Header Installation

[Bob Chadwick]

I finally bit the bullet and bought the Dynomax Ceramic Coated Headers. After having some trouble getting the a/c out of the way, I have the passenger side in place while I wait for a Percy's High Performance aluminum header gasket and the Stage 8 Locking Header Bolts to finish that side.

After looking at the picture, its apparent I'm going to need those aluminum valve covers that I have been looking at at The Last Detail.

I had read about how the header bolts tend to vibrate loose over time. I was somewhat surprised to find the ram horn bolts loose also. I had just fixed an exhaust leak and the thing was tightened down about 18 months ago.

And I got to buy a new tool. Got to love a Sawzall.

Bob

 

[69MyWay]

Ah....the joy of headers.

I recommend the stage 8 bolts. However, they will still give you a fit. You will see what I mean when you start to put them in. Just make sure you have a grinder handy.

You may find that you have to shorten one or two of the bolts to clear the bend in the header. This is why I prefer uncoated headers first, so I can beat and bang them all I want to make them fit...then pull the off and get them coated later.

Since yours are already done, you will have to really work around that to avoid damaging the surface. Your option will be to modify the bolts where you have problems instead of the headers.

Here is another tip. First, make sure all the header bolts fit and slide them through pull the header to the head and start the bolts all a thread or two at a time. You can pull the header in with the bolts bottomed out in the flange. If you put the header on, and install and finger tighten the "easy" access bolts...you may never be able to get the tight ones in...unless you grind them, etc. You will see what I mean when you get the header bolts.

Oh...stage 8 will get loose too. That is from the been there done it files. However, that has more to do with the gasket crushing, then giving way then the bolts backing out.

Good luck...and have fun. That is what it is all about anyway.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks for the tips Chris. I already noticed with the old bolts that I used to hold it in place that there are some tight spots.

 

[resto75]

I saw some header bolts in a magazine that had a taped center bolt that forced the outer threads open after they are installed. Kind of like some concrete fastners I have seem.

Don't know if they work !!

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I saw some header bolts in a magazine that had a taped center bolt that forced the outer threads open after they are installed. Kind of like some concrete fastners I have seem.

Don't know if they work !!

Would that be a problem if you had to remove them.

 

[Robin7TFour]

BOB the bolt will work very well. just make sure that a hi-temp anti-seize is used in the inner screw. then you just loosen the inner allen head to relieve the pressure on the outer sides of the bolt.
another alternative is the bolts that have an E-clip . once tightened the clip prevent the bolt from turning. see summit or jeg's catalog


ROBIN

 

[Bob Chadwick]

BOB the bolt will work very well. just make sure that a hi-temp anti-seize is used in the inner screw. then you just loosen the inner allen head to relieve the pressure on the outer sides of the bolt.
another alternative is the bolts that have an E-clip . once tightened the clip prevent the bolt from turning. see summit or jeg's catalog


ROBIN

Thanks Robin. These bolts with the e clip sound a lot like the Stage 8 bolts.

 

[1979toy]

I use a set of 60 / 90 degree offset wrenches on my header bolts. It takes longer to install and remove the headers, but the process of checking the tightness is just as fast as if using a socket and ratchet. You do have to just guess at the torque when using these though.

 

[Robin7TFour]

could be right. i just look at the pretty pictures in the catalogs. playboy is the only one i READ

BUBBA

 

[Bob Chadwick]

playboy is the only one i READ

We all read it for the articles man.

 

[Robin7TFour]

OH another thought. if you want to go with that vintage race look you might think about safety wiring the bolts. takes some prep work on the bolt heads and some concentration on doing the wiring. but really looks cool when done..
i built (or rebuilt) about 200 9 inch differentials for disney's test track ride. every ring gear bolt had to be safety wired. 10 bolts per ring. i got real good at that....

tootin' my own horn


robin

 

[bossvette]

I use Allen bolts and red locktite, bringing them in a little at a time helps with the clearance issue. On some headers you may have to use a regular header bolt on one or two holes, depends on the bend.

 

[Robin7TFour]

HEY CRAIG, hope you're keepin' warm up there. have you had any problem breaking the red loctite loose? that's one of my fears when using allen heads. i've seen afew over zealous wrenches loctite and over tighten. i get stuck trying not to strip the head.


robin

 

[wrc3]

So allen bolts and red locktite will do it?

Anyone else want to chime in on this suggestion? I am getting ready to put mine in this weekend and being that I have the allen bolts and locktite available it would be nice to know if the solution was this simple.

 

[Red69]

I used Hooker ceramic coated headers with 1 5/8 tubes on my 69. It has 186 castings heads and aluminum valve covers. I used Fel-Pro header gaskets. They come as 3 individual sets for each side. Thinking they would fail, I bought a one piece gasket, but haven't needed it. Stage 8 bolts and blue Loctite was used. After the installation I feel that if installed properly the Stage 8 bolts provide the best insurance against backing out. I just got the car back together last fall and only have about 200 miles on it. No leaks so far. I slowly tightened the bolts evenly. After all bolts on one side were at maximum torquage, I fit the bolt locks. You will need a bench grinder and custom fit those that do not provide a tight fit against the header tube. Try several locks on each bolt, if I remember correctly, there were a few different angle locks. In addition to the anti back out locks, I liked the dual allen wrench, hex head wrench capability. From my experience this sure makes tightening those bolts much easier. Even at that, the first bolt on number one cylinder gave me a little trouble. BTW Chris is right in his post above, get all bolts started first, or you may find you need to start over. Good luck!

 

[bossvette]

Locktite is like brylcream "a little dab will do ya".
I have had them off once to repaint and most likely will have them off again this winter. I have cut down allen wrenches and several different legnth allen sockets that I use. The biggest thing about allen bolts is to keep your wrench "sharp" and be sure its "all the way in" if I get ambitious I will take a picture of the wrenches.
Craig sr

it is cold as a witches t** in a brass bra up here

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Passenger side header is in. I had bought the bracket when I bought the gasket and bolts and found out it won't do the job. It appears that the only bracket that is available is for the long style compressor and it sits between the first and second tube bolted down with the second and third screw.

For those of us with the short compressor we don't need this bracket because our bracket only attaches to the manifold at one point at the front header bolt. It appears that I am going to need to get some tubing to use as a spacer to make up the difference in thickness between the ram horn and the header so that the bracket will line up. I'm a little disappointed that I am going to have to use the old bolt in the front when I have all of these attractive Stage 8 locking bolts in the other holes.

 

[vmrod]

Some sweet parts you got there Bob! Post a pic once you're done.

 

[resto75]

These are the ones I was refering too.
www.go-breslin.com

 

[Bob Chadwick]

These are the ones I was refering too.
www.go-breslin.com

Looks very similar.

I got my spacer built. I went to Lowe's Hardware section and found a 3/8 inside diameter x 1/2 outside diameter x 1 1/2 length spacer made by Hillman. I cut the spacer, about 1/4 inch, to make up the difference between the header flange and the thickness of the ram horn. The spacer slid right over the 3/8 inch bolt and allowed me to torque it down to the requisite 30 pounds. The only thing I would do differently is try and find a spacer with a larger outside diameter but I'm not taking the whole thing apart now.

I was able to get the torque wrench on all 6 bolts using a 1/4 inch drive set and a universal joint. I got the a/c back together and the right side is all back together except for the trip to the muffler shop to weld the pipe to the collector piece that bolts to the header.