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Hatch button of remote doesn't do anything?

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SQLDBA

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I bought my car a week or two ago and the owner didnt have his keyless entry remote. I bought one at the local dealer and programmed it. The passive entry system works fine but if I attempt to open the hatch from the button on the remote it doesnt do anything at all. Do I need to do anything else to make the buttons on the remote work?


Thanks.
 
I assume your hatch opens with the other buttons in the car? (one on the drivers door, and one in the center console)
 
Vettelt193 said:
I assume your hatch opens with the other buttons in the car? (one on the drivers door, and one in the center console)
Yes sir, both those buttons work.
 
dang, there goes the easy fix:(

My educated guess is the button on the key fob you bought is broken... do you know other corvette owners that may let you test their fob out?

If it isn't the fob, it is most likely the main unit, which is deep in the dash. either the unit itself or the wiring... usually the whole thing fails, not just half of it. If it were my car, I wouldn't fix it until something else broke in there (although, I had a '93 with a bad PKE unit, that never got fixed because nothing else broke in there)
 
That's intresting. I tested the "door" button and that appears to do nothing as well. But as I said, I can walk up to the car and it will unlock itself or lock itself when I walk away. Thats what I dont understand. I'm not really sure why the buttons dont work on the fob.
 
can you hold down the door unlock button to make the locks 'cycle' to turn the system on and off? other than that, the door button is pretty much worthless...

did you buy the fob new, or is this an eBay (or other) purchase?
 
Vettelt193 said:
can you hold down the door unlock button to make the locks 'cycle' to turn the system on and off? other than that, the door button is pretty much worthless...

did you buy the fob new, or is this an eBay (or other) purchase?

SQLDBA said:
I bought one at the local dealer and programmed it.

Got it direct from Chevy. Had a nice cardboard set of instructions for programming it too. I know I followed the directions exactly so thats why I posted here. I didnt know if maybe something was broken. :(
 
I am retarded today... didn't even see that you already told me where you bought it! I am betting the fob is faulty... If you can get your hands on another one to see if it works. chevy should replace it for you without (much) hassle
 
Let the car tell you! :)

Connect pin 5 to pin 8 of the DLC plug. Put the key in the ignition but do not turn it on. The PKE light on the DIC should flash 15 when a transmitter (fob) is within range. Push and hold the door button for 5 seconds. The code should change to 16. Do the same with the hatch button and code will be 17. If code doesn't change then the fob is bad. If code is 14 then try to re-program the transmitter again.
 
KOPBET said:
Let the car tell you! :)

Connect pin 5 to pin 8 of the DLC plug. Put the key in the ignition but do not turn it on. The PKE light on the DIC should flash 15 when a transmitter (fob) is within range. Push and hold the door button for 5 seconds. The code should change to 16. Do the same with the hatch button and code will be 17. If code doesn't change then the fob is bad. If code is 14 then try to re-program the transmitter again.
Codes 15,16,17? Pins for DLC plug?

The DIC is below the center a/c vent and has 16 lights in it, right? I'm not sure how I would see 15, 16, 17, or 14 displayed. Do I need some type of datalogger?

Thanks.
 
SQLDBA said:
Codes 15,16,17? Pins for DLC plug?

The DIC is below the center a/c vent and has 16 lights in it, right? I'm not sure how I would see 15, 16, 17, or 14 displayed. Do I need some type of datalogger?

Thanks.
I'm sorry, I didn't have time earlier to elaborate.

Look for this connector under the driver's side trim panel just above about where your right knee would be, right of the steering wheel. This is the DLC (Data Link Connector). Using a regular size or smaller paper clip connect pin 5 to 8. You may need a flashlight to see better. Sit down in the driver's seat and lay the fob in your lap.

After you short the pins above and put the key in the ignition (do not turn) the "Passive Keyless Entry" light on the DIC will begin to flash. It should flash once (1), pause, and then flash five more times (5) (therefore DTC=15) and then repeat over and over, if a valid transmitter (fob) is within range. Press the the door button and hold 5 seconds or so. Code should change to flash (1), pause, flash 6 times, pause, etc. Repeat for the hatch button.

14 = no valid transmitter received
16 = door button pressed
17 = hatch button pressed.


6806DLC.bmp
 
KOPBET said:
good to know stuff that was too big to requote :)
Ok. So with all that good to know stuff that was too big to requote, would I not be able to achieve the same thing by following the program directions?

<
Press Trip/Odo twice
Within 5 seconds press and hold FUEL INFO until the PKE light is solid on the DIC
Turn ignition to off but leave key in and the PKE light will begin flashing
Bring FOB into range of vehicle
Remove key from ignition
>


So maybe instead of removing the key at the end I could test the buttons?

Thanks.
 
SQLDBA said:
Ok. So with all that good to know stuff that was too big to requote, would I not be able to achieve the same thing by following the program directions?

<
Press Trip/Odo twice
Within 5 seconds press and hold FUEL INFO until the PKE light is solid on the DIC
Turn ignition to off but leave key in and the PKE light will begin flashing
Bring FOB into range of vehicle
Remove key from ignition
>


So maybe instead of removing the key at the end I could test the buttons?

Thanks.
You can do this at any time after you have successfully gone through the programming steps.

As you have already gone through the programming steps, I would proceed with jumpering the 5 & 8 pins in the DLC, put the key in and see what happens.

If necessary you can go through the programming again if you find it may need it but right now I would check the diagnostic codes and see what you get.
 
KOPBET said:
...I would proceed with jumpering the 5 & 8 pins in the DLC...
sorry for so many questions but what do you jumper the pins with? I know jumpers are for motherboards or hard disks... but for a plug, I wouldnt have a clue.


Thanks
 
You can use a paperclip or any bit of wire laying around. You could also go into Autozone and ask them for the "key" that plugs into the computer harness to read the trouble codes. The key works great and I've never been charged for one. If they dont have one on hand they will call around and find one for ya.
 
SQLDBA said:
sorry for so many questions but what do you jumper the pins with? I know jumpers are for motherboards or hard disks... but for a plug, I wouldnt have a clue.


Thanks
Using a regular size or smaller paper clip, or another form of small guage wire will work fine.
 
KOPBET said:
Got Codes?
:( No, between work and selling my AWD talon I havent had the time. I'll try to do it today during lunch.
 

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