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Go ahead...make me cry.

  • Thread starter Thread starter 78SilvAnniv
  • Start date Start date
Good advice about checking the rod, thanks. Kenny and I are pretty sure it is the rings that failed, but will do a compression test and pull the plugs to inspect and get some confirmation. I'll copy and print up the directions about new ring placement for Kenny to look over.

I want to reiterate, this engine is a 1997 GM crate with less than 30k on the clock. It is not a 26+ year old L48. There has also been NO SMOKE out the tailpipe, just wet inside the passenger side tailpipe, with no drips.

Once again, thanks for all the help.
It was disheartening for the 78 to be 'down' again. However, we've had rain for several days, so I don't feel I'm missing too much driving time...Kenny and his brother (and a few great CAC members) will help get the job done this weekend that much quicker.
Wish us luck!
Heidi :w
 
78SilvAnniv said:
You guys are the best!
Kenny is planning on pulling it this weekend.
Sat-out
Sun-in
I'll send you both an IM with our phone and address for mapquest directions.
Heidi
Wow!
Kenny must be from the planet Krypton, or a NASCAR mechanic. A two day engine job is fast for a mere mortal.
I hope you find your problem. Good luck:beer
 
wishuwerehere82 said:
Wow!
Kenny must be from the planet Krypton, or a NASCAR mechanic. A two day engine job is fast for a mere mortal.
Sometimes I do think he's Superman! ;)
We both think this will go quickly. He has recently 'gone-to-school' on engine removal and installation since he just did it. We won't have to tear so much down...pretty much just the oil pan to access #4.
His brother is visiting and will do most of the accessory removal and fluid draining during this week and have it ready to pull Friday night.
Hood goes back in my bedroom for another few days! :D

Pulled the #4 spark plug tonight and it was foul. Totally gunked up.
Heidi
 
Nah, too easy!

wishuwerehere82 said:
...Wow!
Kenny must be from the planet Krypton, or a NASCAR mechanic. A two day engine job is fast for a mere mortal....
Ours was taken out in five hours today, so if you had all the bits, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you didn't need any machining.

The five hours included a little time spent getting the engine past a steering box that should also be on the opposite side of the car! (Well it was in 1996)
The side exhaust manifold had to be taken off to get it past.

:beer
Tony
 
Jack said:
Heidi & Kenny:
.

When there's been a re-ring job that failed ... The second compression ring is where there's often an oil-pumping problem. They usually do have a specific top and bottom orientation. They sometimes have a barely-perceptable taper on outside diameter (taper's larger diameter toward crank)... some even have a bevel on inside diameter (bevel faces crank). Yours probably has both taper and bevel. Some second rings have a dot near gap .... this dot usually faces head. An upside down second ring can and usually will cause oil pumping.

JACK:gap
Thank you. That's what I was trying to say when I mentioned upside down oil ring. Not the oil ring but the compression rings, because like you said, taperred edge.
 
78SilvAnniv said:
Pulled the #4 spark plug tonight and it was foul. Totally gunked up.
Heidi

That's why there is no smoke. Plug no fire, oil/gas no burn.
 
Sorry for your troubles


But before he tears it down he should confirm there is a problem with a wind test of all the cylenders.

It would be terrible to pul the motor out to find it was only an intake gasket problem or a head gasket problem.How did the plugs look
 
#4 plug was very fouled. Black and gunked with oil that smelled of unburned fuel. Trying to get ahold of a friend with the compression tester we used this past winter, but we will do a compression test before we pull anything.

We cleaned #4 and reinstalled it and fired the 78 right up and she ran sooo much better than she had for the last week I'd been driving her. We are pretty certain it is the #4 rings giving us the problem. With the amount of oil I've been losing, no leaks or drips under the car and other fluids clear...I feel the only place the oil can be going is out #4 and through the tailpipe.
Heidi
 
Compression Test

IH2LOSE said:
But before he tears it down he should confirm there is a problem with a wind test of all the cylenders.
Compression Test Results:

1-3-5-7 All tested at 160 lbs.

2-4-6-8 All tested at 155 lbs.



All plugs fouled to greater and lesser degrees. Most plugs have white at the tip of the plug with black wet or gunked oil at the base. 1-7 have the least amount and 2-8 have the most amount of fouling. #4 was wet with oil.

Passenger tail pipe end (dual chambered) is coated on the interior with wet oil. Driver side tail pipe end is black inside, but dry.



What do we do now?

It seems we won’t need to pull the motor. :J

We pull the heads and check the head gaskets…and what else? Will we need to take the heads back to where we bought them for analysis? I purchased them at a reputable and reliable race speed shop that I trust implicitly.



Questions I have:

Do I need hotter plugs?

Why have I lost 3 quarts of oil in under 500 miles?
Thanks for all the help. I'm glad we compression tested!
h
 
Heidi, Has someone checked to make sure its not just a bad intake manifold gasket, This is not that uncommon when swapping parts from motor to motor. From what ive read here, look there FIRST!!!!!! A high vacume cond. will pull oil into the intake runner and make things look just like bad rings or bad valve seals!!!!! Before Kenny rips into it, TRY tightening the intake manifold ( tighter than you normally would) and see if it still runs crappy, after a short drive to clean it out, Let us know Good Luck, Paul:confused
 
Heidi,

I would have the heads checked for cracked or split valve seals. Magnafluxing would tell you if there is any cracks in the head around #4 chamber but a crack there would most likely be anti freeze. Also check out the cylinder walls for scoring when you get the heads off. You may just have an intake manifold gasket leak which is pulling oil into #4 cylinder, and that will be taken care of when you put it back together. Strange that the right head is 5 Lbs. lower all across the head. Maybe the 2-4-6-8 head is not torqued down as much as the other side, or the chambers are larger on one head. But a 5 psi difference is not much to worry about.
Glad it passed the compression test. The only other place the oil could be coming from is though the valve seals, or the intake manifold gasket. I think!:L
 

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