Schrade
Well-known member
The thread just went over 10,000 hits, the last 3,000 withOUT the pics (I managed to delete my pics off their servers after they banned me, and that was no easy task 
). Much obliged 
XSS is your friend!
Anyway, this is sort of what we had goin'... (sequence and text/pic syncin' might be off a little)
=======================================
Remove the entire assembly (motor separation next post, although pictured here):
Have ready a towel to put down the assembly!
Disconnect headlight power supply.
First remove the screws at the lower assembly - with yellow circle.
Then remove nuts numbered '1' - at both sides of headlight assembly.
Then loosen, BUT DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE, the '2' numbered nuts.
Get your free hand onto the headlight assembly, and apply pressure to keep the assembly in place. I had a boo-boo here (post 6)!!!
Then remove the two remaining nuts #2.
CAREFULLY, pull away the assembly.
================================
removal of motor from assembly:
loosen bolt 4, second pic
loosen bolt 2, first pic (ALSO GOOD PIC OF THIS BOLT ( in red circle) IN PIC 3)
you can then remove bolt 1 (it will not come out, until bolt '2' is loosened) and bolt 3, first pic, and the bolt shown in fourth pic, with a yellow circle, which is on the back side of the h/l motor.
then remove the roll pin in blue circle 3rd pic (and red circle first pic)
The roll pin (blue circle) was tough. I was afraid of manglin' it. I put the penetratin' lube on it, then put the vise grips on it gently and squeezed, so the pin would close a little, and allow the oil to get on the outside of the pin. Turn slowly, and work it - it is tight!!!
I didn't pull it all the way out either - above, first post, red circle.
===================================
Motor breakdown...
Step '2' here - when you lift off the cover, watch for 2 wafer-thin brass washers post 4, 3rd pic. There's a gasket here, which I replaced with a thin film of RTV silicone.
Step '3' here - I didn't do that part...
Step '4' here - see side note; disregard reference to post 24 and 11. Use caution SLOW - the double click is the two brushes on the armature being pushed out by the TINY springs. post 4, 1st pic, shows a brush spring.
Also watch the nylon gear shaft rotate, as the worm drive/armature is removed, like your distributor from the cam drive. Remember this at re-assembly. I don't know how many teeth you can 'miss' by, with no problems.
(EDIT: watch for a lone ball bearing to drop out from the end of the worm drive, when you pull it from the armature housing - see post 5, 2nd pic, to see the ball bearing).
If you're really dedicated, and want to hear sweet music when the repaired h/l works again, do this: re-grease the washer-type ball bearing inside the armature housing. Carefully remove the manual rotation knob from the shaft, and slowly remove the armature winding/shaft from the housing. Buried in there is the washer-bearing, and a few washers. See post 6 pic and not 'reeding', which holds knob onto shaft.
Continue steps 5 -12; see additional posts and pics for reference/tips. Step 7 here - the shaft is a very tight fit into the nylon gear with the new delrins. I just used hand pressure, no carving.
You'll have to do the fishing line trick to hold the brushes back in - pic 3, and 4, here.
=================================
More breakdown/re-assembly...
pic 3; a slight tap with the screwdriver handle will separate the nylon gear from the shaft.
==================================
At re-assembly, watch the lone ball bearing...
Put a dab of grease on the end of the drive, to hold the ball in place...
and remember to turn back the nylon gear from its removed position - it got pulled back by the worm drive, like your distributor off the cam drive.
=====================================
). Much obliged XSS is your friend!Anyway, this is sort of what we had goin'... (sequence and text/pic syncin' might be off a little)
=======================================
Remove the entire assembly (motor separation next post, although pictured here):
Have ready a towel to put down the assembly!
Disconnect headlight power supply.
First remove the screws at the lower assembly - with yellow circle.
Then remove nuts numbered '1' - at both sides of headlight assembly.
Then loosen, BUT DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE, the '2' numbered nuts.
Get your free hand onto the headlight assembly, and apply pressure to keep the assembly in place. I had a boo-boo here (post 6)!!!
Then remove the two remaining nuts #2.
CAREFULLY, pull away the assembly.
================================
removal of motor from assembly:
loosen bolt 4, second pic
loosen bolt 2, first pic (ALSO GOOD PIC OF THIS BOLT ( in red circle) IN PIC 3)
you can then remove bolt 1 (it will not come out, until bolt '2' is loosened) and bolt 3, first pic, and the bolt shown in fourth pic, with a yellow circle, which is on the back side of the h/l motor.
then remove the roll pin in blue circle 3rd pic (and red circle first pic)
The roll pin (blue circle) was tough. I was afraid of manglin' it. I put the penetratin' lube on it, then put the vise grips on it gently and squeezed, so the pin would close a little, and allow the oil to get on the outside of the pin. Turn slowly, and work it - it is tight!!!
I didn't pull it all the way out either - above, first post, red circle.
===================================
Motor breakdown...
Step '2' here - when you lift off the cover, watch for 2 wafer-thin brass washers post 4, 3rd pic. There's a gasket here, which I replaced with a thin film of RTV silicone.
Step '3' here - I didn't do that part...
Step '4' here - see side note; disregard reference to post 24 and 11. Use caution SLOW - the double click is the two brushes on the armature being pushed out by the TINY springs. post 4, 1st pic, shows a brush spring.
Also watch the nylon gear shaft rotate, as the worm drive/armature is removed, like your distributor from the cam drive. Remember this at re-assembly. I don't know how many teeth you can 'miss' by, with no problems.
(EDIT: watch for a lone ball bearing to drop out from the end of the worm drive, when you pull it from the armature housing - see post 5, 2nd pic, to see the ball bearing).
If you're really dedicated, and want to hear sweet music when the repaired h/l works again, do this: re-grease the washer-type ball bearing inside the armature housing. Carefully remove the manual rotation knob from the shaft, and slowly remove the armature winding/shaft from the housing. Buried in there is the washer-bearing, and a few washers. See post 6 pic and not 'reeding', which holds knob onto shaft.
Continue steps 5 -12; see additional posts and pics for reference/tips. Step 7 here - the shaft is a very tight fit into the nylon gear with the new delrins. I just used hand pressure, no carving.
You'll have to do the fishing line trick to hold the brushes back in - pic 3, and 4, here.
=================================
More breakdown/re-assembly...
pic 3; a slight tap with the screwdriver handle will separate the nylon gear from the shaft.
At re-assembly, watch the lone ball bearing...
Put a dab of grease on the end of the drive, to hold the ball in place...
and remember to turn back the nylon gear from its removed position - it got pulled back by the worm drive, like your distributor off the cam drive.
=====================================
)
ad
