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headers????????

Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
160
Location
pennsylvania
Corvette
stroked 85 blkrose coupe
hello all,

anyone using hooker 2149 headers on the car and if so how are they
to install and how is the fittment


thanks
chris
 
sorry but i can't help you with hookers but i run TPiS long tubes and it wasn't that hard. a lift would help cause you'd have to get the car 4 feet off the ground to go in from the bottom. mine vette is a L98 but it was pretty simple.
 
I have the Hooker 2151-1. Same thing except mine have no emissions fittings and are ceramic coated. They give way better spark plug access that the stock ones. Fit is great. Expect a long day if it's your first time installing long tube headers. Stock dipstick will no longer secure to the header bolt like with the stock headers. A flexible braided line dipstick from Lokar will work nicely and look better.

Installation

The Driver's side goes in from the top, with the spark plugs, and the oil filter removed. That is it for this side.

The Passanger's side header will go in from the bottom. You will have to remove the starter and the spark plugs, and install both the starter and header at the same time from the bottom. The front of the car needs to be pretty high off the ground to be able to do this. You might have to grind the top corner of that Passanger side cross brace to allow the header tube to clear. Mine kept catching on the corner of that cross brace and would not allow the header to go up high enough to align the bolt holes to attatch it to the cylinder head. After grinding off the corner, it cleared.

Be carefull about the Hooker 16720 y-pipe if you have an Auto trans. This pipe goes with both the 2151 and the 2149 headers.This pipe might not clear your trans pan without some cutting and welding. I had to completely cut, remove a corner section about 12" of pipe, and re-weld a new piece in it's place at a different bend, to make it clear the pan. One of the corner turns of the pipe cuts too close and hits the pan. The pipe would not go up all the way to level out the front and allow for a proper seal at the collectors. It also blocked off access to some of the trans pan bolts, requiring the removal of the pipe for future trans service. Only L98 guys with the Auto trans seem to have this problem with this y-pipe. Just a heads up before you go to install one and find out the hard way like I did. Only after some cutting with a saw and some welding did it fit like it should have out of the box.:mad

Oh, and do not use those crappy paper collector gasket that come with the headers. I blew 2 sets of them. Get some aluminum ones from Percy's, Summit, or Mr. Gasket. You will be glad you did. These don't blow out and seal way better.

Good luck.
 
Mad-Mic said:
sorry but i can't help you with hookers but i run TPiS long tubes and it wasn't that hard. a lift would help cause you'd have to get the car 4 feet off the ground to go in from the bottom. mine vette is a L98 but it was pretty simple.
Mic,

Did you get the coated ones?
 
Definitely Coated

For many, many reasons, few of which relate to climate!

I really, really wish I had angle plugs heads with my TPIS long tubes, though, as does Ken.






Did I say really?
 
i have the hooker long tubes not sure of the numbers gave 400 uncoated and had them coated for 150. install was par with headers. might i suggest for you to throw the bolts away that come with the headers and buy some arp bolts. cause you will sooner or later any way as well you still will be checking and tighting the arp`s just not as much. my over all 2 cents is that they are just another mod that needs a little more attention than all the rest.
 
uh, missed one minor detail. mine are headman not hookers. same game diffrent name.
 
gt306 said:
How much do the hooker headers cost? Same as EM, or TPIS?

Last time I checked, TPIS uncoated were $600 and coated were $750. The Lingenfelter ones are in the $900 range! :eyerole
 
Think about and know, ahead of time, about plug clearance. I am SO tired of burning boots with straight plug heads.

Shorty plugs do not help.

Taylor "Space Age Plug Wraps" did nothing to alleviate the burning/arcing, despite their high cost.

I am now trying Bakelite, from a VW ($2 each, used), having looked, without avail, so far, for something that will not burn thru in very short order. I have seen, but not found for sale, the ceramic tipped plug wires from Taylor, but am leery of their stuff after the above. I was told that snowmobiles have a similar setup.

Neither wrapping my TPIS's nor 'dimpling' the tubes, as suggested by them, helped. The 'kick' of the long tubes diminishes quickly when the engine is running on only 6 or 7 cylinders.
 
headers

Hey guys speaking about headers i am having mine installed next mon. I also have long tube headman. I got them for 150 off e-bay. I wet sanded them all down polished up the top ends to almost look chrome and then sprayed the bottoms with black header paint. I didn't know about not being able to use the oil dipstick holder with them. The place that is doing them bends pipes and does a lot of custom work so maybe i will see if they can make some kind of bracket to hold the dipstick. I am having the exhaust ran with 2 seperate pipes all the way back. No more cats have no emissions here where i am. I got the targa mufflers to cap it off with.
Rich
 
http://www.ocspeed.com/ <<<<Ted, owner; no BSer

Highly recommended. Expert advice would have saved me some dough, time and aggravation.

The ceramic boots are shown in the latest JEGS catalog, but the local price is the same. Shipping from them; tax, here: I'll go with the local expert so, maybe, he'll be around when I need him.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2484&prmenbr=361
I bought the 90 degree Jacob HEI's, which are, no-foolin', hard, white ceramic. They clear the tightest header pipe on mine and I cannot see how they'd burn. Magnecor 8mm spiral wire is fitted to them, being the best for the street with no overkill.

Bakelite can burn, break and/or be brittle. I recall burning some on my '70 LS-6 with Hooker header/sidepipes.

Ted said these ceramic ends were developed for some kind of furnace, I think.

OMG, does this car go, now!
 
Pirot,

OMG, for starting at $150, they'd better intall themselves! :L
 
86PACER said:
I have the Hooker 2151-1. Same thing except mine have no emissions fittings and are ceramic coated. They give way better spark plug access that the stock ones. Fit is great. Expect a long day if it's your first time installing long tube headers. Stock dipstick will no longer secure to the header bolt like with the stock headers. A flexible braided line dipstick from Lokar will work nicely and look better.

Sorry I can't really help, I have the 2151's with the high torque starter (makes the whole header thing much easier) going to true duals, so no Y pipe either.

PACER, I'd like to thank you for your almost casual mention of the Lokar tubes :beer I read your post Wednesday night, tracked them down, found a local dealer, which was much cheaper than ordering them from Lokar and picked up the oil and trans dipsticks today :D

The reason I'm so excited about this is, the only leak on the whole damn car is the dipstick tube at the block! I've tried EVERYTHING to stop this little irritation without success :( So I'm really hoping this might do the trick. I'll let ya know soon :_rock
DSCLocarOilTransBradedFlexTubes405.JPG
 

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