got a squeak

[arcticvette]

I have an annoying squeak comming from driver's side rear wheel. sounds like its about one tire revolution per squeak. just wondering where and how to start to look. had it up on jack stands and there is no wobble in the tire. would a u-joint make this noise or should I be thinking wheel bearing or possibly brakes?( no extra noise on stopping) I just hate driving through town with any noise other than the rumble from my exhaust.

Mike

 

[craig32]

I have the same thing, only the other side - I think it is the e-brake rubbing but I'm not sure. I eagerly await responses with you! I have it on jack stands, and it doesn't squeak just free wheeling.

Craig

 

[LT4man]

I would look at your brake pads very carefully. Spin the tire while the car is on jack stands and see if you can duplicate the sound.

SAVE THE WAVE!

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Sounds like a half shaft u joint to me. Very common problem. Change all four while you're there.

 

[arcticvette]

Sounds like a half shaft u joint to me. Very common problem. Change all four while you're there.

should probably do the u joints anyway and could definitely be the problem but just had car up on stands with the wheels off, its was pretty hard to get the rotors to turn by hand and there was a definite spot that was tough to get past. should the rotors turn fairly easily or should they take a little effort? seems like the rotor could be warped??:confused
it doesn't make noise at first but after a little driving it shows its ugly face
Mike

 

[craig32]

I just took mine down off the stands, after I inspected the U-joints as best I could. They didn't seem to have any slop between the rotor and pumpkin. (oh, and changed a leaking caliper in the front and put new shoes up there) The right rear tire was low, about 16 lbs, while all the rest were 28. I pumped it up with the rest and took it out and it didn't squeak like it did. I did notice the e-brake cable was VERY close to the tire, and maybe that wheel is bent too, I know at least one other is. So for now at least, that seems to be taken care of. Oh yeah, and the brakes don't pull anymore! Hope you got yours under control, Arctic. OH, and thanks Mikey and LT4 for the advice!

Craig

 

[LT4man]

No need to thank me. Just another member of the team (CAC), just doing my job!

Always glad to hear about another satisfied customer!

Air pressure should be the first thing to check and usually ends up being the last thing!

SAVE THE WAVE!

 

[MusclesWit350]

it doesn't make noise at first but after a little driving it shows its ugly face
Mike

Man I got the same problem in my 80... Its been ****ing me off for years....

 

[JohnZ]

should probably do the u joints anyway and could definitely be the problem but just had car up on stands with the wheels off, its was pretty hard to get the rotors to turn by hand and there was a definite spot that was tough to get past. should the rotors turn fairly easily or should they take a little effort? seems like the rotor could be warped??:confused

Mike

With the car up on stands and the suspension hanging free, the outer half-shaft U-joint will interfere with the spindle flange when it turns; you have to raise the trailing arms up toward normal ride height in order for the outer U-joints to turn freely without interference, especially if the shocks have been replaced (the factory shocks limited downward movement of the trailing arms, and most replacements don't).

 

[arcticvette]

With the car up on stands and the suspension hanging free, the outer half-shaft U-joint will interfere with the spindle flange when it turns; you have to raise the trailing arms up toward normal ride height in order for the outer U-joints to turn freely without interference, especially if the shocks have been replaced (the factory shocks limited downward movement of the trailing arms, and most replacements don't).

thanks johnz makes sense to me, now to raise each trailing arm would i do that with jack and support with jack stand without bending or breaking anything?? is there a quick and easy way to tell if u-joint is shot. have never changed one is it pretty straight forward? sorry for all the questions but as you can tell my knowledge is limited but am willing to give it a try. thanks again Mike

 

[JohnZ]

Jack up each trailing arm about 2"-3" from where they are now and slide a jackstand under each one so the U-joints will rotate freely.

The Shop Manual describes how to change the U-joints; be VERY careful removing and installing the outer joints on the spindle flange side - if you don't use a reinforcing plate (or a junk flange) bolted to the spindle flange, you can bend the flange when pressing the joint caps, and then the flanges are history, and you get to buy new ones (about $80-$100 each).

 

[arcticvette]

thanks johnz, will try to hit it this weekend if i find the time. Mike