cfmhome.htm

i bought all of my motor stuff through him and he saved me a couple grand over summit and jegs. i did buy lots of pricey goodies though. Mike is very good with heads and crank balancing. he knows his stuff and is a real good guy, down to earth and willing to take time to talk with you. give him a call and try and narrow your budget down a little better. Mike will put you in the ball park with good seats. once you get your heads and rotating assembly nailed down, we can pick a cam, but Mike will give more options than i can. happy shopping, Brian
 
Brian, My motor guy wants to look for a 400ci sb... to build a 406. Any thoughts on this especially from first hand expereience? Big Torque, relatively small cam for streetablity and vaccum. Fred.
 
fc3 said:
Brian, My motor guy wants to look for a 400ci sb... to build a 406. Any thoughts on this especially from first hand expereience? Big Torque, relatively small cam for streetablity and vaccum. Fred.

Now you are thinking even better, except, you MUST make sure the cooling system is ready to keep that siamesed block from over heating. I am talking big radiator, lower spoiler in place, all insulators between core support and radiator fresh, strong Dewitt, etc. cooling fans, and a high quality water pump. Don't take any chances or cut any corners if thinking about the 406 option.
 
Chris, You are the second person to tell me today that the 400 block cooling is an issue.
My 72 has a stock radiator, runs 180 W/O AC, 210 with AC on in 95 deg texas weather. Poor 1979 350ci (old smoky):(
What water pump? Short aluminum? What radiator, stock rodded or replaced with?
Front spoiler is in place, cowl around fan is new. Should I replace fan with something besides stock? Thanks for the help. Fred.
 
My 383 buildup consisted of the eagle cast steel crank and rods . Use 6 " rods , better rod angle . I also opted for the AFR 195 heads fully ported. The block is a stock 85 vette block which is 2 bolt. I first had it caped with Oliver 4bolt splayed billet steel caps along with the steel front cap. I do have a TPIS intake system. If I was to go carb I would use the 750 4150 vac sec, The power is absolutily awesome and somtimes a little scary. I cant believe how it pulls to 5500 and the throttle response is very nice. I run a 307 gear .
BTW I used a Stewart water pump made for Corvette .
 
Maxrevs,
Scary awesome power sounds very nice!:cool Fred.
 
Chris, You are the second person to tell me today that the 400 block cooling is an issue.
Its a pretty typical and well known problem with the 400c.i. smallblocks. The cylinders are siamesed together making them a little more suseptible to overheating. But with all precautions taken you should be alright.

AKRAY4PLAY should be able to tell you what he had to do with his 406 to get right.

Frank
 
Fred,
i spent a lot of money on building my 406. it was made to rev and hold more power than it is tuned for at this time. i am making 606 hp and 588 ft/lbs on 90 oct pump gas without spraying it. i can run a 200hp shot of nitrous safely and a 300 shot will be pushing the limits of the block. i am not going to kid you, i spent (without the learning curves) an easy $11,000 on getting it running. there is a lot of bad press floating around 400sb chevs. the old blocks ('72 and '73 i think) did not have the steam holes drilled to cool the siamesed cylinders. IT IS CRITICAL to have the steam holes in the heads and cylinders. a siamesed block is actually stronger than a 350 block, according to several books i have read. if you go this route, go with a two bolt main and put splayed caps on, easy insurence. a stock four bolt block's outside main bolts go through the "fissures" in the main webbing. a splayed set up will go parallel to the fissures and not ruin the integritty. i am running the stock radiator and fan with an edelbrock high flow water pump and 180 thermostat. i yarded the a/c, living in alaska go figure, and the hottest mine got was 190-195 after a grueling burnout/speed run for a couple of miles of wfo, outside air temp was 85.
406's are bad to the bone. they couple light weight with big displacement, a win/win in anyone's book. they really are not that much more to build than a 383, but can offer more. there is no replacement for displacement!! i have a fairly large well of info on building a 406 or 434 sb. there are things i would do differently with the gift of hindsight. you still need to figure out how much cash you are willing to throw at this project. hp takes $$$, but the numbers you want are not going to cost your first borne. the first itteration of my motor was 10.3:1 comp, 2.08-1.60 valves, dual plane intake and a 234/246@.050 cam with .498 lift. it made 440 hp and 520 ft/lbs. it made 418 ft/lbs around 2000 rpm but fell on its face after 5400 rpm. it had 18 inches of vac at idle. it was a killer build for a 4x4 or car equipped with a 700r4. give me a few dollar figures and i will give you a few options to ponder. MAKE SURE YOUR MOTOR GUY KNOWS HOW TO BUILD A 400 RIGHT. it will be worth talking to other people that have a 400 built by your guy. there are no second chances when it comes to machining on a 400sb block. it is easy to screw up and cover the mistake, but time will make that mistake known loudly. i will try and email (forward) a partial dyno print of my motor.
 
