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Guide Coat Process

69MyWay

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2001
Messages
4,364
Location
Auburndale, Florida
Corvette
1969 Killer Shark
As you can see in these next two pics, the car has a full covering of good urethane primer and now I have dusted a guide coat on top. This is what helps to achieve a perfect body. I will now painstakingly wet sad each square inch of the car. If any of the black guide coat remains, then that is a low spot and must be filled with micro light body filler, then sanded, primed, and resanded until perfect.
 
Another angle.

That is the lotus esprit turbo under the car cover. The wind keeps blowing it off, then I put it back on. You would think I would tie it down by now.

Notice the rear valance is now in with the exhaust pipe block off making headway towards the sidepipe install.
 
Here it is sanded down.

I basically blocked the whole car in about 6 hours.

I just finished spraying two more wet/medium coats of primer on the car. It is starting to look really slick.
 
And another angle.

Thank goodness the weather was very mild here today for a winter day. I can't think of "wet" sanding in cold weather.
 
Getting easier to picture what will be another nasty, muscular lookin Shark

With Dave wrenchin it outta be a screamer as well

Great job Chris :beer
 
Will that one be black too? Seems fitting....

Chris,
What headlights do you use? Have you done the H4 set up yet? It really makes a big difference.
 
DarkShark78 said:
Will that one be black too? Seems fitting....

Chris,
What headlights do you use? Have you done the H4 set up yet? It really makes a big difference.


Yep, it will be black (is there any other color?)

It will have some kind of silver graphic on the hood and rear deck. He is still working the details out on that.

I just have regluar Halogens in my 69. I am installing the electric actuators on this car as soon as I get it jammed in and a single coat of black on the body. The car will sit for some time while the motor is being installed and last minute tweaks. By painting it with a single coat, it will seal in the primer (keep greasy hand prints from smearing in), and we can see the flaws in the body, go back and correct them before the actual final paint job.
 
Hey Chris

Whats the difference between wet sanding and dry sanding?

In what situations would one work better than the other?

Is there special sand paper for this process?

Frank
 
sscam69 said:
Hey Chris

Whats the difference between wet sanding and dry sanding?

In what situations would one work better than the other?

Is there special sand paper for this process?

Frank

Wet uses water from a fresh source (garden hose), and or a bucket. It is a special type of paper called wet/dry.

Wet lasts longer as you wash away the build up in the grit of the paper. Wet works better for fine grit sanding as you keep washing flushing the sanded off paint/primer and the constant dipping in the bucket and rinsing the panel keeps the build up down and the paper fresh.

If you fine sand with dry paper it will build up so fast that after a few seconds your paper won't cut anymore.

Dry sand is for course hard cutting and ripping of material fast.

Wet sanding is for fine delicate cutting of a surface.

Hope that helps.

p.s., when you "color sand and buff" a painted car, you are using micro fine wet sand paper (1,500-2,000 grit), plenty of fresh water, and you more or less simply polish the paint surface down removing the outer layer and any orange peel or trash in the paint.
 
Helps a lot Chris

I have always wondered why people "wet sand", and after you have explained it it makes perfect sense.
 

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