Half Shaft Removal Question

[vettej1]

Hi all, I am trying to remove the half shafts from my 72 and need some help.

The trailing arms and the whole rear suspension is already out, all that is left is the half shafts, and I'm leaving the differential in.

I have removed the four nuts holding the inside of the shafts on to the differential yokes but can't budge the shafts. This is all original and they have never been removed so they are frozen in good. No real rust holding them back.

I'm getting a little frustrated so I stopped for dinner, I don't want to break anything.

Any suggestions?

-john

 

[Paul Borowski]

The u-joint bearing cups MAYBE rusted or frozen into the differential yoke cavities. I've had to "gently" pry on the halfshaft ends OR tap on the u-joint cups at the yokes to break them free. They probably been together for so long they're "carbon fused(rusted)" together. Take your time, be patient, pry or tap lightly, they'll come apart.

 

[vigman]

Bigger hammer!

The 4 bolts that secure the 1/2 shaft yoke to the differential flange are the ONLY fasteners holding those items together( short of some idiot putting J&B weld there).

Try a little of your favorite rust penetrant..

SOAK IT... let her sit a bit.. get an air hose and blow at the seams & at the holes in the flange.. spray more & let it sit.

LATER, give a good whack at the flange seam with a BIG WOODEN MALLET!

It SHOULD plop out.

How rusty is the assy?

Vig~

 

[PROSOUTH]

The yokes are held in with a C-Clip and must be removed from the inside. So if you have to remove them as well go ahead and drop the rest and take off the rearend cover. When you do check the splines on the yokes and make sure the button on the end is not damaged. If it is damaged also check the cross shaft and see if the yokes have beat them up too. Then the C-clips must be repaced along with a set of new seals. good time to change fluid and additives also. This way it will all be done and you won't have to pull it down again for a long time. Ain't nothin' cheap or easy about a Vette.

 

[vettej1]

Thanks guys.

Vig, heres a pic...

 

[DkBG]

So , by the picture I guess your saying you can't get the clamps off , in which case the clamps themselves are rusted into the yoke . Either keep doing the penetrateing oil bit or heat the corners of the yoke with a torch around the bolts . If you use the penetrateing oil , give things a knock with a brass hammer every once in a while . A big ol crowbar can help too . Cliff

 

[GaryS]

Before I tried heat, how about lightly tapping on the U bolt and try and drive it out. I had to do this on a buddies car since his U bolts were also frozen onto the u joint cups.
Gary

 

[vigman]

Yeeeeeccchhhhhhhh ( Rust O Rama)

SOAK THAT BAD BOY....

You know I was wrong... I was thinking of a different car at the time ( senior moment ).

Get a small wire brush and clean the surface rust at the seam points


OK now... still soak that bad boy and do the air compressor trick.. that will force the oil down into the crevices.

You can try smacking the U joint End caps end on.. they have those end tabs.. which center the U joint in the yoke.. but there is a TINY bit of slop there.. smack one side .. rotate it, do the other.. repeat as needed.

Give a small edge tap to the U bolts as well.

Then get a BIG screwdriver and pry ( using the diff yoke as the pivot point) the U-joint out.

If that doesnt work..put the nuts back on the U bolts ( so the nut covers the thread).. and try to pry ( with a piece of wood) or tap em out (with a small ball peen hammer).

Still stuck.

Use a propane torch.. ( WASH THE OIL AREA DOWN FIRST..AND SURROUNDING AREAS.. HAVE AN EXTINGUSHER STANDING BY)..


Vig~

 

[vettej1]

Success!!

Thanks again everyone for your suggestions.

Hey Vig, putting the nuts back on the U bolts trick did it.

Now .... to the sandbaster!!

-john

 

[vigman]

Coolness

How much effort did it take to break them loose?

Vig~

 

[vettej1]

Left side was pretty hard. Used alot of penetrating fluid, and finally a little heat.
Then I put the nuts back on, added more heat and pryed the u bolts loose with an extremely large tapperd chisel.
The right side came off pretty easy. The joint was replaced on that side before.

I'll post a pick after everything is re-assembled. Just picked up my trailing arms Sat. from the local shop after they put new bearings in for me.

-john