Hey Brian

I would be very interested in your recipe for that 406. Thats some great power and torque you are making!!

What kind of vacuum is it pulling with your setup right now?

Frank
 
Frank,
my numbers were improved dramatically with a new cam and intake, 606hp and 588ft/lbs. i am now running an edelbrock victor intake (ported by mike stark) and a crower special ground cam. the cam specs; 248/256@.050, 110 lobe sep, .600 final lift int/exh. i lost some low end but gained the world in mid range and top end. the vac is screwy at idle. it has 8-10 inches (pulses hard do to overlap). when you start to rev it makes 22 inches at 2200 rpm. after that i am not sure how it goes, but the 750 demon i have whistles from 3000 to 3700. the new configuration is very streetable to my surprize, and very lumpy at an idle of 800 rpm. you can lug it around on the streets all day and still be able to crack the throttle and scrare the s**t out of the rice lovers. it is funny about those guys, they all want to race until i slip it into neutral and give a good "let's go" rev or two. they all drop out but one WRX. we were running at 30mph at went for it, i kind of lost sight of him. too bad, it was a pretty shade of blue.
as for the build;
here we go, cam listed above,
AFR 210 race heads with 2.08/1.60 valves, ported w/4 angle grind
decked for 71 cc chambers leaving 10.7 : 1 comp ratio
block decked to 9.0 inches and bored .030 over
eagle 4340 crank and 6inch h-beam rods with 7/16 rod bolts
JE/SRP flat top full floating pistons with speed pro moly rings
miloden splayed mains
cloyes (my spelling sucks) full adjustable double roller chain
crane full roller rockers 1.6:1 and roller hydrolic lifters
msd w/6al for the spark
750 race demon with internal jet work and passage drilling
hooker headers sidepipes with glass pack inserts
pistons come up flush with deck
edelbrock aluminum high volume fuel and water pumps
march serpentine pulley kit (not very impressed with the p/s cap)
and a bunch of other little doo dads
the power is in the heads and intake. the 6inch rods help vac and combustion because they stay at tdc and bdc longer and have a faster piston speed mid stroke. sorry for the novel fellas.
Chris (69 MyWay) could you email me, and i will try and forward you the partial dyno sheet to post for everyone to see, thanks Brian
 
but one WRX. we were running at 30mph at went for it, i kind of lost sight of him. too bad, it was a pretty shade of blue.
:L

hooker headers sidepipes with glass pack inserts
Have you thought about those JCL baffels?

I am assuming that is fwhp? Because if thats rwhp, thats one hell of a beast you got there. Actually it already is but just makes it that much more!!

Whats the quench height? Gaskets, what kind?

Frank

oh and thanks for the recipe
 
Brian, I hope to spend about $4,000 for engine. Not assembly, installation or machine shop. Fred.:eek
 
Frank,
all numbers are flywheel, there is not a chassis dyno in alaska that i know of, and only 3 stand dynos that i do know of. sometimes it sucks living in the sticks, but most of the time it is great. i was looking at the baffles after i installed the glasspacks. i was forced to run some kind of muffler, the police were easy on me after that. all gaskets are felpro and the head has .035 or .039 quench, i can't remember off hand. your welcome for the parts list, i love the way it turned out. everyone that has gone for a ride agrees that it is the scariest car they have been in, even my friend that works at the dodge dealer with complimentary viper rides. no insult intented to the viper lovers out there. all in all i think it next to perfect for hitting the play car target and having less than $20,000 invested. did you see the video i posted a while back??
 
Finding this engine block is proving to be harder than I expected. Anyone have any ideas about how to find a good 2 bolt block? Fred.
 

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center?  Join now!  It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom