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Grinding noise from the headlight motor gear

  • Thread starter Thread starter 98TXRed
  • Start date Start date
9

98TXRed

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Looks like the infamous headlight motor gear is going out on my right headlight. Other than getting the metal gear to replace the cheap plastic one from the factory, are there any other suggestions, installation tricks, words of caution, etc.? How hard is it for someone that is not too mechanically inclined to replace that gear? Thanks for any help.
 
Thanks, Bob; I'll let you know how the replacement turns out (I would have replied earlier, but I never got a message that anyone had replied to my posting).

David
 
many people have found that the problem is a plastic gear that strips

and rebuild using a brass gear that is available fairly inexpensively

PM me and I'll give you the info I have on how to reach the individual that makes them
 
Yes, based on other postings, I think that it is the gear. I have placed an order for a pair of replacement brass gears with Rodney Dickman (www.rodneydickman.com) and will replace the gear on both headlights. I'll let you know how hard it is when I am done ... sure does make the lights on the C-6 more attractive.
 
that is the guy who people have said they have bought the parts from

didn't know whether it was ok to put that directly in a post; some forums frown on that

on another forum, there was a long post with pix from someone who did the repair and he said it was "easy"

but easy to one guy may not be that for another
 
I found the supplier for this site, so I knew that it would be ok (this is a great site for helping people).

And you are right about the easy for one is not for another ... I had a tough time replacing the fog lights until I found the trick about going through the top. I have not had to change the back lights yet, but that looks to be more difficult.
 
I've replaced both gears on my vette when one of my headlight motors failed to work correctly. I believe on a 97- 99 models, there are 3 screws that hold the headlight motor case together. Later models are glued with epoxy and have to be cracked open and re-glued. The glue is supplied by the Rodney Dickman kit. Make sure you get no oil or grease on the surfaces. I accidentally contaminated the glue joint and the gear casing had to be re-epoxied on one side a year and a half later. Don't rush the gluing time! I bought special plastic expoxy to do the job. One thing that most people may not realize is that there is a small hole that is nearly impossible to see that is in direct line with the armerature shaft that will allow the owner to inject grease into the gear housing. If grease was injected annually into the case I think it would prevent the wear that we all see. You can use a needle connection on your grease gun to get the grease in there. My grease had dried out and I believe was a contributing factor to the premature failure of the unit.

I got pretty good at taking these motors out and putting them in becuse of a few problems I had so I took out and installed the motor within 40 minutes total. This doesn't include glue times. Clamp the body if you have to use glue otherwise it will spread apart as the glue cures.

By the way, on the drivers side (and only on that side) there are 'spacers' to make the components align. These spacers include 3 washers stacked on each of the 3 bolts that attaches the motor and gear housing assembly to the headlight assembly bracket. In order to make assembly much much easier, I removed the stacked washers and replaced them with 1 hex head nut on each of the bolts. The hex head nuts don't fall off when you tip the motor to inistall it and it is nearly identical in thickness to the stacked washers. Good luck - Ron
 
I agree with Schmaltzr. I have a 2000 and you did have to glue the cover on. 2 months later the cover fell off and the headlight only went up half way, due to the gear not seated properly in the caseing. Thats why I just bought a new one for 150.00. Not worth the hassel..
 

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